Current oci will be 4k-5k miles. I changed the air filter to a Fram Extra Guard, the last one was an oem that had been in there too long. Current miles are 117k.
Did you use the Maxlife Synthetic Blend in the red bottle? 10k on it may be pushing it. I wonder if that's why you have so much iron. Did you cut the filter?
No it's the Full Synthetic version, silver jug. I think the high silicon reading may have increased the Iron reading so I put a new air filter in. I didn't cut the filter but still have it. Will probably send to Car51 for c&p. I did clean the air filter after the first uoa and the silicon reading did come down. I think the Intake Manifold Gasket needs to be replaced since it runs a little rough in freezing weather(around 20 degrees) but is fine once it's warmed up. Which is a common issue apparently.
Probably sticking to 30 wts from now on. Here's a link to the thread with the previous UOA:
We had a Corolla, which had the same engine as yours. I did have to change the intake manifold gasket because it had a vacuum leak. The Victor Reinz seems to be the preferred one among the owners. That fixed the vacuum and check engine light issue.
You can get the OEM gasket online for a dollar or two more. I replaced it two years ago for throwing codes and it's been fine since with the updated gasket. Easy to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor while you're in there.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I think the high silicon reading may have increased the Iron reading so I put a new air filter in.
....
I did clean the air filter after the first uoa and the silicon reading did come down.
Why do you believe cleaning your air filter would result in a lower silicon reading?
Same engine here. If you are doing extended OCI, cleaning and reusing the air filter is not a good idea. It is better use a fresh air filter every 10-12K miles. Taking it out and in after occasional cleaning will not bring down your silicon numbers as it won't be sealed as tight.
Originally Posted By: salcuta88
We had a Corolla, which had the same engine as yours. I did have to change the intake manifold gasket because it had a vacuum leak. The Victor Reinz seems to be the preferred one among the owners. That fixed the vacuum and check engine light issue.
Toyota upgraded the intake manifold gasket, which is the orange one. It should be around $7. I wouldn't bother with aftermarket options to save few cents.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
No it's the Full Synthetic version, silver jug. I think the high silicon reading may have increased the Iron reading so I put a new air filter in. I didn't cut the filter but still have it. Will probably send to Car51 for c&p. I did clean the air filter after the first uoa and the silicon reading did come down. I think the Intake Manifold Gasket needs to be replaced since it runs a little rough in freezing weather(around 20 degrees) but is fine once it's warmed up. Which is a common issue apparently.
Probably sticking to 30 wts from now on. Here's a link to the thread with the previous UOA:
My oem Honda air filters seem better quality than the auto store filters. How do you rate the construction of the filters you used? I don't clean 'em I toss 'em. 5k oci is a good idea. Don't worry too much,your motor has plenty of iron in it. You could try a different oil lotsa 5 quart jugs at WM.
I've been using oem filters up till now. This is the first time over the last 15 yrs that I bought something other than oem as far as air filters go. This one was the Fram Extra Guard. I liked the rubber type material that seals the edge of the filter to the housing. The oem seems much cheaper in that regard. Media seems about the same. I did check out Purolators at AZ and wasn't too impressed with those, seemed cheaply made. Price for the Fram was $10.48 online and the store did the price match since the store price was $12.48. Dealer price for an air filter is close to $20 even with a coupon.
I saw on Fram's website they have a Tough Guard air filter but haven't seen any around.