Do you gap your plugs?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'd find it hard to believe that any car that new is running rich enough to smell gas and not throwing codes out the rear end.

Pulling a plug might give you some idea, although I've seen FI plugs come out all different colors. Most tend toward dark brown-a bit darker than we usually shoot for with a carb, but still more on the brown end than black. There again, if it were running that badly rich, your plug would probably be coal black all over and possibly even wet. I don't know the Fit engine specifically, but a lot of modern engines have the plugs buried deep enough that pulling them for routine inspection isn't a task I want to take on
smile.gif
.

As a general rule, getting a good seal on plugs takes very little torque. I usually see torque specs in the 10-20 ft-lb range, which is low enough that I sometimes find hearing/feeling the click on my torque wrench. The rule of thumb I've heard for new plugs is 1/4 turn past finger tight to seal the crush washer. An old mechanic advised me to use my left hand(or non-dominant hand) and choke it up almost on the head of the socket wrench. Turning it tight(but not forcing it) will be about right.

Remember that FI systems operate at high pressures, and any loss in integrity of a line or joint can cause a leak(albeit often a slow leak). I've seen it happen when folks(I'll plead the 5th on the person to whom I might be referring
smile.gif
) reused an old clip after replacing a fuel filter.
 
So here's a recap / update...

Upon purchasing my manual '07 Sport (89,000 miles), I performed the following within the first 1,000 miles:
Oil Change
Air Filter
Cabin Air Filter
Spark Plugs

My first 4 fill ups averaged 32.7 MPG. That's mainly highway driving and up and down the hills at the foot of the Blue Ridge.

I replaced the plugs with the OEM NGK Laser Iridiums. A buddy who owned a Fit cautioned me about the softness of the aluminum head and not to over torque the plugs as he had stripped one of his. I have to admit that of all the cars' plugs I've changed, the Fit was the most uncertain. There's no "yep, that's tight" feeling to it. I didn't have a torque wrench handy, but 14 ft/lbs is not a lot.

That said, I started smelling gas in the cabin while sitting at idle. I pulled the plugs and sure enough, two cylinders were "loose" and there was soot on the boots. The plugs were also a bit sooty (see attachments).

I reinstalled them, tightened them down more (still without torque wrench), and drove a tank's worth like that (32.8MPG, so no change). I still smell gas, but not as much. The car isn't idling roughly or driving poorly. I'm going to pull them again today and check, clean, and reinstall.

Question: Could having the plug(s) loose foul them in any way? Should I replace those two plugs that were loose?

 
That plug is fine.

I will gap the Malibu's when the time comes.

The other stuff? Nope. I have Densos or NGKs no issues.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Globalksp
Question: Could having the plug(s) loose foul them in any way? Should I replace those two plugs that were loose?

Shouldn't that be more likely to just blow up the coil pack?
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: Globalksp
Question: Could having the plug(s) loose foul them in any way? Should I replace those two plugs that were loose?

Shouldn't that be more likely to just blow up the coil pack?


You got me. The boots on the coil packs were sooty, but the car is running without any noticeable change aside from the smell of gas.
 
Originally Posted By: Globalksp
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: Globalksp
Question: Could having the plug(s) loose foul them in any way? Should I replace those two plugs that were loose?

Shouldn't that be more likely to just blow up the coil pack?


You got me. The boots on the coil packs were sooty, but the car is running without any noticeable change aside from the smell of gas.

I was thinking more like the spark plug shooting out of the tube. Like this one (apparently a 2nd generation Fit like yours):

http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-gener...g-blow-out.html

2671-cylinder-3-spark-plug-blow-out-80-20160113_152043_656912a18d745432cd88c79eda4884c790356159.jpg


At least with direct ignition they tend to stay in place. I'm not sure if a plastic cover will stop a shooting plug, but definitely old-style plug boots would offer no resistance. I've heard that the plug can put a dent on the inside of the hood.
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w

At least with direct ignition they tend to stay in place. I'm not sure if a plastic cover will stop a shooting plug, but definitely old-style plug boots would offer no resistance. I've heard that the plug can put a dent on the inside of the hood.


Woah! Nope, nothing like that happening under my hood... yet.
 
