Any reason I shouldn't run Red Line?

[metalbender]

Long time lurker, newer poster. I know I'm probably gonna get flamed for this, but here goes:

Recently picked up a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD w/ 163,000 miles to replace a totaled 2002 Volvo V70 N/A w/ 263,000 miles. The 2002 had Red Line 5w40 in it year round. Pegasus Auto Racing is less than an hour away, and yes, I know RL is overkill. As of yet, I haven't been bothered by the price. So this is me-

1. As above, 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD (I didn't want a turbo, but here I am...)
2. Manual recommends GF-3, API SL, ACEA A1/B1, 5W-30 from -22F to 86F
3. I live in Wisconsin, where within a 4 month span, it could be -22F; to 86F. Or close to it. It has cleared 100F; on rare occasions, but will hit 90s easily in summer.
4. How do I drive? I try to drive like a featherfoot for fuel economy. But sometimes I do clown around. Possibly most aggressive on snow.
5. My daily drive could include anything, short trips, days full of stop and go, or hours on interstate
6. Car is new to me, nothing mechanical that I am aware of. Yet.

Other points are I get oem/Volvo/IPD parts, Mahle oil and air filters. I run Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium gasoline. In the last Volvo, I would throw in a bottle of Techron just before 9K OCI. Never have done OCA. I do know I don't want oil coking in the turbo. Not looking to tune outside of adding polyurethane inserts to engine mounts. Share with me your wisdom, please.

 

[SZR48207]

If you have the money for it, go for it man. Redline makes great products so you are getting your money's worth.

The bigger question is - are you in any way curious if you could get comparable protection from a less-expensive product?

 

[metalbender]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45
If you have the money for it, go for it man. Redline makes great products so you are getting your money's worth.

The bigger question is - are you in any way curious if you could get comparable protection from a less-expensive product?


Yes, I would like to see some options; that would be great. Please.

 

[oil_film_movies]

5w40 Redline is too thick for your A1/B1 application.
0w30 Redline recommended. see https://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Motor Oil PDS 5-13.pdf
and notice the -76 degree pout point. Wow, great for Wisconsin winters and a tough high temp oil too.

 

[umungus1122]

You could just get M1 or Castrol 0w-40 at Wallymart and have the engine last just as long.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Options? Many. I'd recommend using Castrol Edge 0w40 if you race it or drive it hard a lot, and maybe switch it to M1 AFE 0w30 in the winter.

 

[metalbender]

Yeah, I saw their website is recommending 10w30; obviously not opposed to switching viscosity

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Nothing wrong with Redline at all.

Other good A1/B1 oils are Castrol Edge 5w30 and PP 5w30. In fact, PP is also A5/B5, which is a step up from A1/B1

 

[d00df00d]

to BITOG!

No, there's no big reason not to run Red Line. It's good stuff.

My feeling would be to look for an off-the-shelf xw-30 synthetic with Honda HTO-06 approval. I say that mainly because you said you were concerned about coking in the turbo. Anything that meets those criteria would likely be way better than what the engine was designed for, not to mention cheaper and more easily available than Red Line. If you could find one that comes in a 5-qt jug, so much the better.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d

to BITOG!

No, there's no big reason not to run Red Line. It's good stuff.

My feeling would be to look for an off-the-shelf xw-30 synthetic with Honda HTO-06 approval. I say that mainly because you said you were concerned about coking in the turbo. Anything that meets those criteria would likely be way better than what the engine was designed for, not to mention cheaper and more easily available than Red Line. If you could find one that comes in a 5-qt jug, so much the better.


I agree. But if you like RL and aren't worried about paying up for it, go for it!

 

[metalbender]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
5w40 Redline is too thick for your A1/B1 application.
0w30 Redline recommended. see https://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Motor Oil PDS 5-13.pdf
and notice the -76 degree pout point. Wow, great for Wisconsin winters and a tough high temp oil too.


I should have added that the manual recommends 0W-30 and 0w40 from 'off the scale below 0' to 104F, 5W-40 from -10F to 104F, and 10W-30 from -4F to 104F. In the last Volvo, I thought the car was just slightly harder to start w/ RL 10W-30 in really cold weather, I worry that the 0Ws will be too thin in high heat, especially in stop and go Chicago traffic. I would love something I could run year round, maybe even buy by the case.

