Oil burning issue

[fordf250123]

I have a question about the best method to fix an oil consumption issue. I'm very into prolonging the life of my truck, a 02 f-250 with a 5.4 triton with 210k. It was a former fleet truck, so I can only assume it's ran whatever conventional was around at the time. It's done 7-10k miles I've owned it on a conventional (4k) and then Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20. In the last couple of months has there been a strong gust of bluish smoke on cold starts. So, valve steam seals are likely the issue.

With my driving I have to add 3/4th quart every 3 or so months at about 1000 miles, current oil is Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-20. I've only payed attention to this once, so that could be off a little.

What is odd about this is that most of this consumption is within the last 250 miles when I've used costco top tier gas. The last 750 miles I've exclusively used non-top tier to see if that was somehow contributing to excessive use and there was very little consumption in those 750 miles.

I'm going to observe the next 1000 miles on top-tier gas, and that should bring me to my next oil change.

But, I'm unsure what is the best synthetic blend high mileage oil for valve stem conditioning. The truck has no other leaks, and I don't want to create any.
Would something like atp-205 reseal be better with Motorcraft?
Most add-on oil additives just jack up viscosity which is a giant no on any triton motor...
Any High mileage oil might turn any good seals (which they are) into butter

Should I just switch back to non-top tier gas and hope deposits or buildup help seal the valves again?

 

[Birdman476]

i'd give phillips 66 shield 5w30 (thicker than their 10w30) or maxlife 10w30 a try. that motor was specced for a 30 weight until 03 and then it was specced for a 20 weight. that should keep the burning low. If you feel like it, toss a little tcw 3 in at every fill. Seemed to stop oil burning for me.

 

[Birdman476]

phillips is rebadged motorcraft so that works as well.

 

[fordf250123]

That oil seems to be new, and isn't widely available where I am. I'm thinking about Castrol GTX 5w-20 High Mileage Synthetic Blend, is it better/worse than Max-life? 10w is too thick for these motors, so I want to stay with 5w-20 or 5w-30.

I haven't seen any scientific evidence to prove which is better other than price and opinion.

 

[Birdman476]

looking at the msds for the 5w30 and 10w30 maxlife, the 10w30 is not that much thicker. It certainly would help a worn motor like yours. Don't buy the idea that these motors will grenade if they dont have a 5w. ive had many a tired triton go many more miles on 10w30.

 

[Robenstein]

Agreed, run a 10w30 and try it. Heck if I recall at one time Ford dealers were telling people to run 10w40 to help with ticking cam phasers. And people were not blowing engines on that brew.

 

[fordf250123]

Oil grade aside, which has the best documented properties -- gtx Castrol synthetic blend high mileage or Valvoline maxlife?
GTX Castrol Edge seems to be good, but is a full synthetic.

 

[Robenstein]

There is a fully synthetic Maxlife I have used that and the Pennzoil High Mileage full synthetic with good results in my cars.

 

[fordf250123]

A full synthetic might slip past the valve stems (issue at hand) easier?
Maybe not in a 10w-30

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: fordf250123
A full synthetic might slip past the valve stems (issue at hand) easier?
Maybe not in a 10w-30

A synthetic oil might "slip past" the valve stems easier? Where is the scientific evidence for that?

And a 10W-30 is too thick for these motors but 5W-30 is okay? At what temperature? Are you familiar with what the "W" rating means?

TBH the only way to fix leaking valve stem seals is to replace them. Changing gas stations isn't going to help.

 

[Birdman476]

Max life all the way.

 

[fordf250123]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: fordf250123
A full synthetic might slip past the valve stems (issue at hand) easier?
Maybe not in a 10w-30

TBH the only way to fix leaking valve stem seals is to replace them. Changing gas stations isn't going to help.


Unfortunately it doesn't make economic sense to do a full rebuild on the motor. Gas which does contain higher detergents, i.e. top tier, in my opinion may be contributing to more oil consumption somehow in this case. Kinda similar to how people complain about increased oil use when using crankcase additives/fuel system cleaners. Synthetics do flow better in low temps than conventional counterparts.

 

[jacobsond]

I dont know 1qt or less every 1000 miles. I would not spend to much time worrying about it with a truck with 210,000. Pick a mid-range price oil and check your oil frequently. There are ways to change the valve stem seals without taking the head off if you want to mess with that.

 

[fordf250123]

Originally Posted By: jacobsond
I dont know 1qt or less every 1000 miles. I would not spend to much time worrying about it with a truck with 210,000. Pick a mid-range price oil and check your oil frequently. There are ways to change the valve stem seals without taking the head off if you want to mess with that.


I'm trying to learn scientifically what might be the best overall oil for this motor (other than motorcraft which I currently use) to bring consumption down.
If anyone wants to post the additive packs/scientific differences between high mileage synthetic blend variants of:

Quaker State
Valvoline
Mobile 1
Castrol

I'm trying to find the best on-paper oil. It seems some brands are made by the same company and we are only given the illusion of choice.

 

[North to Alaska]

Here is a good read for you.
Pay close attention to the"what you can or can't do" section.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/what-are-the-reasons-of-oil-consumption.php

Please understand that for example, 5w-30 conventional or synthetic will have the same thickness by definition.
A conventional will lose its "thickness" aka viscosity much faster.
If you are burning oil, DON'T use conventional oil, use a synthetic.