2016 Honda CRV - Oil Consumption
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Originally Posted By: KL31
Pretty sure they don't say 1qt per 1000 is "normal" but rather "acceptable".
Absolutely correct, good point! Big difference. Sloppy use of terms, I used myself in the post.
I will ask and I truly don't know. I never had a vehicle that burned 1 quart of oil in 1000 miles. It was my understanding that Zn compounds in oil additives were lowered by 30% (API SM to SN), at least partly to minimize poisoning catalytic converters.
How long would it take to render a catalytic converter ineffective at a burn rate of 1 quart per 1000 miles? Not looking for an exact number but a "general" range like 25K, 50K, 75K miles, etc. or the body will rust out before your likely to throw a code and have to re
place the converter.
Pretty sure they don't say 1qt per 1000 is "normal" but rather "acceptable".
Absolutely correct, good point! Big difference. Sloppy use of terms, I used myself in the post.
I will ask and I truly don't know. I never had a vehicle that burned 1 quart of oil in 1000 miles. It was my understanding that Zn compounds in oil additives were lowered by 30% (API SM to SN), at least partly to minimize poisoning catalytic converters.
How long would it take to render a catalytic converter ineffective at a burn rate of 1 quart per 1000 miles? Not looking for an exact number but a "general" range like 25K, 50K, 75K miles, etc. or the body will rust out before your likely to throw a code and have to re
place the converter.
LOL, the 1 qt/1000 is the "standard" Honda created during their defense (and eventual settlement) of the VCM class action lawsuit. You are correct to be upset because it is not "normal" no matter how much Honda and their puppet dealers claim it to be. Do not be afraid to experiment with different oils. M1 0W oils have reduced wear protection additives to achieve lower cold temp viscosities. I've had AFE 0W-30 burn off 1/5000 in my V8 truck during winter usage.
Thank You Guys for all your good advice here;
On the car; I did first our oil change at 5K, just for sake of following oil change precisely and religiously; I've had breaking in driving period as stated in the manual up to 600 - 1K; I drive it about 20% while my wife the rest; we do not rev it up high nor win any the drag races on the road; I think we are easy on the car; the first oil change I had OLM at 40%, right now is the same, it sits at 40% with almost 10K; I am also aware of gas dilution in DI engines so I'd rather have oil change at 5K than at 7-8K
Living in Georgia and car sits in Garage, we're 30-40 old if that matters.
I'll follow your advice of trying different oil brands with 0w-20 viscosity...
On the car; I did first our oil change at 5K, just for sake of following oil change precisely and religiously; I've had breaking in driving period as stated in the manual up to 600 - 1K; I drive it about 20% while my wife the rest; we do not rev it up high nor win any the drag races on the road; I think we are easy on the car; the first oil change I had OLM at 40%, right now is the same, it sits at 40% with almost 10K; I am also aware of gas dilution in DI engines so I'd rather have oil change at 5K than at 7-8K
Living in Georgia and car sits in Garage, we're 30-40 old if that matters.
I'll follow your advice of trying different oil brands with 0w-20 viscosity...
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Yeah, my suggestion would be, change to another brand of oil.
An engine should be able to run the maximum oil change interval without adding oil. I never had an engine that used over 1/3 quart in a 6K oil change at 100,000 miles. My present MAZDA CX5 uses possibly several OZ during a 6,000 mile oil change. I thought the manufacture who had a production run, where piston rings were installed upside down generated the 1K miles per quart nonsense. Ed
In my opinion 1qt per 5000 miles is not that bad. I would monitor it though and if it gets worse, I would contact Honda dealer and document it. These engines are known to consume oil and that 1qt/5k miles can stay steady for the next 200k miles. Let's not panic just yet.
