I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
Wen generator...need oil recommendation
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Originally Posted By: BradleyB
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
These use Chinese engines for the most part. These engines ALWAYS recommend a 30 weight. Engine could be mounted on a mower, a pressure washer, a generator, a water pump, but the manual is generically written and 30 weight always recommended, even if its not the best recommendation. For your climate, 15W40 is what you want. Cheap, easy to find, robust, and durable. If you want a synthetic, then 5W40. 20W50 is a good choice for the summer as well.
And yes synthetic 10W30 offers better high temp protection than conventional SAE30.
Why the recommendation for a 40 weight over a 30 weight? In ideal conditions, they both will protect the engine. But hardly anyone, to include most bitogers, would treat a generator engine ideally. During a power outage, you would need to change the oil every 50 hours if no filter, or every 100 hours if it has a filter. Do the math. That's every 2 days without filter, or every 4 days with filter. How many people do you REALISTICALLY believe will change the oil every two days? And how many do you realistically think will check the oil every 8 hours, and top it off? Its too much of a hassle for most people. BITOG people included.
I was witness to the 2004 Florida hurricane season (4 hurricanes, no power for two months). Our free FEMA generator ran for something like 60 days. In Florida. In the summer. In was a pain in the neck to keep it maintained. EVERY one of my neighbors had generators. And everyone of them had blown up engines after about 10 days. If you drove around the neighborhood, there were hundreds of blown up generators on the curb. A thicker viscosity doesn't burn off as fast and provides a slightly better safety margin when proper maintenance isn't adhered to.
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
These use Chinese engines for the most part. These engines ALWAYS recommend a 30 weight. Engine could be mounted on a mower, a pressure washer, a generator, a water pump, but the manual is generically written and 30 weight always recommended, even if its not the best recommendation. For your climate, 15W40 is what you want. Cheap, easy to find, robust, and durable. If you want a synthetic, then 5W40. 20W50 is a good choice for the summer as well.
And yes synthetic 10W30 offers better high temp protection than conventional SAE30.
Why the recommendation for a 40 weight over a 30 weight? In ideal conditions, they both will protect the engine. But hardly anyone, to include most bitogers, would treat a generator engine ideally. During a power outage, you would need to change the oil every 50 hours if no filter, or every 100 hours if it has a filter. Do the math. That's every 2 days without filter, or every 4 days with filter. How many people do you REALISTICALLY believe will change the oil every two days? And how many do you realistically think will check the oil every 8 hours, and top it off? Its too much of a hassle for most people. BITOG people included.
I was witness to the 2004 Florida hurricane season (4 hurricanes, no power for two months). Our free FEMA generator ran for something like 60 days. In Florida. In the summer. In was a pain in the neck to keep it maintained. EVERY one of my neighbors had generators. And everyone of them had blown up engines after about 10 days. If you drove around the neighborhood, there were hundreds of blown up generators on the curb. A thicker viscosity doesn't burn off as fast and provides a slightly better safety margin when proper maintenance isn't adhered to.
Originally Posted By: BradleyB
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
Any oil that is MARKETED as a SAE30/10W30 synthetic, is exactly that. MARKETED. Its a 10W30 synthetic. Similar to all the other 10W30 synthetics on the shelf. Based on the cold flow properties of synthetic oils, its practically impossible to actually make a synthetic SAE30 oil.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
Any oil that is MARKETED as a SAE30/10W30 synthetic, is exactly that. MARKETED. Its a 10W30 synthetic. Similar to all the other 10W30 synthetics on the shelf. Based on the cold flow properties of synthetic oils, its practically impossible to actually make a synthetic SAE30 oil.
lol
i am not an amsoil fan boy, just a "marketed example" of a syn 30
sorry if i offended anyone
i am not an amsoil fan boy, just a "marketed example" of a syn 30
sorry if i offended anyone
I use T6 5 w 40 in my 5KW Briggs since I have had to run it in both summer and winter. It is splash lubricated and consumed a fair amount of 10 w 30. The T6 does not burn a noticeable amount. I was able to start the unit at 4 degrees F one winter with one pull on the cord.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: BradleyB
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
These use Chinese engines for the most part. These engines ALWAYS recommend a 30 weight. Engine could be mounted on a mower, a pressure washer, a generator, a water pump, but the manual is generically written and 30 weight always recommended, even if its not the best recommendation. For your climate, 15W40 is what you want. Cheap, easy to find, robust, and durable. If you want a synthetic, then 5W40. 20W50 is a good choice for the summer as well.
And yes synthetic 10W30 offers better high temp protection than conventional SAE30.
