Rubbish advice on BITOG these days...

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Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Come on Shannow ... your "Mr. SAE Paper" guy. You really think if draining the sump cold was a big issue that there wouldn't be an SAE paper about it, or at least some half way official white paper. SAE papers are your primary back-up tool of proof for your arguments ... until there isn't one to be found.
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Nah, usually goes someone of limited, linear though process states "of course this is the way the universe works" based on some flawed zero speed one dimensional model.

I counter with engineering, and I've been pretty OK at engineering for quite a long time. But limited linear thought models don't comprehend engineering, and demand proof.

So I start bringing someone else's work into the equation, via SAE or other papers.

Only to have them discounted as irrelevant (that was diesel, marine, 4 cylinder, motored on a dyno, a thesis (as opposed to real research), cherry picked data, and always presenting someone else's work.

There's an old adage about arguing with idiots...they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
There is absolutely ZERO SAE papers that even address the difference in engine wear or engine damage due to draining the sump hot vs cold. But there are dozens of not hundreds of SAE papers that say using a high efficiency oil filter will reduce engine wear. SAE guys know that the full full oil filter is the device used to keep the oil clean, not draining the sump hot vs cold.

Are you sure that's what those papers say? Better filters reduce wear? It seems more likely that they would study the effects of contaminants on wear and separately study the ability of filters to remove said contaminants. So rather than studying again and again whether better filters reduce wear as you claim, they would simply study the ability of new filter designs to trap contaminants, and then draw their conclusions from there. We know the contaminants cause wear, so we know reducing them reduces wear. That part doesn't need to be tested again.

Yes, I'm fairly certain that if you look, you'll find plenty of papers on how contaminants cause wear, and how reducing them in turn reduces wear. But no, they don't study whether a 99% filter results in less wear than a 90% filter, because they already know — from separate studies — that fewer contaminants means less wear. Instead, they study whether a particular filter design reduces contaminants by more than their old designs did. So I suspect that if you look more closely, those studies you're referring to actually say something like, "Filter X is better/worse at removing wear-causing particles than Filter Y." The effects of wear-causing particles will be found in other, separate studies.

By extension, because we know that fewer contaminants means less wear, we know that everything we do to reduce contamination will reduce wear in turn; everything from engineering efforts like improved filter design to service techniques like hot drains.

Quote:
And BTW serversurfer, just in case you missed it, I'm not advocating everyone should drain there oil cold. What I'm saying is there is no proof it hurts anything ... zero documented proof, it's all conjecture - unlike proof that high efficiency oil filters do reduce engine wear. Using high efficiency oil filters will do way more for your engine than draining the oil hot.

But it has been proven. It's been proven that hot solvents hold more solute, so the hot oil coming out of your sump is carrying more contaminants with it. It's also been proven that having fewer contaminants results in less wear. Ergo, it has been proven that hot drains reduce wear.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Appreciate your comments, but I'd say it's a stretch to say the cause of a sludged up engine was from draining the oil cold. But once sludged up, then I agree draining the sump cold isn't helping at all, and draining as hot as possible would help more.

Obviously draining hot/warm is a better practice than draining cold, but I've seen zero proof that it causes any major issues if the engine is maintained properly and kept clean. Sludge is primary caused by extending the oil change way beyond what it should be. If this was a big deal there would be at least a paper or two from the SAE about it. I can't find any official test results of any kind addressing draining oil hot vs cold, but maybe someone else can.

But that's precisely what you're doing by (intentionally) failing to remove all the contaminants you can. Your "fresh" fill is gonna start dirtier than mine does, and it's gonna finish even more dirty. Anything that precipitates out of the oil as it cools is gonna hang around in your sump where it then contaminates your virgin oil as soon as it's warmed up. Without a hot drain to flush them away, they will literally bounce around in there for the entire life of the engine, and in greater and greater numbers.

Remember too that different elements have different densities and different solubility. Lead likely precipitates out before iron, I'd guess. If your lead precipitates out before you drain, then you're leaving all of that lead in the sump to accumulate over time, even if you're getting the iron out. And the ever-increasing lead levels won't show up on your UOA, because we've already established you're leaving it in the sump, where it can't be measured. But whatever the specific contaminants we're dealing with, anything that precipitates out before your drain is just gonna accumulate in your system over time, escaping the detection of your UOAs.

