Corrosion on wheel studs

[willbur]

Originally Posted By: maximus
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs. They should be clean and dry.

A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.


Really? My Porsche owners manual says to put antiseize paste on the threads and under the washer but not on the cone portion that contacts the wheel. And these cars are designed for serious racing. That's good enough for me.

As always, do what makes you comfortable.

 

[andyd]

I like horrifying folks with my lackadaisical car maintenance. "Purists may cringe but.." used to be my favorite intro on the E28 page. The older BMW guys just smile, because they have learned all the work arounds keeping their 2002 or E 9 going. A 2 lb ball peen hammer and a few bars and pipe fittings. and most expensive nifty presses can be bodged. I've been honing my automotive skills since I bought a '53 Ford for $5 back when I was 9 yrs old. I have nowhere near the skills to be a professional mechanic. It shows. I am sloow. I just want to squeeze a few more K miles out of some old heap. Mostly I can leave a car in better shape than when it broke. Or maintain it well enough for it not to break down for 12 yrs. That is how far I 've progressed in 57 yrs of DIY

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: maximus
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs. They should be clean and dry.

A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.


With my factory Buick wheels, all the friction is between the acorn shaped lug nuts and the matching acorn recess in the wheels. If you gotta depend on the wheel studs for fastening security, you got problems.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Originally Posted By: andyd
Mostly I can leave a car in better shape than when it broke.

This is usually the goal I shoot for. Generally it seems to be meticulous clean and preparation that accomplishes this. And it usually takes time. Some just wont do it, even pros it seems. But, a pro with the proper equipment, tools, and chemicals can probably knock down in an hour what it would take us a week to do. You know, flush machines, impact tools, computer scanners, lifts, training and FSMs....etc


But that is what I like to do. I try to make every wire, nut, bolt, body panel, etc cleaned and treated so it will be less likely to dry rot or disintegrate due to heat, age, sun, usage, etc......And what you cannot get to in normal cleaning you can when replacing a part because it opens up real estate to view any grime or troublesome areas and now you can fit a cleaning cloth in there.

But, boy, who are crazy are those restorers. If memory serves me right- they find the rarest, oldest, rusted down heap that nobody makes parts for and disassembles every part and assembly, cleans, buffs, patches and reassembles it back into one that just rolled out of the manufacturing plant! It is crazy to me- how they can 'reverse' the deterioration. I simply take what is there and clean and prep it (@ 100,000-150,000 miles) before the damage is permanent and try to prevent all the bad stuff from getting to it.