I think i found the noise.. Beater brake job

[Kruse]

I've found RockAuto to be an excellent source for brake parts and if you get everything from closeout, it almost always ships from the same warehouse.
The last brake job I did was on a mid-90s Ford F250 and I got my rotors from RockAuto. These were American-made Wagner rotors that had much more weight to them than the current Chinese listings from O'Reilly.

 

[eljefino]

If your caliper sticks you'll boil the brake fluid and have no brakes. Probably ought to pay a little attention to this.

 

[pandus13]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Did you find anything sticky in the pins/ hardware on the troubled side?

guilty as charged:
AKA:
- how to run pedal to the metal all the time
- how to waste a new pads set in 3k miles
vehicle: my sold 2004 Elantra base.
so clean rust and lube any guide/slide pins!

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Maybe the most important thing with brake jobs, besides making sure the caliper brackets are bolted on tight, is to make sure that the caliper sliders are lubed well and move freely. It makes a huge difference!


I got quite a bit of rust off the caliper brackets with a wire brush.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
I am sure glad that neglected vehicle never was approaching me from the rear while waiting at a light.Whatever happened to periodic inspections when rotating tires?? Brakes in that condition don't happen overnight.Amazing that rotor on the right didn't collapse.



Don't worry I learned a long time ago not to follow closely behind those Ohio drivers.

 

[Vikas]

Quote:
Amazing that rotor on the right didn't collapse.
Why would it collapse?

 

[901Memphis]

By the way I just wanted to add that this is strictly a work car, it goes about 3 miles each way on 35-45 MPH roads with two stop lights so my brakes are hardly used under normal conditions especially if I make the green lights.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
By the way I just wanted to add that this is strictly a work car, it goes about 3 miles each way on 35-45 MPH roads with two stop lights so my brakes are hardly used under normal conditions especially if I make the green lights.


Beater work cars cripple and kill other drivers too when they can't stop properly due to poor maintenance. No need to make excuses.

 

[Olas]

I recently put new discs and pads on the Scirocco - its an easy and satisfying job which makes the car feel a lot safer to drive.
The important points have already been covered, wire brush the brackets, lube the slide pins and make sure everything's tight, and (assuming the fluid is good) you're golden

 

[exranger06]

I changed pads and rotors on my Ranger about 4 months/2k miles ago. The other day my driver's side caliper seized and toasted my brand new, expensive, fancy Hawk HPS pads

. In my case, there wasn't anything I could've done to prevent that, as the caliper showed no signs of trouble until it seized all of a sudden. You on the other hand, have no excuse to not change the caliper.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: copcarguy
I recently did a front brake job on my '97 Tracer wagon with all RockAuto closeouts: The rotors are UltraRotor part #6131 which I got for $11.21 each, and the pads are "Wagner" 1M7353 I scored for $5.29. The pads are "premium, non-asbestos, semi-metallic, lifetime warranty" and came in a "Big A" brand box made by Wagner. I googled them and from what I can tell they went out of business in 1998 or something. SO much for the warranty lol




At over 240K miles, I still have the original rotors on my 1995 Escort.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Olas
I recently put new discs and pads on the Scirocco - its an easy and satisfying job which makes the car feel a lot safer to drive.
The important points have already been covered, wire brush the brackets, lube the slide pins and make sure everything's tight, and (assuming the fluid is good) you're golden

Or you're not.

Calipers can and do seize internally due to corrosion of the piston and/or its bore, but they can be stripped and cleaned.

I did this as preventative maintenance after the other side had seized, and it needed to be done.

I'd now consider this as a routine precaution on an old and/or neglected vehicle.

 

[Dadillac]

There are two systems on a car that should NEVER be half assed. Steering and brakes. A failure on any car system will leave you stranded. But a failure in the braking and steering systems can be deadly. Looking at the OP's pictures there is at least one caliper that is sticking or seized. Without addressing that problem the new brake pads and rotor on that side will have a very short life span. Better to take care of it now instead of having a potential major issue in the future. It may be as simple as replacing the slide pins. Or a rebuilt caliper is in order. But again a brake system failure can have a deadly outcome. And it may not be your (OP) life that is lost or changed forever

Don

 

[Nick1994]

Lol all these people nagging on you for your brakes. It's just a little sticky caliper. If you aren't driving this thing on the freeway and need to stop from 80-0 in a hurry, you're probably fine.

901Memphis knows his car better than we do, and if he's confident in it's ability to stop in a low speed situation, then that's all that matters.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Lol all these people nagging on you for your brakes. It's just a little sticky caliper. If you aren't driving this thing on the freeway and need to stop from 80-0 in a hurry, you're probably fine.

901Memphis knows his car better than we do, and if he's confident in it's ability to stop in a low speed situation, then that's all that matters.


Phooey.

I don't know 901Memphis, so I go by what he's posted. His confidence level is not all that matters. It will have no influence on the laws of physics.

If you post stuff on a public forum, you take what you get.

 

[KrisZ]

I would consider that a lot of "pro" mechanics, that includes dealerships as well, do a sub-par job on brake systems because cleaning, lubing and checking runout takes too much time. I think OP will be fine, no need for drama.

 

[Jetronic]

Besides checking runout, cleaning and lubing is almost standard practice at every service here. That's because on average the hyundais don't make it till the second service (20k miles) before something is seized in the brake systems. Mitsubishis generally don't need any extra attention until over 100k miles.

Even with a seized caliper pin (or a few) the braking effort can be very acceptable when judged on the brake rollers but the fall out we get if someone has worn brakes between services isn't worth it. Even then, hand brake cables can seize whenever they feel like it.

 

[ryansride2017]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
I bet the caliper needs rebuilding or replaced.


Bingo. Did the caliper carriage move freely when you put the new pads on? How easily did the piston push back into the caliper? You didn't correct any problems, you just threw new parts on. I'm sure it now does stop quickly....for a little while until you hear the original noise again.