Hey, there's an experiment you can actually do yourself. Take an engine you've been cold-draining for a while, and do a scalding hot drain on it instead, then compare that UOA to your cold UOAs. My guess is that the hot sample will show more contaminants than the cold samples had been, but that if you continue with a hot-drain regimen, you'll see those levels drop and stabilize over time.

Ironically, you agree that hot drains will help to de-sludge an engine, while somehow failing to recognize that those hot drains will be even more effective in preventing sludge from forming in the first place. After all, the sludge is literally the un-removed contaminants. So hot drains will clean an engine, but do nothing towards keeping it clean? You're arguing that a hot drain makes no difference while simultaneously conceding that it does.

Oh, and you can just call me Surfer.
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Nah, usually goes someone of limited, linear though process states "of course this is the way the universe works" based on some flawed zero speed one dimensional model.

I counter with engineering, and I've been pretty OK at engineering for quite a long time. But limited linear thought models don't comprehend engineering, and demand proof.

So I start bringing someone else's work into the equation, via SAE or other papers.

Only to have them discounted as irrelevant (that was diesel, marine, 4 cylinder, motored on a dyno, a thesis (as opposed to real research), cherry picked data, and always presenting someone else's work.

There's an old adage about arguing with idiots...they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Someone actually faulted you for citing someone else's work? If we can't learn from the experience of others, then what's the point in discussing anything at all? Even if it was a study you'd done yourself, wouldn't it then be similarly irrelevant to whomever you were debating, not being their study?

How could someone be so bad at logic?
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Originally Posted By: 02SE
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Appreciate your comments, but I'd say it's a stretch to say the cause of a sludged up engine was from draining the oil cold. But once sludged up, then I agree draining the sump cold isn't helping at all, and draining as hot as possible would help more.

Obviously draining hot/warm is a better practice than draining cold, but I've seen zero proof that it causes any major issues if the engine is maintained properly and kept clean. Sludge is primary caused by extending the oil change way beyond what it should be. If this was a big deal there would be at least a paper or two from the SAE about it. I can't find any official test results of any kind addressing draining oil hot vs cold, but maybe someone else can.


I usually don't reply with anything terribly substantive on here, because I don't feel like typing endlessly while debating a subject. But I'll reply since we have an on-line history.

In the scenario I mentioned wherein the customers engines were sludged, the OCI's weren't extended, the PCV system was operational, the only factor which seemed to be causal, were the repeated build-up of contaminates on internal engine surfaces, from repeated cold drains. After cleaning the sludge through the more drastic measures I mentioned, and then having the owners institute a hot drain oil change regimen, and despite the owners using the same oil they always had, the sludge build-up never returned over a several year period.


02SE, don't take my response personally, not meant that way, I'm just looking at this from all angles. As you know, there are engines that will sludge up even if the (poorly designed) PCV system is "working", and oil changes are done pretty regularly ... and will sludge up even if the oil is always drained hot. Not every car in the world that is sludged up had a routine of cold sump drains. Many factors are involved in engines that sludge up. I don't know what vehicle your experience was with, but I'm betting there are unknown factors that also contributed. Not saying cold sump drains didn't play a part, but only in that it may not have removed quite as much from the oil pan when drained cold. Draining the sump cold however was not the the root cause of the sludge. This paper talks about the causes of sludge formation: http://papers.sae.org/2005-01-2173/

Originally Posted By: 02SE
I haven't looked for an SAE Paper that could confirm my own observations, and I have no intention of doing so. I'm just telling you what I experienced, with a handful of customer cars. And of course my little experiment on my own vehicles.


Don't bother, because you won't find anything about hot vs cold sump draining in any SAE paper, or even in the SAE papers about engine sludge there is no talk about cold sump drains contributing to the problem.
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
However, when I worked on consumer cars for a living, I also had cars come in that were sludged. Think goop throughout the engine. When I asked the customer what their oil change method was, it was either going too long on the OCI, or changing their own oil, and doing so by draining it cold.

The takeaway for me is that over time the accumulation of particles left behind by the cold drain oil change, leads to the formation of sludge that will not drain even with the oil at operating temperature. At that point, more drastic measures like removing valve covers and the oil pan, and going after the sludge with solvent and a brush became necessary to remove the sludge.

