Bellhousing bolt threads

[buck91]

Just wondering if any of you put anything on the threads of bellhousing bolts? I have my Mustang apart for a clutch job and was considering a dab of 242 (blue) thread locker. Always been a "lube it or lock it" type, and I'm not sure if lube is right for this application.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Personally I'd go with dry or maybe a little blue. No reason to lube those bolts.

 

[Trav]

Don't put anything on the threads.

 

[bullwinkle]

If the bolt head looks like this washer head bolt, you don't need any additional locking method-

 

[Trav]

Even if it doesn't have a head like that why would you need locking compound?

 

[Merkava_4]

I have the exact opposite opinion of Bottom_Feeder. I always put something on the threads; whether it be medium strength Loctite, anti-seize, or oil. But the threads have to be clean first; I'm very particular about that.

 

[Trav]

To OCD for me, I hope you are correcting torque values. Trying to do the job too perfect can often lead to trouble you didn't bargain for.

 

[The_Eric]

I agree with Trav.

Bellhousing bolts really don't need anything on them since the joint that they clamp together does not move (provided the mating surfaces are clean and dry). If you have a nice clean aND rigid jointhe, there will be no movement. Movement is what loosens fasteners.

 

[bdcardinal]

All I have to add is make sure that the transmission and block are fully mated before tightening. Do not use the bolts to draw them together, we had a piece of a 5.4L GT500 block fall on the shop floor from another dealer doing that on a clutch job. Only repair was a new longblock.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Trying to do the job too perfect can often lead to trouble you didn't bargain for.


I need to do some things perfect in order to make up for all the bone-head mistakes I make.

 

[Trav]

ok

 

[expat]

Perhaps the bellhousing bolts should be torqued to yield. You could also drill and wire them.

 

[buck91]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav
Trying to do the job too perfect can often lead to trouble you didn't bargain for.


I need to do some things perfect in order to make up for all the bone-head mistakes I make.

Haha, right!

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: expat
Perhaps the bellhousing bolts should be torqued to yield. You could also drill and wire them.

No they are not TTY bolts. Contrary to popular belief and what most Euro makers seemingly wants people to believe aside from head bolts there are really very few TTY bolts on the engine or the car.

Read a Euro FSM almost every bolt removed must be replaced with a new one leading people to believe they must be TTY, the vast majority are not. TTY bolts can easily be identified by their thinner shanks and torque spec that includes an amount of degrees after initial torque.
Some bolts require a degree torque anyway but if they don't have a reduced shank they are not TTY.