Contemplating purchasing a 1 owner Jeep Liberty 3.7 4x4. It's got 157k on the clock, new brakes and tires. The owner is asking 2500 obo. How reliable are the 3.7's? Anything I need to watch out for in terms of maintenance or known problems with the Liberty? Any help is appreciated.
2003 Jeep Liberty
- Thread starter will1780
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Dont let it overheat. If they get hot the valve seats will fall out and destroy the engine.
My concern would be the automatic transmission with those miles on the clock. They were the weak link in the Liberty.
Agreed, auto trans is the main concern. Mom was original owner on an '04. Minimal maintenance, went about 150k through her and me for about 1 year. Sold it on but learned the trans took a dump soon after. That said, my understanding that it is a highly available trans and if you shop around a rebuilt trans before labor can be circa $1000. That all said, I really didn't like driving it. Fairly bouncy truck like ride and a bit nervous handling, which I attribute to a pretty tight wheelbase.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My concern would be the automatic transmission with those miles on the clock. They were the weak link in the Liberty.
The 2002 and early 2003 3.7L Liberty used the 45RFE transmission which is a very good unit. Sometime during 2003 (around April or May) they switched to the lighter duty 42RLE which is a rear drive version of the 4 speed "Ultradrive" transmission used in the minivans until the much better 6 speed 62TE came out.
Here are a few ways to tell if it has the much more desirable 45RFE:
Open the hood, look on the passenger side fender. If there is a computer mounted on the fender (silver box, with a bunch of wires coming out of it, white sticker attached) you have the 45RFE. If this computer (Transmission Control Module) is absent, you have the 42RLE.
If the transmission cross-member is bent toward the rear of the Jeep, it is the 45RFE. If it is straight then it is the 42RLE.
If the build date is before April 2003 then you probably have the 45RFE.
Andrew S.
My concern would be the automatic transmission with those miles on the clock. They were the weak link in the Liberty.
The 2002 and early 2003 3.7L Liberty used the 45RFE transmission which is a very good unit. Sometime during 2003 (around April or May) they switched to the lighter duty 42RLE which is a rear drive version of the 4 speed "Ultradrive" transmission used in the minivans until the much better 6 speed 62TE came out.
Here are a few ways to tell if it has the much more desirable 45RFE:
Open the hood, look on the passenger side fender. If there is a computer mounted on the fender (silver box, with a bunch of wires coming out of it, white sticker attached) you have the 45RFE. If this computer (Transmission Control Module) is absent, you have the 42RLE.
If the transmission cross-member is bent toward the rear of the Jeep, it is the 45RFE. If it is straight then it is the 42RLE.
If the build date is before April 2003 then you probably have the 45RFE.
Andrew S.
Originally Posted By: dnastrau
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My concern would be the automatic transmission with those miles on the clock. They were the weak link in the Liberty.
The 2002 and early 2003 3.7L Liberty used the 45RFE transmission which is a very good unit. Sometime during 2003 (around April or May) they switched to the lighter duty 42RLE which is a rear drive version of the 4 speed "Ultradrive" transmission used in the minivans until the much better 6 speed 62TE came out.
Here are a few ways to tell if it has the much more desirable 45RFE:
Open the hood, look on the passenger side fender. If there is a computer mounted on the fender (silver box, with a bunch of wires coming out of it, white sticker attached) you have the 45RFE. If this computer (Transmission Control Module) is absent, you have the 42RLE.
If the transmission cross-member is bent toward the rear of the Jeep, it is the 45RFE. If it is straight then it is the 42RLE.
If the build date is before April 2003 then you probably have the 45RFE.
Andrew S.
Good points. The OP should check, the transmission could easily haunt him because of the miles on the vehicle.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My concern would be the automatic transmission with those miles on the clock. They were the weak link in the Liberty.
The 2002 and early 2003 3.7L Liberty used the 45RFE transmission which is a very good unit. Sometime during 2003 (around April or May) they switched to the lighter duty 42RLE which is a rear drive version of the 4 speed "Ultradrive" transmission used in the minivans until the much better 6 speed 62TE came out.