No, I didn't publish any SAE papers on my experience. But knowing what I've seen, I choose to always drain the oil in my vehicles while it's still at operating temperature.

People are free to take my experience to heart when considering their own Oil Change procedures, or discount it completely and do whatever they want. It makes no difference to me.
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Explaination of your observations...

Firstly varnish starts the second you turn the key.
Varnish solubility changes with oil temperature...hot oil holds more than cold oil.
Varnish is heavier than oil.
Therefore if the oil is near it's varnish holding limit (near impossible to determine using any method available to the mechanic), and cools, it drops varnish out of solution, into suspension, and over time it falls out.

Varnish leads to MRV (cold flow) increases in viscosity, and if it's predominatly in a layer close to the bottom of the sump, that oil will be slow to drain (at best), even if the oil over the top is running at 20-60 times slower than it would otherwise at operating temperature.

That slowere moving layer may not make it to the sump plug during the drain, and if (as usual) there's a pool still left below the drain plug, then what's left in the sump when you refill is higher in average varnish content in service, and certainly than the oil that was drained out...you are concentrating it.

Q.E.D. the new oil has a higher starting varnish content then a regular hot oil change...simple logic.

Then the oil starts varnishing the second that you turn the key...resulting in more total at the end of the OCI than at the end of last.

Rinse and repeat until you have problems (or nothing blows up).

Similarly soot (yes, for Zee, this was posted in the Automotive section, but I wasn't going to start threads in each of the sub sections on rubbish advice).

When the engine has been freshly run, all of the particles that don't get filtered (there are lots of them) are fairly evenly distributed in the oil.

Let it cool, and they head for the floor (probably slowly), and concentrate (naturally) at the bottom of the pan.

Same mechanism for varnish applies, the bottom layer is largely imobile, including the particles (clearly that you have observed), the upper layer that drains has reduced numbers of particles, the particles are concentrated in the undrained layer.

Cold, you are clearly concentrating contaminants...even if you ARE adequately maintaining.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Your engine is producing abnormal amounts of Fe particles...

I don't know this is abnormal. I've never noticed it on another car, but I might not have.


To add ... did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of an oil that may not be proper for that engine (based on the info in your other thread on your particulate issue)?

If so, any difference seen?


Given that the car was dealer maintained when I got it, and showed the problem (If it is a problem) when I got it, and showed a (subjective, non quantified) improvement when I started maintaining it, this doesn't seem likely to be relevant.

You are of course entirely free to think that using a heavier viscosity oil than spec. is likely to increase wear. You may also think that Mobil Delvac 15W40 is a poor quality oil. Doesn't bother me, and I doubt it would bother Mobil much either.

Similarly I'm not much interested in the general implication, pretty common in such discussions, that, since the symptoms don't fit your theory, they must be due to abuse/neglect/bad practice.

Could be, but you'll need to come up with something a bit more specific for that explanation to be taken seriously.
 
ZeeOSix,

I'm not taking anything personally, nor am I in any way offended.

I am well aware that many factors have to be accounted for, for sludge to be formed in an engine. The customer cars were several different makes, all with owners with their own unique driving style. None of the cars were cars that became infamous for being sludge-monsters. The one factor that was consistent, was the owners cold oil change procedure. As I said, once I cleaned up the sludge in the engines, and gave advice to the owners that they change to a hot oil change procedure, none of the cars formed sludge again, over a several year period. It's been years since I worked on consumer cars for a living, but my experience with those cars (about 10 in total) and my own experiment with my vehicles, has stuck with me.

Anyway, I just simply lack the patience to sit and type on a website all day to discuss most things in depth, including this topic. I wasted waaaaaaaaaaaay too much time on Dennis' board, and do my best to limit my on-line time these days. If I'm home, I'd rather be out riding. I took the old 'Bus out today, and stretched the throttle cables a bit..

Err, uhh I mean I went for a nice sedate ride.
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: 02SE
However, when I worked on consumer cars for a living, I also had cars come in that were sludged. Think goop throughout the engine. When I asked the customer what their oil change method was, it was either going too long on the OCI, or changing their own oil, and doing so by draining it cold.

