Redi/speedi sleeve

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These are used to repair damaged and seal-grooved shafts. I don't know what I'll find when I take the diff yoke off, but went ahead and ordered one anyway. Even if the surface is smooth, I like the idea of slightly increasing shaft size to get a bit tighter seal fit.

They're relatively expensive $30. I just found knockoffs called sturdi sleeve for around $10.
 
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Yep they even make them for power steering pump shafts where they commonly leak. On a GM product all work can be done on vehicle.
 
I've used them quite a few times.
The only drawback that I've seen is that sometimes a size that you need is not available.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
plz post follow up. I was taught to drive the seal in a tad further so it wouldn't rub in the groove.


I've done that several times. However, some situations won't allow it.
 
Originally Posted By: cmhj
Originally Posted By: andyd
plz post follow up. I was taught to drive the seal in a tad further so it wouldn't rub in the groove.


I've done that several times. However, some situations won't allow it.


On the transmission rear seal I stopped before it bottomed so its riding on a different spot on the yoke. I also replaced the bearing/bushing using a nifty puller that worked like a charm, about a minute to get it out. I've discussed this here before and a worn bushing is theorized to be responsible for most of the transmission leak. I also got a cheap used yoke as the yoke is a bit worn. Another thing I've found is a seal 473452 that is a few thousands tighter than the 472572 that i can try later if it still leaks. It helps to get the national seal catalog to attempt these things.

These leaks are so bad the transmission and diff will almost completely empty of oil if I don't constantly add.
 
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The yoke was shiny where the seal mated against it but there was no wear, so I didn't use the sleeve. The inside of the yoke at the pinion nut was wet with oil so I think it was actually leaking through the splines not at the seal. I used some oil resistant locktite sealer on the splines and under the washer to hopefully solve it.

The pinion nut came off too easy, like it wasn't torqued properly. I torqued it to 100 foot pounds and the align chisel marks I made showed approx 1/8 turn tighter than where it was. There were rubbing marks on the bearing and end of the yoke like it was slipping. So hopefully fully torquing it will solve that. I checked for excessive preload by turning the yoke by hand easily.

On the transmission end, I removed the stock size seal that I had just replaced and used one that was 20 thousands smaller to compensate for a worn transmission yoke. The used yoke I bought is too big at the u joint and hits the tunnel.

We'll see how it all works out next week when I hit the bass pro car show at foxboro, about a 120 mi round trip.

I also have a clear polycarbonate diff cover I'm going to put on soon to make it easy to monitor oil level.
 
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Speedi-Sleeves are made by SKF...should come in a green SKF box. NAPA carries them.

I bought one for my 2002 Ranger just in case when I had the pinion seal replaced. It didn't need the sleeve, but I kept it since it fits both my trucks.
 
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