U Dont Need To Prefill Oil Filter..Scotty Kilmer

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: sxg6
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
That's a very convenient spot, but I don't see how that doesn't make a huge mess.



I agree.. How on earth can you prefill a filter, then flip it upside down to install it without making a mess?

Prefilling is a waste of time in my opinion, unnecessary.

One can theoretically just wet the filter media to save the time it might take for a dry filter to soak oil before it flows through. I've partially filled filters mounted horizontally, so there's a way.

 

[sxg6]

I thought of that, but I wouldn't call that pre-filling. More like, pre-wetting..

I just say install the filter dry and let the bypass kick in..

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: PolarisX
I agree, unless specified its probably fine NOT to pre fill. I do anytime it makes sense by filter orientation because it gives me the warm and fuzzies.

That guys voice is very hard to listen to sometimes, the start of his videos is downright agonizing. Stop yelling at me old man!


Pat goss on motor week and the gerviskis guy on a boating show also yell. I hate it.

 

[Garak]

He's right, but even a stopped clock is right twice a day.

 

[Gasbuggy]

Waste of time that won't impact engine life you will enjoy.

 

[Olas]

You don't need to do anything but good practice is still good practice. The people who aren't bothered usually employ jiffy lube and report the disasters we hear about with loose drain plugs and lost fluids and double gasketted filters and so on.
It's about pride in your work and having high standards.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Olas
You don't need to do anything but good practice is still good practice. The people who aren't bothered usually employ jiffy lube and report the disasters we hear about with loose drain plugs and lost fluids and double gasketted filters and so on.
It's about pride in your work and having high standards.


Putting potential contaminants on the clean side (for no material benefit if it was guaranteed clean) isn't good practice.

Per the cat video, putting it on the dirty side makes more sense, but an extra 5 seconds without pressure ain't going to make a difference.

 

[steve20]

an extra 5 seconds.... times how many oil changes in the first 100 K miles--? 10 to 20
10-20 X 5 seconds = total of at least 1 minute running without oil
Steve

 

[BrocLuno]

It's not running w/o oil. It's running on residual film, just like any cold start until pumped and sling oil get circulated ...

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
It's not running w/o oil. It's running on residual film, just like any cold start until pumped and sling oil get circulated ...

Of course most people change the oil while it's relatively hot. I do generally wait for the exhaust to cool down, but still when the coolant gauge is at full operating temp if restarted. When warm is probably the best time because there's more residual oil and the antiwear additives are at the most effective temperature.

I remember the factory-recommended fluid flush technique for a Honda power steering system was to remove the return line and hook it up to a hose to collect the fluid. It was basically running the system dry until it started groaning. Of course it's fine as long as it's running on that residual fluid for less than a minute, but it sure sounds like it's damaging itself in the process.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: steve20
an extra 5 seconds.... times how many oil changes in the first 100 K miles--? 10 to 20
10-20 X 5 seconds = total of at least 1 minute running without oil
Steve


So you are assuming
a) the residual oil is absent (it's not, every engine I've pulled apart leaves me an oily mess...by definition, they've been shut down hot).
b) the tenacious tribofilms are completely depleted in that few seconds.
c) that a minute is significant in light of the above.

 

[Trav]

My question is why was it very common year ago for engines to knock for a few seconds when the engine first started after an oil change and immediately went quiet when the oil light went out and the engine got pressure again. I cant see how that wasn't damaging the engine bearings to some extent.
Some of these old lumps had low oil pressure and poor flow right out of the box, the Buicks with the 2 gear oil pump in the timing cover was undersized and one of the worst unless a modded oil pump extension, longer gears and new cover was installed.
How long does the residual oil film last? Am I wrong in assuming that film was broken if it was knocking?

Not trying to start an argument just trying to understand if there may be a difference in the types oil pumps back then vs today changes things.

 

[tig1]

Trav,
I don't recall ever hearing an engine make noise when started after an oil change. I started doing my on about 1965. Just sayin.

 

[Trav]

Not all of them made noise mostly the higher mile ones with a good amount of bearing wear I'm sure but it was very common.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
He's totally off the mark. IMO

Starts @ 1:20



Yep, he's wrong about the filter draining out at every shutdown (unless the ADBV is defective), and about the filter flow mostly bypassing - he obviously really doesn't know how and when the filter bypass valve comes into play. Neither of those things happen like that. Scotty needs to hang out in the BITOG oil filter forum more often.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
That's a very convenient spot, but I don't see how that doesn't make a huge mess.


There's not much oil in the filter since gravity drains it.


I've got the same setup on my Tacoma V6. If I don't punch a hole in the top to allow the filter to drain, the ADBV will hold oil and cause it to puke when removed. Same "punch the top" trick was used on the old RX-7s that also had the base down filter mounting setup.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: sxg6
I thought of that, but I wouldn't call that pre-filling. More like, pre-wetting..

I just say install the filter dry and let the bypass kick in..

The filter's bypass valve isn't going to kick in because there's not enough delta-p across the media on start-up (low RPM, low flow) ... unless you started the engine with oil at -20 deg F or hit redline in 1/2 second.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: sxg6
I thought of that, but I wouldn't call that pre-filling. More like, pre-wetting..

I just say install the filter dry and let the bypass kick in..

The filter's bypass valve isn't going to kick in because there's not enough delta-p across the media on start-up (low RPM, low flow) ... unless you started the engine with oil at -20 deg F or hit redline in 1/2 second.
... true, but whether that happens has very little or nothing to do with whether the filter was pre-filled. Air can pass through the media even easier than oil does.

 

[DoubleWasp]

We did an oil change on my friend's AP1 S2000, and that thing sounded like it ate a hammer until it got oil pressure. He told me it's always done that for the 15 years he has owned it.

 

[Hollow]

I prefill my 2.5 Subaru because the filter is completely level and I can fill it.

I do not prefill my 3.0 Subaru as the filter mounts horizontally and can only take a bit of oil initially before it spills out. It does clatter a bit at the very first start up after an oil change.