So, don't use an extractor because it might leave dirty oil behind but leave the dirty oil in the filter for two or three changes.
Vacuum top of the engine extracton vs. drain
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^^ I have no problems with an extractor either, we use one in the boat. But for my vehicles I see no point. Removing the drain plug is a quite simple, and since I use the extractor for transmissions and filling transfer cases its one less thing to clean.
^^ X2 ^^ I use my 8qt Liquivac on transmissions, power steering pumps, differentials etc. My oil filter is about 12" from my drain plug and easy to access. I can pull the oil drain plug and change the filter on my 5.3 Chevy truck in 5 to 10 minutes easily. However I can see how some applications would benefit from a vacuum system. It also works great on OPE.
^^ X2 ^^ I use my 8qt Liquivac on transmissions, power steering pumps, differentials etc. My oil filter is about 12" from my drain plug and easy to access. I can pull the oil drain plug and change the filter on my 5.3 Chevy truck in 5 to 10 minutes easily. However I can see how some applications would benefit from a vacuum system. It also works great on OPE.
if you feel a little dirty oil left behind is an issue, then what about the 10 miles before your change when you engine was running on 100% of that same dirty oil.
The key is convenience and time/hassle savings.
If you end up under the car anyway, then you're not getting much benefit.
If you've come up with a sequence where the extractor saves you a bunch of the undercar steps, or other hassle, then it's worth it to you.
If somehow, you're using the extractor then going back under and removing the plug then
.
The key is convenience and time/hassle savings.
If you end up under the car anyway, then you're not getting much benefit.
If you've come up with a sequence where the extractor saves you a bunch of the undercar steps, or other hassle, then it's worth it to you.
If somehow, you're using the extractor then going back under and removing the plug then
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Kestas
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It's been reported that some Mercedes models are designed for vacuum extraction, to the point that more fluid is extracted than you could drain out. Some have verified this by opening the drain plug after extraction, and they find no more fluid comes out.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
It's been reported that some Mercedes models are designed for vacuum extraction, to the point that more fluid is extracted than you could drain out. Some have verified this by opening the drain plug after extraction, and they find no more fluid comes out.
My LR4 is that way. A small tube internally from oil fill cap mouth runs to bottom of pan. I hook up my plastic tubing to this tube and let it suck. 8 qts out and 8qts in. Cartridge filter is on top of engine. Quick and easy. No contamination as plastic tubing is not shoved thru the engine.
It's been reported that some Mercedes models are designed for vacuum extraction, to the point that more fluid is extracted than you could drain out. Some have verified this by opening the drain plug after extraction, and they find no more fluid comes out.
My LR4 is that way. A small tube internally from oil fill cap mouth runs to bottom of pan. I hook up my plastic tubing to this tube and let it suck. 8 qts out and 8qts in. Cartridge filter is on top of engine. Quick and easy. No contamination as plastic tubing is not shoved thru the engine.
I'm a cave man. I jack up my Benz and change it the old fashioned way.
But if this extraction thing is true, I might need to change my ways.
But if this extraction thing is true, I might need to change my ways.
People have been vacuum draining marine engines since the 1920's at least. You can't "get under there" with lots of boat engines... There is also good evidence that leaving 10% old oil helps with the AW regimen.
All motors make AW compounds based on their internal operation conditions (heat, pressures, oil used, etc.). These compounds are not available in new oil. So you leave the filter, change the oil, come back a week later and change the filter. You've made the transition and had active AW compounds the whole time.
That 100cc residual is your friend. And any well maintained car or truck does not have "crud" in the pan. It should be shiny steel with a hint of gold varnish sheen at around 100,000 miles. If it's actually "cruddy" you have other issues that need attention ...
Extract from SAE Paper: decomposition products of the ZnDTP dissolved in the oil and the antiwear property was maintained even after 80 h of heating. These results suggest that the decomposition products of ZnDTP form complexes with a dispersant and the lubrication properties of the used engine oils are maintained by the complexes. (emphasis mine)
All motors make AW compounds based on their internal operation conditions (heat, pressures, oil used, etc.). These compounds are not available in new oil. So you leave the filter, change the oil, come back a week later and change the filter. You've made the transition and had active AW compounds the whole time.
That 100cc residual is your friend. And any well maintained car or truck does not have "crud" in the pan. It should be shiny steel with a hint of gold varnish sheen at around 100,000 miles. If it's actually "cruddy" you have other issues that need attention ...
Extract from SAE Paper: decomposition products of the ZnDTP dissolved in the oil and the antiwear property was maintained even after 80 h of heating. These results suggest that the decomposition products of ZnDTP form complexes with a dispersant and the lubrication properties of the used engine oils are maintained by the complexes. (emphasis mine)
Maybe I'm a cheapskate or maybe I just think straight but when a drain plug is included after the R&D and accountants have looked it, and the old "the engineers must have done it for a reason" argument, I use the provided plug.
VW states that a oil change now requires a new drain plug, at least on the MK7 Golfs. Add another $4.95 to your costs. (its a plastic plug and pan with an oil built into the plug. Better design that avoids over-torquing, at least)
I've done one drain, and one suction so far. I will be going to suction only starting at my next change. Filter on top, I only lift the car to rotate tires now.
I've done one drain, and one suction so far. I will be going to suction only starting at my next change. Filter on top, I only lift the car to rotate tires now.
Originally Posted By: zaffo757
Luckily most filters are easy to access even if you don't jack it up. ... I have to drop a skid plate on my 4Runner. PITA.
That first sentence used to be true (with some notable exceptions), but is increasingly obsolete. Now, if not a skid plate, a thin plastic underpanel with numerous balky fasteners has to be taken down for access to the filter on many models, including my car.
Luckily most filters are easy to access even if you don't jack it up. ... I have to drop a skid plate on my 4Runner. PITA.
That first sentence used to be true (with some notable exceptions), but is increasingly obsolete. Now, if not a skid plate, a thin plastic underpanel with numerous balky fasteners has to be taken down for access to the filter on many models, including my car.
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