The takeaway for me is that over time the accumulation of particles left behind by the cold drain oil change, leads to the formation of sludge that will not drain even with the oil at operating temperature. At that point, more drastic measures like removing valve covers and the oil pan, and going after the sludge with solvent and a brush became necessary to remove the sludge.

No, I didn't publish any SAE papers on my experience. But knowing what I've seen, I choose to always drain the oil in my vehicles while it's still at operating temperature.

People are free to take my experience to heart when considering their own Oil Change procedures, or discount it completely and do whatever they want. It makes no difference to me.
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Explaination of your observations...



I appreciate your taking the time to type out the explanation, but I already know that. I just lack the patience to type it all out, as I alluded to in my above reply to ZeeOsix.

Incidentally, as I type this I am watching a program on the Great Barrier Reef, Fraser Island, and the area in general. One of these days I'm going to spend some time exploring your Country.
 
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Originally Posted By: 02SE
I appreciate your taking the time to type out the explanation, but I already know that. I just lack the patience to type it all out, as I alluded to in my above reply to ZeeOsix.


No probs, I was just making sure that the process was out there.

Originally Posted By: 02SE
Incidentally, as I type this I am watching a program on the Great Barrier Reef, Fraser Island, and the area in general. One of these days I'm going to spend some time exploring your Country.


I've never been up North of Oz myself...you might beat me there.
 
Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
There is absolutely ZERO SAE papers that even address the difference in engine wear or engine damage due to draining the sump hot vs cold. But there are dozens of not hundreds of SAE papers that say using a high efficiency oil filter will reduce engine wear. SAE guys know that the full full oil filter is the device used to keep the oil clean, not draining the sump hot vs cold.

Are you sure that's what those papers say? Better filters reduce wear? It seems more likely that they would study the effects of contaminants on wear and separately study the ability of filters to remove said contaminants. So rather than studying again and again whether better filters reduce wear as you claim, they would simply study the ability of new filter designs to trap contaminants, and then draw their conclusions from there. We know the contaminants cause wear, so we know reducing them reduces wear. That part doesn't need to be tested again.

Yes, I'm fairly certain that if you look, you'll find plenty of papers on how contaminants cause wear, and how reducing them in turn reduces wear. But no, they don't study whether a 99% filter results in less wear than a 90% filter, because they already know — from separate studies — that fewer contaminants means less wear. Instead, they study whether a particular filter design reduces contaminants by more than their old designs did. So I suspect that if you look more closely, those studies you're referring to actually say something like, "Filter X is better/worse at removing wear-causing particles than Filter Y." The effects of wear-causing particles will be found in other, separate studies.

By extension, because we know that fewer contaminants means less wear, we know that everything we do to reduce contamination will reduce wear in turn; everything from engineering efforts like improved filter design to service techniques like hot drains.


They certainly have looked at the level of engine wear vs the efficiency level of the oil filter. If you read what's shown in this SAE paper (and many others), they compare filters of different known efficiencies and correlate engine component wear levels (rings, bearings) to the filter used. It's pretty clear that more efficient oil filters reduce engine wear. Look at Table 2 and Figures 3 and 5 in this SAE paper: http://papers.sae.org/881825/

Lots more: http://www.sae.org/search/?qt=engine+wear+vs+oil+filter+efficiency

Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Quote:
And BTW serversurfer, just in case you missed it, I'm not advocating everyone should drain there oil cold. What I'm saying is there is no proof it hurts anything ... zero documented proof, it's all conjecture - unlike proof that high efficiency oil filters do reduce engine wear. Using high efficiency oil filters will do way more for your engine than draining the oil hot.


But it has been proven. It's been proven that hot solvents hold more solute, so the hot oil coming out of your sump is carrying more contaminants with it. It's also been proven that having fewer contaminants results in less wear. Ergo, it has been proven that hot drains reduce wear.


If it's been proven that cold drains causes more engine wear, then where's the technical paper that outlines by what method, and the results that proves it actually happens? You know that all the oil that lubricates the engine first gets filtered, so any debris in the sump that gets stirred up and re-suspended will get filtered out. In those oil filter tests for engine wear, they were putting wear particles into the oil that would be even worse than a bunch of debris being stirred up and re-suspended into the oil. Yet the filters captured the particles and prevented wear. This is why I do advocate using a high efficiency oil filter, because no matter what's in the sump, the filter is what keeps the oil that really matters clean.