Originally Posted By: miden851
Thank You Guys for all your good advice here;
On the car; I did first our oil change at 5K, just for sake of following oil change precisely and religiously; I've had breaking in driving period as stated in the manual up to 600 - 1K; I drive it about 20% while my wife the rest; we do not rev it up high nor win any the drag races on the road; I think we are easy on the car; the first oil change I had OLM at 40%, right now is the same, it sits at 40% with almost 10K; I am also aware of gas dilution in DI engines so I'd rather have oil change at 5K than at 7-8K
Living in Georgia and car sits in Garage, we're 30-40 old if that matters.
I'll follow your advice of trying different oil brands with 0w-20 viscosity...
I think you SHOULD rev it up high when you get the chance. Not saying you need to be a hooligan or anything, but think of it as 'exercise' for the engine and it may help to get that oil consumption under control.
Thank You Guys for all your good advice here;
On the car; I did first our oil change at 5K, just for sake of following oil change precisely and religiously; I've had breaking in driving period as stated in the manual up to 600 - 1K; I drive it about 20% while my wife the rest; we do not rev it up high nor win any the drag races on the road; I think we are easy on the car; the first oil change I had OLM at 40%, right now is the same, it sits at 40% with almost 10K; I am also aware of gas dilution in DI engines so I'd rather have oil change at 5K than at 7-8K
Living in Georgia and car sits in Garage, we're 30-40 old if that matters.
I'll follow your advice of trying different oil brands with 0w-20 viscosity...
I think you SHOULD rev it up high when you get the chance. Not saying you need to be a hooligan or anything, but think of it as 'exercise' for the engine and it may help to get that oil consumption under control.
I'm at 243k on my 2005 CR-V. It uses a quart every 7k. It used to not use any until about 180k. I am OK with this, with the miles on it. PP 5w20 burns the least. I'm keeping it forever.
On the flip side, I'm going with Toyota next. Honda's overall reliability has dipped.
On the flip side, I'm going with Toyota next. Honda's overall reliability has dipped.
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It could be a Jeep with the 3.8L engine where chrysler says 650 is normal ...
OK I am taking all advice here, I will be flooring it too...
Next oil change I'll do M1 EP oil then Castrol, Valvoline, etc. along with Ultra Synthetic Frame oil filter, and definitely I will be topping off to the upper mark at the dipstick.
My whole post was about if it consumes now as brand new how it is going to be at 200-250K because we plan to hold on it for a long haul...
Next oil change I'll do M1 EP oil then Castrol, Valvoline, etc. along with Ultra Synthetic Frame oil filter, and definitely I will be topping off to the upper mark at the dipstick.
My whole post was about if it consumes now as brand new how it is going to be at 200-250K because we plan to hold on it for a long haul...
I have the k24 in my civic si(non-DI motor)and it used a bit when new but tapered off around 10k miles and I "may" use a 1/4 to 1/2 quart during a 8-10k OCI at this point and I'm okay with that. Personally I would jump up to a 30 weight and your consumption will most likely be less or non-existent. The other option would be as others have stated try a 5/20 or another brand to see if the consumption rate changes.
Also using the gas pedal a bit more to break things in would help also.
Also using the gas pedal a bit more to break things in would help also.
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My last vehicle, a F-150 with the 5.4 would use a quart between oil changes. I changed at 5000 miles faithfully over the life of the truck. At around 3000 miles a quart would go in. I knew others with the same type of truck where they would use no oil between changes. Thankfully never had to add oil to the Pilot I have now, and my first oil change was around 7200 miles when the OLM was down to 10%. I drove Ford trucks for years and never owned one where I did not need to add oil between changes.
This is taken directly from the Honda service bulletin for the oil consumption problem on the K motor:
Quote:
Specific engine operating conditions may create carbon deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead
to increased oil consumption when all of the following conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and
prolonged basis:
The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating temperature)
Hard acceleration
The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of particulates
All of these conditions happening at the same time are rare, but if they do occur, deposits may
accumulate over years of driving under these conditions. If the oil control rings begin to stick because of
the deposits, the client may subsequently complain about excessive oil consumption
Basically, use Top Tier fuel only, and drive it gently until the oil is fully warmed up.