Why the recommendation for a 40 weight over a 30 weight? In ideal conditions, they both will protect the engine. But hardly anyone, to include most bitogers, would treat a generator engine ideally. During a power outage, you would need to change the oil every 50 hours if no filter, or every 100 hours if it has a filter. Do the math. That's every 2 days without filter, or every 4 days with filter. How many people do you REALISTICALLY believe will change the oil every two days? And how many do you realistically think will check the oil every 8 hours, and top it off? Its too much of a hassle for most people. BITOG people included.
I was witness to the 2004 Florida hurricane season (4 hurricanes, no power for two months). Our free FEMA generator ran for something like 60 days. In Florida. In the summer. In was a pain in the neck to keep it maintained. EVERY one of my neighbors had generators. And everyone of them had blown up engines after about 10 days. If you drove around the neighborhood, there were hundreds of blown up generators on the curb. A thicker viscosity doesn't burn off as fast and provides a slightly better safety margin when proper maintenance isn't adhered to.
Sorry, couldn't let this one slip by, "free FEMA" generator, or tax payer provided generator. Yes most , if not all Floridians are tax payers, but what a waste when people get something for nothing... sorry, rant over
Originally Posted By: BradleyB
I just purchased a Wen generator (air cooled) and was wanting to get a suggested oil for it. In the manual, it recommends a "good" 30 wt. oil but also says that a synthetic 10W30 can be used also. If you look at the temperature chart in the literature, it really suggest a 30 wt. oil. My problem is that I would like to go the synthetic route because of all the positive results that I have had with my cars and other four cylinder engines. To my knowledge, there is not any 30 wt. synthetic oils out there. I am wondering why a synthetic 10W30 would not do as well or better than a straight 30 wt. oil since it becomes 30 wt. when the engine heats up and is thin (10 wt.) when the engine first cranks. In other words, why does a synthetic 10W30 oil not offer as high temperature protection as straight 30 wt. in an air cooled engine.
These use Chinese engines for the most part. These engines ALWAYS recommend a 30 weight. Engine could be mounted on a mower, a pressure washer, a generator, a water pump, but the manual is generically written and 30 weight always recommended, even if its not the best recommendation. For your climate, 15W40 is what you want. Cheap, easy to find, robust, and durable. If you want a synthetic, then 5W40. 20W50 is a good choice for the summer as well.
And yes synthetic 10W30 offers better high temp protection than conventional SAE30.
Why the recommendation for a 40 weight over a 30 weight? In ideal conditions, they both will protect the engine. But hardly anyone, to include most bitogers, would treat a generator engine ideally. During a power outage, you would need to change the oil every 50 hours if no filter, or every 100 hours if it has a filter. Do the math. That's every 2 days without filter, or every 4 days with filter. How many people do you REALISTICALLY believe will change the oil every two days? And how many do you realistically think will check the oil every 8 hours, and top it off? Its too much of a hassle for most people. BITOG people included.
I was witness to the 2004 Florida hurricane season (4 hurricanes, no power for two months). Our free FEMA generator ran for something like 60 days. In Florida. In the summer. In was a pain in the neck to keep it maintained. EVERY one of my neighbors had generators. And everyone of them had blown up engines after about 10 days. If you drove around the neighborhood, there were hundreds of blown up generators on the curb. A thicker viscosity doesn't burn off as fast and provides a slightly better safety margin when proper maintenance isn't adhered to.
Sorry, couldn't let this one slip by, "free FEMA" generator, or tax payer provided generator. Yes most , if not all Floridians are tax payers, but what a waste when people get something for nothing... sorry, rant over
I would not go synthetic. This motor will sit for long periods. Real synthetics can exhibit drain-off. That is the residual oil film will be less robust. It has to do with the inherent lower surface tension of most real synthetics. Part of the chemistry that makes them multi-grade w/o VII's also makes them less able to maintain capillary fill when left undisturbed for long periods.
I'd go good old dino HDEO which are available in 10W-30 and will maintain a robust thick film for when you fire it up after sitting for a few weeks
But if you really want to - Red Line makes a fine 30 real synthetic
Delo 100 SAE 30 HD is a good single grade oil that will work well too
I'd go good old dino HDEO which are available in 10W-30 and will maintain a robust thick film for when you fire it up after sitting for a few weeks
But if you really want to - Red Line makes a fine 30 real synthetic
Delo 100 SAE 30 HD is a good single grade oil that will work well too
4WD
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Pennzoil Gold 10w30 is a top shelf semi synthetic ...
I'm using Magnatec 10w30 semi in OPE - another meant to address the run off issue
I'm using Magnatec 10w30 semi in OPE - another meant to address the run off issue
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I use German Castrol 0W-30 in my WEN 2kw inverter gen. 350mL, IIRC. Not enough to worry about cost, to be honest.
I use a small syringe to add the exact amount.
I use a small syringe to add the exact amount.
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