Like I said before, proving that cold drains cause increased engine wear would actually make for a good SAE paper. If you search the 'net and you won't find anything unless you're more lucky than I am in searching.

Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Remember too that different elements have different densities and different solubility. Lead likely precipitates out before iron, I'd guess. If your lead precipitates out before you drain, then you're leaving all of that lead in the sump to accumulate over time, even if you're getting the iron out. And the ever-increasing lead levels won't show up on your UOA, because we've already established you're leaving it in the sump, where it can't be measured. But whatever the specific contaminants we're dealing with, anything that precipitates out before your drain is just gonna accumulate in your system over time, escaping the detection of your UOAs.


You might find this interesting. Guy took a UOA sample right after hot shutdown, then another when the oil cooled all the way down. No real difference seen in the UOA. Apparently, the elements tested in a UOA must stay suspended for a very long time, or many never fall out of suspension. So if someone drains the oil after it's cooled back to room temperature (say 12 hours after shutdown) is that worse off than draining the oil when it's still 150+ deg F? ... rhetorical question.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic...s-provided.html

Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Hey, there's an experiment you can actually do yourself. Take an engine you've been cold-draining for a while, and do a scalding hot drain on it instead, then compare that UOA to your cold UOAs. My guess is that the hot sample will show more contaminants than the cold samples had been, but that if you continue with a hot-drain regimen, you'll see those levels drop and stabilize over time.


Could be ... but again, hard to find any testing results like this to prove the theory.

Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Ironically, you agree that hot drains will help to de-sludge an engine, while somehow failing to recognize that those hot drains will be even more effective in preventing sludge from forming in the first place. After all, the sludge is literally the un-removed contaminants. So hot drains will clean an engine, but do nothing towards keeping it clean? You're arguing that a hot drain makes no difference while simultaneously conceding that it does.


Like I showed in the post to 02SE, sludge forming in the first place is not caused by cold sump drains - it's caused by factors that cause the sludge during the use of the engine. An engine that is basically very clean inside could become sludged before the next oil change/drain if it was abused and the conditions were right for sludge formation. Of course, once the sludging starts and continues because the real cause isn't rectified, then the build-up will just become worse and worse.

Draining the oil hot might help keep more out of the pan, but it's not going to prevent sludging or reverse it if the root cause isn't rectified. If an engine is sludged up and the sump is full of crud, then draining it hot will probably help remove more sludge - that's the only difference a hot drain will do in that case. If an engine is kept clean with good maintenance and proper driving cycles (meaning not many super short repeated drives, especially in very cold weather) to prevent sludging from starting and continuing, then there really shouldn't be much crud in the sump.

Originally Posted By: serversurfer
Oh, and you can just call me Surfer.
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You got it.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Your engine is producing abnormal amounts of Fe particles...

I don't know this is abnormal. I've never noticed it on another car, but I might not have.


To add ... did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of an oil that may not be proper for that engine (based on the info in your other thread on your particulate issue)?

If so, any difference seen?


Given that the car was dealer maintained when I got it, and showed the problem (If it is a problem) when I got it, and showed a (subjective, non quantified) improvement when I started maintaining it, this doesn't seem likely to be relevant.

You are of course entirely free to think that using a heavier viscosity oil than spec. is likely to increase wear. You may also think that Mobil Delvac 15W40 is a poor quality oil. Doesn't bother me, and I doubt it would bother Mobil much either.

Similarly I'm not much interested in the general implication, pretty common in such discussions, that, since the symptoms don't fit your theory, they must be due to abuse/neglect/bad practice.

Could be, but you'll need to come up with something a bit more specific for that explanation to be taken seriously.


Just asking the question. Using inferior oil or the wrong oil can cause problems. Oil is what prevents metal wear, as well as keeping the oil clean (ie, good filtration). If the oil's properties are not good at preventing wear, then no matter how clean you filter the oil it's still going to cause wear. Only way you could prove it was oil related is to try a different better suited oil for that engine. Don't take my comments personally ... this is a technical discussion.
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Anyway, I just simply lack the patience to sit and type on a website all day to discuss most things in depth, including this topic. I wasted waaaaaaaaaaaay too much time on Dennis' board, and do my best to limit my on-line time these days. If I'm home, I'd rather be out riding. I took the old 'Bus out today, and stretched the throttle cables a bit..

