5w40 vs 10w30 in CBR

[V1]

Thank you! Thought I was going nuts for a minute.

I doubt there is a clutch issue, per se. I've been pretty nice to my clutch, and T6 is labeled JASO MA. It might need a cable adjustment, if anything. My guess.

I've been more curious about the weight than anything since I'm so "by the book" with stuff like this. Shearing was substantial with the 30-weight, so I figured a 40 would settle right into the 30 range. Lots of folks on sport bikes rave about T6 being so wonderful, so I had to try for myself. The exception being I will sample it. Haven't seen a T6 UOA out of a sport bike.

 

[02SE]

My experience with the Rotella 5w40 in one of my Sportbikes, is that the shifting quickly became notchy. The 15w40 lasted just a bit longer before becoming notchy too. I wasn't particularly impressed with either. I haven't tried a 10w30, because the bike I've tried these oils in, seems to like a higher viscosity oil.

 

[Mackelroy]

T6 lost a full grade inside of 1100 miles on my VFR, I run 2 quarts 10w40 and 1 quart 20w50 for longevity as a norm.

I while back I did 2 quarts redline 10w30 and 1 quart redline 20w50 for longevity, at 2,000 + miles it was a high 30 weight, which is about what to be expected.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
T6 lost a full grade inside of 1100 miles on my VFR, I run 2 quarts 10w40 and 1 quart 20w50 for longevity as a norm.

I while back I did 2 quarts redline 10w30 and 1 quart redline 20w50 for longevity, at 2,000 + miles it was a high 30 weight, which is about what to be expected.


I have a VFR(1996) too, do you specifically use auto oil and how often do you drain/change it? What do you use for your 10W40 and 20W50 brew?

 

[V1]

Posted some UOA's. GN4 seems to be a decent oil in and of itself. It will be interesting to see how the T6 compares to the base line.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...-30#Post4361715