pre applying penetrants

[mjoekingz28]

When I saw the top of my can of Kroil (the non aerosol can) getting rust it made me think that the Kroil is actually causing rust. Maybe from a small trickle that gets left in the crevices on the top of the can after I use the can to apply it to a bolt or whatever.

This has me wondering if the penetrant is bad in the long run. You see, everytime I am detailing/restoring/cleaning the underbody/underhood of a car and see a bolt, I usually like to put a drop or two of penetrant (liquid wrench, pb blaster, kroil, wd-40) on it so when I do go to remove it there will far less likely to be drama. That opposed to hitting it the night before or the day of.

Should I just be using a drop of oil, 3-in-1, or something else to do this? I mean, I don't want to etch the bolt, nut, or screw or rot it out, oxidize it, or ruin it somehow.

I generally like to wipe the bolt hold clean and drop a few drops of penetrant when the bolt flange/washer meets the surface so it will be 'better' off and be a healthier/stronger faster that will be reluctant to be stubborn during future removal.




So, basically, is there anything better to do to a bolt than to just hitting it with penetrant the day before removal and tapping it lightly with a hammer? I'm not talking power tools or torches. Just oils, chemicals and hand tools.

Good day!

 

[SHOZ]

Fluid Film? I sprayed some on my subframe where it was rusting last fall and it's still there somewhat.

 

[Trav]

IMO you are correct. It seems the penetrant evaporates after a time leaving any dissolved rust to redeposit itself, I don't believe it makes much of an anti seize material.
Using them to remove a stuck fastener is fine just clean the bolt hole and bolt threads with brake cleaner once the bolt/nut is removed then apply never seize.

 

[dlundblad]

Various penetrating fluids have been used for years without any ill effects. I personally think you can carry on worry free.

 

[SHOZ]

I use WD40 to waterproof my yard shoes.....

 

[Trav]

For bolts/nuts already installed try this, its low strength and wicks under the bolt head sealing the threads and preventing corrosion.

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/green-threadlockers-pre-assembled-wicking-13227.htm

 

[JamesBond]

I use penetrant if I'm going to be taking something apart within the week, for longer term preventative use I use oil, sometimes topped with a spritz of spray grease.

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Fluid Film? I sprayed some on my subframe where it was rusting last fall and it's still there somewhat.


I've been using this since I picked up a bunch from Advance during their $5 off a $5 purchase a few years ago. It works well and doesn't have anything that evaporates. It's mainly lanolin.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Originally Posted By: JamesBond
I use penetrant if I'm going to be taking something apart within the week, for longer term preventative use I use oil, sometimes topped with a spritz of spray grease.



I think this is the only response to the OP.

Motor oil sounds good. I think I will try to use ND30 since I think it has been said the additives are really only good for inside engines.

I was REALLY wanting some Redline 2wt oil since it was so thin- but you have to order it by the gallon I think. I can probably get by with oil, grease, and kerosene. I will probably try to quit using penetrating oils until it nears time to remove a long-time or stubborn fastener.


Thanks for the help

 

[buck91]

For the OP's intent I usually use one of three things, in order of my preference.

1. Fluid Film, aerosol. - Reasonable "staying power" and the aerosol seems to wick quicker and better.
2. Silikroil - Best penetrating oil I've ever used. I figure the silicone might offer a little bit of longer lasting protection but this is theory only.
3. Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil - My second favorite penetrating oil. Not as good as Silikroil but I theorize the ceramic/teflon solids might offer some....or no... benefit.

Nothing beats pre-dressing a fastener with antisieze.

 

[JHZR2]

OP,

So you're implying that surface rust on a kroil steel can implies that somehow penetrant accelerate rust? Ok, so what's the mechanism for that to happen??

I could see a penetrant stripping a different protective coating. But I can also see some of the remnant oils being better than nothing.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Thanks for your response and inquiry JHZR2.

I just checked and scrubbed the 'rust' with a soft brush and wiped with a paper towel and it removed. So I guess it was just gum or tar or something all along.

Sure puts me at ease a little better as when I work so hard at preserving something it pains me to cause even a minute amount of damage in the process. Counter productivity is terrible! Ya know?

 

[mjoekingz28]

May have been my first sighting of varnish.