Err, uhh I mean I went for a nice sedate ride.
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I hear ya there! The weather here still sucks, but I might be able to get the XSR out on Friday & Saturday for the first time in months if the forecast holds. I'll be ducking out from wasting my time here when weather gets good ... you're smarter than I am by staying out of these convoluted discussions!
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Only thing I can say about all these in depth discussions is that it keeps my keyboard skills sharp, and there is always something to learn by everyone here no matter how technically smart they are.

As far as my Busa ... I'm afraid it's going to get put in the corner for the most part since the XSR is just so fun to ride. I've considered selling the Busa, but the sad thing it's still worth more to me than what it's monetarily worth.
 
I am definitely in the drain oil hot camp. yes it is a little more inconvenient, but IMO it makes sense.

First of all, hot oil is thinner and will drain not only faster, but more completeley, getting more of the old oil and gunk out.

Second, I just had to replace the VVT solenoid on my Colorado due to a t-stat that was stuck open and the oil never go hot enough to burn off the bad stuff, and the VVT solenoid sludged up and failed.
 
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Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just asking the question. Using inferior oil or the wrong oil can cause problems. Oil is what prevents metal wear, as well as keeping the oil clean (ie, good filtration). If the oil's properties are not good at preventing wear, then no matter how clean you filter the oil it's still going to cause wear. Only way you could prove it was oil related is to try a different better suited oil for that engine. Don't take my comments personally ... this is a technical discussion.


You are not "Just asking the question" here. You are trying (and failing) to score debating points.

"..did you ever start using a good quality oil " carries the clear (but unsupported) implication (insinuation might be a better term) that I was using a bad quality oil (whatever that means).

Since I've said what oil I was using, this is redundant.

If your post was a contribution to a "technical discussion" it would have some technical content.
 
But the magic of better oil has become a religion. Try hard as some might, they judge. And you and I are morons.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just asking the question. Using inferior oil or the wrong oil can cause problems. Oil is what prevents metal wear, as well as keeping the oil clean (ie, good filtration). If the oil's properties are not good at preventing wear, then no matter how clean you filter the oil it's still going to cause wear. Only way you could prove it was oil related is to try a different better suited oil for that engine. Don't take my comments personally ... this is a technical discussion.


You are not "Just asking the question" here. You are trying (and failing) to score debating points.

"..did you ever start using a good quality oil " carries the clear (but unsupported) implication (insinuation might be a better term) that I was using a bad quality oil (whatever that means).

Since I've said what oil I was using, this is redundant.

If your post was a contribution to a "technical discussion" it would have some technical content.


Boy, you're one sensitive individual that seems to take everything about this car having problems in a negative way - lots of sand in the undies?
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I said "did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of an oil that may not be proper for that engine". It wasn't implying that the oil you were using wasn't good, but that any new oil you might try should be "good quality" and specified for the engine. The oil you're using now is technically not specified for that engine ... right?

If I wanted to imply the oil you were using wasn't good quality I would have said: "did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of [censored] no good oil that may not be proper for that engine".

Try not to read between the lines too much and stop taking everything in a negative way.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just asking the question. Using inferior oil or the wrong oil can cause problems.

Boy, you're one sensitive individual that seems to take everything about this car having problems in a negative way - lots of sand in the undies?
grin.gif


If I wanted to imply the oil you were using wasn't good quality I would have said: "did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of [censored] no good oil that may not be proper for that engine".



I officially become a (grumpy) old man this year. My understanding is I'm expected to be intolerant of bollocks, so I'm having a practice. I intend to hit the ground running.

So "inferior" doesn't mean "[censored] no good"?

Ok, then it doesn't. Black ain't black and I don't want my baby back. The subtleties of 'merican "English " sometimes escape me.

The manual specifies 10W30 for this engine. I'm using 15W40. I've already explained why (based on subjective observations) this is unlikely to be a negative factor, and you havn't given any theoretical technical reason why it might be.

The possibilities that come to mind are the (generally discredited for temperatures above zero) lower pumpability of the higher viscosity oil, and less effective anti-wear properties due to the higher detergency.

