Corrosion on wheel studs

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JHZR2

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Rotated tires on the Accord this AM. All nuts removed just fine, but on the threads of the studs, there was a good amount of white corrosion on the threads. Not ruling out salt residue, but it seems finer, purer white, and less crystalline than when salt builds up. Not all studs show it either.

Recommendations?

Brass brush with wd-40? Then air dry or flush with acetone? Soap and water?
 
I had that same problem. I don't know what the powder is, but a very light coat of oil solved that problem and it lasts years. It alters the torque reading of course and I adjusted for that, but I'm not aware of any other successful method that both stops the corrosion and keeps the threads dry.
 
Seems likely they weren't lubricated, in which case a wee bit of white powder is getting off lightly.

Use grease, oil and/or anti-seize if you can get it.

I can't but I make my own. Lately on wheel studs I use polythene, but in the past I've used aluminium foil, PTFE tape, a rub with an old tyre weight, or a graphite pencil.

Alteration in the torque-tension relationship is easily bypassed by not using a torque wrench in the first place.
 
Another problem solved by a liberal application of chassis grease in the area. Dry torque values be hanged. I want to be able to change a tire under the worst conditions. I keep the hub, the contact area on the rim and the nut/studs/bolts shiny with grease. I have not "lost" a wheel in ages and I can change a flat in 10 minutes without drama
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JHzR2 all but the acetone will work. It will clean too well.
 
A wire brush tool on a Dremel works well, then some anti seize. Be sure to put some on the wheel/brake mating surface, especially if you have hub centric wheels.
 
It could be corrosion of the Dacromet coating commonly used on OEM studs. Dacromet contains small flakes of aluminum and zinc in a paint-like carrier.
 
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs. They should be clean and dry.

A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.
 
Originally Posted By: maximusA[/quote
A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.


The problem with that is some lugs are rust buckets, and by the time the tire needs to be serviced they are rusted so bad that a tire tool, or breaker bar is not going to break them free without breaking studs. Anti-seize takes care of the problem. I have seen popular Ingersoll Rand 231C air 1/2 impact wrenches struggle to bust rusty lugs loose.
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
The problem with that is some lugs are rust buckets, and by the time the tire needs to be serviced they are rusted so bad that a tire tool, or breaker bar is not going to break them free without breaking studs. Anti-seize takes care of the problem. I have seen popular Ingersoll Rand 231C air 1/2 impact wrenches struggle to bust rusty lugs loose.


Especially if you don't rotate the tires when you're supposed to do so.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BigD1
The problem with that is some lugs are rust buckets, and by the time the tire needs to be serviced they are rusted so bad that a tire tool, or breaker bar is not going to break them free without breaking studs. Anti-seize takes care of the problem. I have seen popular Ingersoll Rand 231C air 1/2 impact wrenches struggle to bust rusty lugs loose.


Especially if you don't rotate the tires when you're supposed to do so.


A consequence of negligence.

Studs can be replaced fairly easily if they're that far gone.
 
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Maximus, have you ever changed a flat tire? On the roadside? At Night? in a Blizzard? Pick your worst case scenario. Every time this topic arises, there is always a stickler for the "right way" Trust me a few foot pounds either way isn't gonna matter much.
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Originally Posted By: maximus
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs. They should be clean and dry.

A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.

I've always put a drop of oil on each stud, spread it with my finger and gently rubbed it off with a cloth. Never had one loosen or get stuck.
 
For what its worth, I once put a dab of grease on the wheel studs of my old Duster and next time I looked one of the nuts was gone so now I wire brush the studs and use closed end nuts which pretty much stop the corrosion.
 
Lube them with anti-seize. German cars with bolts not studs are the worst! Once again, I've been lubing my wheel stud / bolt threads for years and never, ever found one loose when it came time to remove same.
 
Originally Posted By: maximus
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs. They should be clean and dry.

A cleaning with a wire brush and shot of brake cleaner is what I've always used.

Maximus, please understand this is chiefly an issue with Northern climates. Most of us here have had to deal with lug nuts that are almost seized and act very crunchy when taking them off. A light application of neverseize on the threads makes nut removal more compliant and manageable.
 
Even in northern climes, studs are supposed to be clean and dry.

However, I live near the ocean. We get salt water in the street when coastal flooding happens. Stuff rusts as fast here as it does in those climes.

So, my solution for your problem: wire bush the rust off. Hit the bolts/studs with a shot of pure zinc primer.

No corrosion. Clean, predictable torque values. Easy to remove the wheels when needed.

Now, the OUTSIDE of the wheel bolts on my Mercedes are another issue...they would only last 2 - 3 years until they started to rust...

For that problem: titanium bolts.

I'll let you know how that works out in the long run...but they sure have looked pretty for the first few months....

 
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I always burnish a small amount of antiseize into the wheel studs when I first get a vehicle and that lasts forever. By burnishing I mean to use a paper towel/rag and work the antiseize into the threads until they are coated. I don't think the torque required reduction is enough to be concerned with.
 
Another wheelstud antiseize post... Well I'm been using AS on my lugs since I bought my first car almost 20 years ago. Never had a problem, actually quiet the opposite. Here in the rust belt its quite the wise idea.
 
Originally Posted By: maximus
Some of these posts are unbelievable. Everything I've read and been taught strongly advises against putting any kind of lube on wheel studs.


Me too, unless I think maybe 20 years or more back, when IIRC greasing studs seemed to be standard practice.

Almost "everything I've read and been taught" on it subsequently has been utter bollocks, but then I don't necessarily believe everything I'm told.

Polythene seems to work well. I think it might have a thread-lock effect too, nylock stylee, though I don't know this for a fact.
 
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