OCI on little used vehicle

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ALR

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Sep 27, 2015
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Hi all, I have a 2011 Silverado I bought in 11/15 with 111k miles on it and it was very clean, near showroom fresh. I bought it from a Dodge dealer because thats where I found it. To date I havent put 3k miles on it. oil monitor says 24% remaining and dipstick shows no oil loss/used. It runs very well with its 5.3 liter engine. My question is if the oil monitor shows 24% left why should I change it? any trips I make the engine warms up enough to running temps. Oil on dipstick looks a little dirty but not overly. I dont know what filter dealer put on it but probably Mopar. I searched and pretty sure Mopar oil is Mobile and dont know if they used dino or syn, I dont even know if dealers only stock syn or what. I am retired so no long hiway drives any more...
Thanks in advance!
 
Why change it?

Because engine oil is cheap and engines aren't. New oil is cheap insurance and this is from someone that will go long intervals before changing. Except when it comes to how long the oil has been in there time wise. At the year mark I'd change out a syn-blend, likely what's in there as they're so common. A full syn I'd go 1.5 yrs. Longer if the car sits for long periods at a time, ie being in storage.
 
Do you know if they used Dexos rated oil or not ?
I'd start with a clean slate and change it if it was mine.
 
Yeah, my Camaro's like that. I put only 1880 miles on it last year and let it go 15 months. It's got an 8 qt sump so it's an expensive oil change. I hate to toss all that good oil. I should probably save it and run it back through my Tahoe.
 
My first suggestion is to sell it.

If you don't sell it, I suggest changing it once a year.
 
I would worry more about the brakes.

Flush the brake fluid every 2 years.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Need to worry about internal corrosion.
 
Interesting replys. I'm going to change it very soon anyway. FYI I'm going to Valvoline himilage synthetic after searching here. The engine has the system that drops 4 cylinders on cruising. The lifters is what I think is what drop out and I want to be sure of cleanliness in that arena.
 
My two cents worth is that you need to send in an oil sample for analyzation to a testing laboratory. Warm the vehicle up fully to operating temperature, safely jack it up, clean around the drain plug with solvent or brake cleaner, then take a CLEAN mason jar or suitable clean container and LOOSEN (not remove) the drain plug and drain a sample of 4 oz. or so.

There will be many on BITOG who will argue that you can change the oil for nearly the same price as the used oil analysis, but the idea here isn't to spend or save few dollars. The idea is to set precedent, learn the condition of your oil, and THEN make an informed decision about what to do. Until if and when you have test lab results, anything and everything that anyone tells you is speculation.

There is another fellow on here who ran his (little used) oil for five years and it is still good. Do whatever lets you sleep at night. My advice is worth what you have paid for it. Peace. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4190879/1992_Surburban_Big_Block_-_M1_
 
Originally Posted By: ALR
Interesting replys. I'm going to change it very soon anyway. FYI I'm going to Valvoline himilage synthetic after searching here. The engine has the system that drops 4 cylinders on cruising. The lifters is what I think is what drop out and I want to be sure of cleanliness in that arena.

Very nice. I'd start with a clean slate, change the oil. Then use a synthetic and change it once a year, which is what many of the new vehicles today call for if you don't hit a certain amount of miles or zero out the OLM first.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My first suggestion is to sell it.

If you don't sell it, I suggest changing it once a year.
At least its not a money pit Cherokee (had a few). Since I stuck to Chevys, my repair incidents have dropped 95%
whistle.gif
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: ALR
Interesting replys. I'm going to change it very soon anyway. FYI I'm going to Valvoline himilage synthetic after searching here. The engine has the system that drops 4 cylinders on cruising. The lifters is what I think is what drop out and I want to be sure of cleanliness in that arena.

Very nice. I'd start with a clean slate, change the oil. Then use a synthetic and change it once a year, which is what many of the new vehicles today call for if you don't hit a certain amount of miles or zero out the OLM first.
Thank you, I was going to go through all the fluids in a while.
 
Change it so you know where you are starting from. Pennz Ultra could prolly go two years easy. But Maxlife syn-blend can prolly do the same...

I have a seldom used pick-up that gets oil changes every four or five years. I wait for the oil to change color, and that's about how long it takes. I know oil color is not an indication of condition, but it's something to key in on for me. I suspect yours could go as long, BUT with cylinder deactivation, I would not chance it.

I'd run the best high detergency oil I could and Pennz Ultra is right up there
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I do 3k mile changes for the Jeep. Hours of idle time (it's my air compressor ), all short trips/cold weather or long trip of trail driving/ off road operation. So far it is taking over 2 years to accumulate the 3k miles, still counting.
 
Originally Posted By: ALR
Thank you, I was going to go through all the fluids in a while.


Smart move!
 
I believe 2011 puts it into the dexos range for years. I would change it once a year with the Pennzoil gold and a Delco filter.
 
GM now at least recommends 1yr or 7,500 miles on thier vehicles, if the OLM does not go off. On my taurus i Just bought im doing a 3k oil change w/ Pennzoil HM, when i get to 150k im going to change the leaking valve cover gaskets and do 5k oil changes with PYB.
 
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