OTOH I originally favoured the higher viscosity for better wear protection and the higher detergency to clean out this engine, (though it doesn't actually look that dirty apart from the departed bits that were in the sump). My best information is that this (SJ) oil has fairly good ZDDP dosing.

I'm not very interested in trying 10W30 in it because:-

(a) I've never seen any here
(b) I have plenty of oil to use up
(c) I don't want to spend the money
(d) I have no strong reason to think it'd be better, and some reason to think it might be worse
(e) I currently have no way of detecting or quantifying any effect, so any such "experiment" would be meaningless.

I hope that answers your..er.. question.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just asking the question. Using inferior oil or the wrong oil can cause problems.

Boy, you're one sensitive individual that seems to take everything about this car having problems in a negative way - lots of sand in the undies?
grin.gif


If I wanted to imply the oil you were using wasn't good quality I would have said: "did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of [censored] no good oil that may not be proper for that engine".


I officially become a (grumpy) old man this year. My understanding is I'm expected to be intolerant of bollocks, so I'm having a practice. I intend to hit the ground running.

So "inferior" doesn't mean "[censored] no good"?

Ok, then it doesn't. Black ain't black and I don't want my baby back. The subtleties of 'merican "English " sometimes escape me.


LoL, guess this thread should now turn into an English statement structure and comprehension discussion - gotta keep the convolution alive. Look at the structure of the statement "did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of oil that may not be proper for that engine".

The term "good quality" in the statement is associated with oil that you might have considered using besides what you're currently using. Doesn't mean the current oil is bad quality; it means if you changed oils it was a question if you chose a good quality oil to try. Nothing was said about the oil you are currently using being "inferior" - that's where you "read between the lines". Only thing said associated with the current oil was wondering if it was proper (specified) for your engine. I shouldn't really have to explain this, but since you seem so bent out of shape I guess I need to explain it. Hint: you don't need to be so "grumpy" and should relax a bit ... you'll live longer too (as studies have shown). Anyway, enough fun for now, yeah?
grin.gif


Originally Posted By: Ducked
The manual specifies 10W30 for this engine. I'm using 15W40. I've already explained why (based on subjective observations) this is unlikely to be a negative factor, and you havn't given any theoretical technical reason why it might be.

The possibilities that come to mind are the (generally discredited for temperatures above zero) lower pumpability of the higher viscosity oil, and less effective anti-wear properties due to the higher detergency.


Well, I'd say the viscosity probably wouldn't be an issue unless you see some pretty cold temperatures. What is the coldest temperature you're using this car in? Isn't the oil you're using primarily for diesel engines? If this oil doesn't have good anti-wear performance than that could be contributing to the issue. Like I said, you'd have to change oil and try to determine if your issue is getting better or not.

And as far as the mechanical health of the engine. Do you know the oil pump is healthy and providing adequate oil pressure? Has the engine ever been worked on internally by previous owner(s)? As an example, all it takes is for an oil passage to be partially blocked with sealant and oil flow could be reduced to components. If there is a lack of oil supply for some mechanical reason then it could certainly cause wear problems.

Originally Posted By: Ducked

OTOH I originally favoured the higher viscosity for better wear protection and the higher detergency to clean out this engine, (though it doesn't actually look that dirty apart from the departed bits that were in the sump). My best information is that this (SJ) oil has fairly good ZDDP dosing.


There's been many discussions about wear protection, and the consensus is that viscosity really doesn't factor in, it's the anti-wear additives that actually prevents wear, not the viscosity. Viscosity would matter if you were to say race the car and get the oil really hot (275+ deg F) and thin the oil down much more than normal street driving would (~200 deg F). That's when you need higher viscosity oil to prevent bearing metal-to-metal contact when the oil is abnormally hot. If you're not getting the oil any hotter than say 230 deg F then 10W-30 would work just fine.

Too bad you didn't have access to some oils sold here. I have no idea what kind of oil is available in Taiwan, but there must be some kind of selection to choose from.

And again, make sure to cut open the oil filter next oil change ... a lot can be told from inspecting inside the filter.
 
"did you ever start using a good quality oil that the engine manufacturer specifies instead of oil that may not be proper for that engine".

when did you stop beating your wife ?
 
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