Brake Bleeders

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Originally Posted By: BigD1
I have had a few over the years that wanted to be stubborn, and on those I had to resort to cracking open the lines at the master cylinder while doing a two man. Have plenty of rags because it will make a mess.


Rags and water both man. The MC is in an odd location on these and we've found the best thing is a 32 oz container half full.. anything else resorts to cussing and hissy fits.
 
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There could be air in the ABS also reverse bleeding or triggering the ABS pump with a scan tool is the only way to get the air out if it did.
 
Pushing is better for releasing air than pulling. Bubbles tend to rise and the master cylinder is usually the highest point.

These days I refill the system upward. For routine maintenance I cycle about 20 mls in and out of the caliper/cylinder a few times, then dicard and replace.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav

This tool will do the job better than the others in some situations like some PITA clutches and air bound ABS systems without triggering the ABS unit with a scan tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GVFMRTY?psc=1

Edit: This tool is not for brake fluid flushing only removing stubborn air in the system.


I agree completely. Although I sometimes wish I had a third hand in order to use it, I am quite pleased with how effective it is.
 
Gravity, and 2 man have to be the hardest/longest way possible for bleeding brakes from my experience, followed by any hand operated vac/pressure methods. Moving fluid quickly through the lines with pressure, or vacuum using compressed air is what works the best. Another tip. Before disconnecting any lines, if you block your brake pedal down part way, all the brake fluid will stay in the upstream lines, and master cylinder without leaking out because you block the outlet ports. Just like dipping a straw in water and holding your finger over the top of it. I have bled completely dry brake systems by myself using a air powered vacuum bleeder in less than 30 minutes, without "bench bleeding" the master cylinder too!
 
Originally Posted By: Traction
Gravity, and 2 man have to be the hardest/longest way possible for bleeding brakes


Any method involving "pumping" the brake pedal is likely to be a bit of a pain, but we spend most of our lives fighting gravity and the one time its useful you're going to dis it?

Gravity just, like, happens, and its free.

Very Zen, as someone said in an earlier thread.

Originally Posted By: Traction
followed by any hand operated vac/pressure methods. Moving fluid quickly through the lines with pressure, or vacuum using compressed air is what works the best.


I daresay, BUT I doubt it's necessary or justifiable unless perhaps you're a pro or have an especially stubborn system.

Originally Posted By: Traction
Another tip. Before disconnecting any lines, if you block your brake pedal down part way, all the brake fluid will stay in the upstream lines, and master cylinder without leaking out because you block the outlet ports.


Hadn't thought of that. Dunno if I'll need it but I'll bear it in mind. Thanks for the tip.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
There could be air in the ABS also reverse bleeding or triggering the ABS pump with a scan tool is the only way to get the air out if it did.


I should have been more specific.

It's a 1971 240z. No ABS to worry about.
smile.gif
 
This is the air powered vacuum bleeder I've had great luck with made by OTC, and re-branded by some suppliers. I looked at the OTC site and see they have a newer version of the same thing. It is also available with a auto refill bottle I wish I had, but it would be easy to rig up something similar with a plastic bottle with a nipple on it.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-8104-Vacuum-B...m+brake+bleeder
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
No ABS on that one.
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Does this have bleeders on the MC? You can disconnect the lines, use bleeder lines in a full MC and pump it slowly on the car as if you were bench bleeding it then reconnect the lines and bleed normally at the wheels.


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorma...CFZCIswodQ6YKGg




Yep we also did that. Substantial amounts of air came out.
 
He installed speed bleeders today and all is good.

The rear was the problem child.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Russell Speed Bleeders. One of the best investments I've made. Don't have to ask war department to assist anymore.


Or you could buy them from the patent holder, who manufacture them for Russell, at half the price.

Google "speed bleeders".
Heh heh, or a piece of clear tubing stuck in a half full hot sauce bottle. grand total of < $ 10, including brake fluid. I don't have the need for fancy stuff that gathers dust or gets lost.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Russell Speed Bleeders. One of the best investments I've made. Don't have to ask war department to assist anymore.


Or you could buy them from the patent holder, who manufacture them for Russell, at half the price.

Google "speed bleeders".
Heh heh, or a piece of clear tubing stuck in a half full hot sauce bottle. grand total of < $ 10, including brake fluid. I don't have the need for fancy stuff that gathers dust or gets lost.
grin2.gif



If your speed bleeders are gathering dust and getting lost, you're using them wrong..
smile.gif
 
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