Here are a few ways to tell if it has the much more desirable 45RFE:
Open the hood, look on the passenger side fender. If there is a computer mounted on the fender (silver box, with a bunch of wires coming out of it, white sticker attached) you have the 45RFE. If this computer (Transmission Control Module) is absent, you have the 42RLE.
If the transmission cross-member is bent toward the rear of the Jeep, it is the 45RFE. If it is straight then it is the 42RLE.
If the build date is before April 2003 then you probably have the 45RFE.
Andrew S.
Good points. The OP should check, the transmission could easily haunt him because of the miles on the vehicle.
^^^^Good tips. Check out JeepKJ forum, good source for all things Liberty.
I've had my 05 since 07, got it with 36k on it. As stated, the 42RLE is kind of weak. Got mine rebuilt at 155k. At 163k now. They ride so much better with a proper full spring lift. I was getting ready to trade mine in because of the poor ride, lifted it with OME springs, OME rear shocks, Bilstein front and it rides as nicely as my LR3 and better than my new Cherokee. Handles great too.
Other things to check:
-Make sure it has HOAT coolant in it. If unsure, get it flushed.
-Other than the springs and shocks, the suspension is pretty solid. Just the usual stuff, but at 163k, I'm on my original LCAs up front. UCAs have been replaced with special ones for lifted Liberties. Rear, there was a LCA recall and my UCA back there is the factory one.
-Check for rust by the 3rd brake light
-Do the key trick to check for codes... do off-on (not start)-off-on-off-on and any P codes will come up in the odo.
-Check the CV boot on the tcase end of the front driveshaft. If it hasn't been replaced, it's probably torn. $50 part and easy to swap out. But use it as "garbage on the lawn"
- Likely will leaking oil, comes from front main crank seal and oil pressure sending unit
They're fun vehicles. Love mine. They're safe, great off road and in the snow, and with some suspension upgrades, ride and handle great. Easy to work on and lots of DIY info around.
I've had my 05 since 07, got it with 36k on it. As stated, the 42RLE is kind of weak. Got mine rebuilt at 155k. At 163k now. They ride so much better with a proper full spring lift. I was getting ready to trade mine in because of the poor ride, lifted it with OME springs, OME rear shocks, Bilstein front and it rides as nicely as my LR3 and better than my new Cherokee. Handles great too.
Other things to check:
-Make sure it has HOAT coolant in it. If unsure, get it flushed.
-Other than the springs and shocks, the suspension is pretty solid. Just the usual stuff, but at 163k, I'm on my original LCAs up front. UCAs have been replaced with special ones for lifted Liberties. Rear, there was a LCA recall and my UCA back there is the factory one.
-Check for rust by the 3rd brake light
-Do the key trick to check for codes... do off-on (not start)-off-on-off-on and any P codes will come up in the odo.
-Check the CV boot on the tcase end of the front driveshaft. If it hasn't been replaced, it's probably torn. $50 part and easy to swap out. But use it as "garbage on the lawn"
- Likely will leaking oil, comes from front main crank seal and oil pressure sending unit
They're fun vehicles. Love mine. They're safe, great off road and in the snow, and with some suspension upgrades, ride and handle great. Easy to work on and lots of DIY info around.
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^^ They are super easy to work on!!!! We have an 08, and love it.
5W30 works best. 07+ got spec'd for 5w20, but nothing changed mechanically, so then I'd run 5W30 too, did so with my 09 WK with the 3.7. As far as brands, they're not picky at all. Mine seems to like Fram TG filters over Purolators...no start up rattle with the Frams.
I'd only do 6-7k with synthetic. These engines get some condensation built up in them pretty bad (take a look at the oil fill tube...it'll look like it has mayo on it), but that's normal for them. Because of that, I like to run about 4k give or take. Currently using Maxlife blend.
I'd only do 6-7k with synthetic. These engines get some condensation built up in them pretty bad (take a look at the oil fill tube...it'll look like it has mayo on it), but that's normal for them. Because of that, I like to run about 4k give or take. Currently using Maxlife blend.
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