Also, letting your car idle to "warm up" is one the worst things you can do. Start, idle for 10-20s, then start driving gently.
Quote:
Specific engine operating conditions may create carbon deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead
to increased oil consumption when all of the following conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and
prolonged basis:
The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating temperature)
Hard acceleration
The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of particulates
All of these conditions happening at the same time are rare, but if they do occur, deposits may
accumulate over years of driving under these conditions. If the oil control rings begin to stick because of
the deposits, the client may subsequently complain about excessive oil consumption
Basically, use Top Tier fuel only, and drive it gently until the oil is fully warmed up.
Also, letting your car idle to "warm up" is one the worst things you can do. Start, idle for 10-20s, then start driving gently.
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Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
This is taken directly from the Honda service bulletin for the oil consumption problem on the K motor:
Quote:
Specific engine operating conditions may create carbon deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead
to increased oil consumption when all of the following conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and
prolonged basis:
The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating temperature)
Hard acceleration
The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of particulates
All of these conditions happening at the same time are rare, but if they do occur, deposits may
accumulate over years of driving under these conditions. If the oil control rings begin to stick because of
the deposits, the client may subsequently complain about excessive oil consumption
Basically, use Top Tier fuel only, and drive it gently until the oil is fully warmed up.
Also, letting your car idle to "warm up" is one the worst things you can do. Start, idle for 10-20s, then start driving gently.
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
This is taken directly from the Honda service bulletin for the oil consumption problem on the K motor:
Quote:
Specific engine operating conditions may create carbon deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead
to increased oil consumption when all of the following conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and
prolonged basis:
The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating temperature)
Hard acceleration
The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of particulates
All of these conditions happening at the same time are rare, but if they do occur, deposits may
accumulate over years of driving under these conditions. If the oil control rings begin to stick because of
the deposits, the client may subsequently complain about excessive oil consumption
Basically, use Top Tier fuel only, and drive it gently until the oil is fully warmed up.
Also, letting your car idle to "warm up" is one the worst things you can do. Start, idle for 10-20s, then start driving gently.
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
Originally Posted By: Swifty
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
An engine is an engine.
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
An engine is an engine.
It sounds like you and your wife drive this car with a somewhat light foot. Nothing wrong with that, I consider it sensible driving. You didn't mention your drive routine, highway versus city percentage.
These small TGDI engines want to get out and run. That doesn't mean racing it but get it out on the freeway and let it stretch its legs so to speak.
These small TGDI engines want to get out and run. That doesn't mean racing it but get it out on the freeway and let it stretch its legs so to speak.
M1 EP DOUBLED the consumption in my wifes Forester. Going back to Valvoline or Peak 0w20 brought it back to a "normal" (for a Subaru 2.5) 1 & 1/2 qts per oci. Valvoline 0w20 is the best Ive tried out of ALL of them for good fuel mileage, low deposits, low incidence of sticking TCT, smooth operation.
Ill bet Castrol Magnatec 5w20 "syn" is a winner too.
Ill bet Castrol Magnatec 5w20 "syn" is a winner too.
Yes I'd say we are treating it "softly". Again, we use garage, metro Atlanta weather along with flat roads around here... also we don't idle the car.
We use Costco gasoline 80% and Quick Trip another 20%; the same goes for our commute, it is about 80/20 city/hwy drive
We use Costco gasoline 80% and Quick Trip another 20%; the same goes for our commute, it is about 80/20 city/hwy drive
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: Swifty
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
An engine is an engine.
Yeah okay...lol
k24 has been around for a long time and there have been changes over the years.
Originally Posted By: Swifty
I thought that issue was on the 2008-2011 accords and 2010 and 2011 k24 equipped CRV's. After 2012 it was a thing of the past unless they extended this to later model years. OP's car is a 2016 CRV.
There were a couple of TSB's 12-087 and 12-089 one extended the warranties out to 8 years.
An engine is an engine.
Yeah okay...lol
k24 has been around for a long time and there have been changes over the years.
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