This car is just different enough from the previous Volvo where I started wondering what I need to tweak.

 

[BrocLuno]

So turbo coking has two main elements.

1.) is the routing of the oil feed and drain lines such that they leave a pool of oil in the bearing case on hot shut down. As long as the oil drain is straight out the bottom and has no bends or sweeps that will trap oil, it's good to go. Go look. Kinked or flat oil return lines are a big no-no and no oil will cure that ...

2.) turbos need cool down time before shut off. Not a big deal because usually, by the time you are parked, they have come down plenty. Just don't go up any big hill with the turbo pegged and then shut it off ...

If both of these conditions are good, you're fine. I run Rotella T-6 in my Turbo Saab now. And I ran it in my last turbo Volvo. That car went 287,000 miles and finally would no long pass smog inspection (with gutted CAT). Up to that point it was fine and the turbo was working just as required. It needed tranny, rear end work and new CAT - not worth it, so it got donated.

These things go many 100,000's of miles in big rigs w/o incident. Unless there is a problem, it will in your car too

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: metalbender
I worry that the 0Ws will be too thin in high heat, especially in stop and go Chicago traffic. I would love something I could run year round, maybe even buy by the case.

The 0wX oils are actually very robust at high temperatures. Absolutely not a problem. 0w allows better flow on cold starts for less start up wear.
Best deals on M1 AFE 0w30 are the 5 quart jugs at walmart, very cheap. They also have Castrol Edge 0w40 cheap in 5quart jugs. Amazon.com has great prices on Castrol 0w40 5quart jugs as well.

 

[Bud]

Not a thing wrong with Red line except the price.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: metalbender
I should have added that the manual recommends 0W-30 and 0w40 from 'off the scale below 0' to 104F, 5W-40 from -10F to 104F, and 10W-30 from -4F to 104F. In the last Volvo, I thought the car was just slightly harder to start w/ RL 10W-30 in really cold weather, I worry that the 0Ws will be too thin in high heat, especially in stop and go Chicago traffic. I would love something I could run year round, maybe even buy by the case.


You need to read up on what "W" means then. It will have no difference in high ambient temperatures nor stop and go Chicago traffic. If the manual recommends 0W-40 then go to Walmart and get either Castrol or Mobil 1, whichever is cheaper - and run it year-round. Those are two of the finest oils on the market anywhere.

And yes your perception is correct, a 10W-30 will be harder to start than a 5W-30 or a 0W-30 or a 0W-40 in really cold weather.

 

[Nickdfresh]

I'm sure Redline is a quality product, but it's expensive and you can check UOA's here and find nothing exceptional about them. Personally I'd use Mobil 1 0W-40, only because they have a generous rebate. Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30/40 are also good choices...

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
...
and notice the -76 degree pout point...


Meh, not buying those numbers...

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I'm sure Redline is a quality product, but it's expensive and you can check UOA's here and find nothing exceptional about them. Personally I'd use Mobil 1 0W-40, only because they have a generous rebate. Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30/40 are also good choices...


Yeah, I sorta like Pepboy's price, it's $33 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter and you get their $15 rebate instead of just $12 for the 5 quart jug. What's the equivalent price of Red Line? Otherwise Castrol is about $23 at Walmart.

 

[xtell]

If the manual states to go with a 5W-30, go with the Red Line 5w-30 if you like Red Line products. Otherwise any major brand synthetic 5w-30 will be suitable especially if it carries the HTO-6 specification.

 

[Big_3_Only]

metalbender,

My 2 cents...go to Amaliestore.com. Can't beat their prices. Free shipping, no tax. Fast shipping. Amalie has only been around since 1903, and they are still one of the very best oils you can buy. RL is good oil, but why pay that much?? Amalie has been in all my vehicles (motor oil, trans, differential, brake fluid), mowers, ATVs, 2 cycle weedeaters, for hundreds of thousands of miles total. Amalie is a thing of beauty!