Originally Posted By: Globalksp
Originally Posted By: y_p_w

At least with direct ignition they tend to stay in place. I'm not sure if a plastic cover will stop a shooting plug, but definitely old-style plug boots would offer no resistance. I've heard that the plug can put a dent on the inside of the hood.


Woah! Nope, nothing like that happening under my hood... yet.

I don't think any spark plug is is absolutely air tight by any means. But if it's loose enough I don't think worrying about blow by through the threads is as much a concern as the possibility that it will loosen up, then finally shoot through. And a lot of the common fixes (like Heli-Coil) are supposed to leak more than the factory setup but it still works.
 
Beware that plug gapper may be gapped wrong themselves. I had a brand new one from Advance Auto that was wrong. It was thicker than the .045 that it was supposed to measure.
Just saying to be careful at concluding that the spark plug was manufactured incorrectly when it may be just as likely that the gapper is the one that has the manufacturing error.
 
Nope. OEM Denso Iridiums say that the plugs come pre-gapped. They have some protective plastic tube completely protecting the electrode. Just make sure that the plugs are seated correctly. I used a torque wrench from Autozone and it didn't even tighten it down all the way. Hand tight is good enough.
 
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Nope. OEM Denso Iridiums say that the plugs come pre-gapped. They have some protective plastic tube completely protecting the electrode. Just make sure that the plugs are seated correctly. I used a torque wrench from Autozone and it didn't even tighten it down all the way. Hand tight is good enough.
They do come pre gapped to factory spec. But hwt do you do when the factory plugs are not set to that factory spec and if you do set them to the factory spec you get blowouts? .043" from Denso on new TT plugs, .043 from Hyundai as the spec. The 2L turbo came with the plugs gapped at .028 from the factory.
 
I feel as if you ladies and gents are nuking this out.

Nuke or nuking: To over think, do too much research on something that is simple.
smile.gif


I run a heads/CAM/Intake WS6 with over 400HP to the wheels. Never has seemed to make a difference. Even with the N2O(which is not included in the over 400 at the wheels figure). If I get Denso or NGK I don't gap them. If they don't look bent, in they go.

I would think some of the cars in this thread would run with an inch of gap on water.
smile.gif
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Nope. OEM Denso Iridiums say that the plugs come pre-gapped. They have some protective plastic tube completely protecting the electrode. Just make sure that the plugs are seated correctly. I used a torque wrench from Autozone and it didn't even tighten it down all the way. Hand tight is good enough.
They do come pre gapped to factory spec. But hwt do you do when the factory plugs are not set to that factory spec and if you do set them to the factory spec you get blowouts? .043" from Denso on new TT plugs, .043 from Hyundai as the spec. The 2L turbo came with the plugs gapped at .028 from the factory.

There's usually some tolerance. And going by people who have found plugs where the gap is way off (or even heavily eroded) without any negative effects, it's a pretty big tolerance.
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Nope. OEM Denso Iridiums say that the plugs come pre-gapped. They have some protective plastic tube completely protecting the electrode. Just make sure that the plugs are seated correctly. I used a torque wrench from Autozone and it didn't even tighten it down all the way. Hand tight is good enough.
They do come pre gapped to factory spec. But hwt do you do when the factory plugs are not set to that factory spec and if you do set them to the factory spec you get blowouts? .043" from Denso on new TT plugs, .043 from Hyundai as the spec. The 2L turbo came with the plugs gapped at .028 from the factory.

There's usually some tolerance. And going by people who have found plugs where the gap is way off (or even heavily eroded) without any negative effects, it's a pretty big tolerance.
It's not tolerance of the factory gap. The turbo will blow out the wide factory gap. It's always an issue when someone installs new plugs and gaps the to factory specs (.043). The factory reduced the gap (.028) before installing the OE DensoTT.
 
I just changed mine out after about 90k miles but more than 10 winters. The ACDelco iridium plugs didn't need to be gapped. I checked 1 very carefully and it was .060 as specified for the 3.4L

With new plugs, wires, and oil change the car has its power back. The old ones were rusty but not burnt up. The rear bank were not changed whenever the front three were changed. They had a little more rust and carbon built up. Not very impressed by that but considering they were factory plugs in for 150k with little or no issue I wasn't too worried.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top