Difference of "Engine Core" -vs "Engine Block"?

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I'm thinking of buying a short-block engine to rebuild in my spare time for my 2004 Toyota truck. I have the 2.4 L 2RZ-FE motor. I'm looking for the short block because the prices seem considerably cheaper than the complete motors. I"m thinking I'd just rebuild the short block with a kit like "Master Rebuild Kit - 2RZ 1995-2004" ( https://www.lceperformance.com/Master-Rebuild-Kit-2RZ-1995-2004-p/1010009.htm ) , and then transfer the existing parts from my well running motor (cylinder head, intake system, etc.) to the rebuild and cruise on down the road.

When I look for on http://car-part.com , I see they list "Engine Core" and "Engine Block" and some of the descriptions seem to use the words "core" and "block" interchangeably. Based on the descriptions, they sound like the same thing, but *I* think of an "Engine Block" as just that...the bare block (i.e., no crankshaft, pistons, rods, etc.), but I"m not sure that's what they're describing...or are they?

Also, is there any way to decide if a rebuild kit like this is worth the $$$ or should I buy the needed parts a different way?

Thank you,
Ed
 
Core usually describe the part you turn back in. So your old assembly.

You sure your head is good? I always like the long block option. If you are that far into it, it might be worth it.

Also you have to consider the amount of time it will take you to rebuild your bottom end. Will the crank require machine shop services?
Do you have all the tools required?


On that site they all look used. So I would consider them a core. Which to me means they may need some type of machining.
 
"Short block engine" = block with pistons crank rods bearings etc. in place and (hopefully) ready to use. No head or external parts.
"Core" = any worn out part to be returned to a rebuilder for credit after buying a rebuilt one.

Using a rebuild kit is complicated and will require you to find a local machine shop to bore your block.

Very few used part suppliers would warranty a short block. You can buy and install a complete engine and if it turns out to be bad and you didn't take it apart, exchange it. This should only be done with a local place. Many mail order places are selling junk engines knowing that the shipping cost will be prohibitive to deal with a return.
 
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Get a complete wrecking yard engine and rebuild the whole thing including the head. You may be able to just dingle hone the cylinders and re-ring (?), plus new bearings and all. But the head will need to be done right to get back lost performance due to wear. Valve guides, seats, valves all need to be done on any high mileage motor you plan to drive for any time ...

And having your local machine shop do a real nice job on a head will actually net you a slight increase in performance and gas mileage.

Many master kits are so-so, if not actual junk ... You can come at this many ways, but just kitting the bottom end is not enough.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Get a complete wrecking yard engine and rebuild the whole thing including the head. You may be able to just dingle hone the cylinders and re-ring (?), plus new bearings and all. But the head will need to be done right to get back lost performance due to wear. Valve guides, seats, valves all need to be done on any high mileage motor you plan to drive for any time ...

And having your local machine shop do a real nice job on a head will actually net you a slight increase in performance and gas mileage.

Many master kits are so-so, if not actual junk ... You can come at this many ways, but just kitting the bottom end is not enough.


Was going to something very similar about getting the junkyard/pulled engine. I know for my Fusion, a reman long block is about $3000 (2500 w/ core refund) via RockAuto, but I can get a full used engine for less than $600 from a ton of different places, delivered. This way, you get the whole engine, which IMHO can give you a decent picture regarding how it was treated and whether it's already in decent shape.
 
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