2015 Subaru Forester, which oil to use?

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Hello folks,

I have 2015 Subaru Forester. So far, I have been doing the oil change at the dealer, but now would like to start doing it myself.

The owner's manual states I should use 0W-20 oil but over Forester forum, folks are using all ranges of viscosity, most common being 5W-30. I found occasional mentions of 0W-40 or 10W-30. I live in NY and most of the runs are short, in stop-and-go traffic. Annual mileage on this vehicle is about 7000miles. Checking out Forester forum confused me even more.

So I wonder for the type of use this vehicle has and the type of weather that I live in, what type of oil should I use? I usually change oil only once a year. Should that be changed too, to twice a year? Always heard changing oil at 3000miles is an overkill so I started practicing once a year oil change. I plan to take this vehicle to the grave. So looking for a recommendation that will keep the engine running well.

Many thanks in advance.
 
The turbocharged 2.5 uses 5w30....same oiling system in both so yours should do well on that also.

For a yearly change, synthetic is the way to go. Lots of choices here; I prefer Amsoil.
 
If you are concerned at all with potential warranty claims on the engine, follow the owners manual, which is 0w-20 oil and intervals of 6,000 miles or six months. Those viscosity recommendations on the Forester Forum must be for older models. My 2.5i spends almost all of its time in temperatures above 40 degrees, so my next oil change will be with 5w-20. But I'm not worried about a warranty issue.

You likely would be fine using any name brand synthetic 0w-20 or 5w-20, a Subaru oil filter and just changing it at 6k miles. I'm using a synthetic blend filter (Castrol SFX).
 
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...

Last time I was at a WM to buy oil, I noticed that regular Mobil 1 was consistently $3 more per 5 qt jug than the other name brand "synthetics" like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge. This was for all weights from 0W-20 to 0-W-40. I'm irrationally brand loyal to Mobil, but I weren't I might just go with any of them without regret.

I remember the days when I could find the big name conventional oils for around $1 a qt. Then it was extremely cheap to DIY. It's still pretty cost effective when quick lube shops are charging $60 for an oil change with 0W-20.

I'm wondering how the new Subaru oil filter location works. It looks easy to access, but a potential mess unless a diaper is wrapped around the base to soak up the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...

Last time I was at a WM to buy oil, I noticed that regular Mobil 1 was consistently $3 more per 5 qt jug than the other name brand "synthetics" like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge. This was for all weights from 0W-20 to 0-W-40. I'm irrationally brand loyal to Mobil, but I weren't I might just go with any of them without regret.

I remember the days when I could find the big name conventional oils for around $1 a qt. Then it was extremely cheap to DIY. It's still pretty cost effective when quick lube shops are charging $60 for an oil change with 0W-20.

I'm wondering how the new Subaru oil filter location works. It looks easy to access, but a potential mess unless a diaper is wrapped around the base to soak up the oil.



I've never had to take any extra precautions when removing the oil filter on my '13 Outback, which has the same filter arrangement. When I remove the filter, a small amount of oil will run into the catch basin. The rim is more than sufficient to capture it all. Before installing the new filter, I'll wipe up any oil from the catch basin and the gasket sealing surface, with a paper shop towel.

It is definitely far, far less messy than cleaning up the mess from when I remove the filter on my 3400 Alero engine. On it, I have to wipe the oil that runs down the front of the engine. Then I have to wipe all the oil that drips onto the cross member that is under the engine. It is probably 3-5 times as much oil to clean up.
 
Originally Posted By: BHopkins
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...

Last time I was at a WM to buy oil, I noticed that regular Mobil 1 was consistently $3 more per 5 qt jug than the other name brand "synthetics" like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge. This was for all weights from 0W-20 to 0-W-40. I'm irrationally brand loyal to Mobil, but I weren't I might just go with any of them without regret.

I remember the days when I could find the big name conventional oils for around $1 a qt. Then it was extremely cheap to DIY. It's still pretty cost effective when quick lube shops are charging $60 for an oil change with 0W-20.

I'm wondering how the new Subaru oil filter location works. It looks easy to access, but a potential mess unless a diaper is wrapped around the base to soak up the oil.



I've never had to take any extra precautions when removing the oil filter on my '13 Outback, which has the same filter arrangement. When I remove the filter, a small amount of oil will run into the catch basin. The rim is more than sufficient to capture it all. Before installing the new filter, I'll wipe up any oil from the catch basin and the gasket sealing surface, with a paper shop towel.

It is definitely far, far less messy than cleaning up the mess from when I remove the filter on my 3400 Alero engine. On it, I have to wipe the oil that runs down the front of the engine. Then I have to wipe all the oil that drips onto the cross member that is under the engine. It is probably 3-5 times as much oil to clean up.

The big PITA for my 2004 WRX is the removal of the under-spoiler. The bolts are easy enough, but they also use four of these plastic clips. They're easy enough to use when brand new, but after time they get hard and don't work well. And the oil filter location is wedged inside of an exhaust shield.

I kind of wonder about a filter with the base pointing down. I wonder if it would be pointless to prime the filter, or at least wet the media a little bit.

As far as messy goes, I've dealt with various Honda designs where the filter basically drips onto the axle. Or a Buick Regal where the filter is easy to access but is supposed to drip through a hole in a suspension arm. And then a 2001 Camry V6. That one is easy to access, but is designed to drip through a hole in the engine block and down the exhaust manifold.
 
We use M1-AFE and a Fram Ultra 7317 in our Subaru 2.5L. Just change the oil at the factory interval to maintain your warranty - should be 6000 or 7500 miles. Mobil runs $10-$12 rebates a few times per year, just pick up a couple of jugs. Alternately Costco sells 6Q for $25-$26 on sale. You can use Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol too, but rebates are hard to get sometimes so they end up being more expensive. I've never had a problem with Mobil.
 
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Go by the manual recommendations and use any brand name oil you prefer. As for priming a filter, some do, some don't. It's not necessary but if it makes you feel better then why not.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...


+1, use rebates...
 
You really can't just say refer to the manual on these Subaru's. Yes it does say 0w20 but it also says something about during high heat and load that a thicker oil is required. To me if you overwork the 0w20 Subaru could technically say sorry we said you have to use thicker oil when needed. That said I'm still running 0w20 in mine but it does make me thing when crossing the desert while going up a long grade and seeing the oil temp nudge close to 250°.
 
Originally Posted By: BHopkins
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you can go wrong running Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 which can be bought cheap at WM...

Last time I was at a WM to buy oil, I noticed that regular Mobil 1 was consistently $3 more per 5 qt jug than the other name brand "synthetics" like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge. This was for all weights from 0W-20 to 0-W-40. I'm irrationally brand loyal to Mobil, but I weren't I might just go with any of them without regret.

I remember the days when I could find the big name conventional oils for around $1 a qt. Then it was extremely cheap to DIY. It's still pretty cost effective when quick lube shops are charging $60 for an oil change with 0W-20.

I'm wondering how the new Subaru oil filter location works. It looks easy to access, but a potential mess unless a diaper is wrapped around the base to soak up the oil.



I've never had to take any extra precautions when removing the oil filter on my '13 Outback, which has the same filter arrangement. When I remove the filter, a small amount of oil will run into the catch basin. The rim is more than sufficient to capture it all. Before installing the new filter, I'll wipe up any oil from the catch basin and the gasket sealing surface, with a paper shop towel.

It is definitely far, far less messy than cleaning up the mess from when I remove the filter on my 3400 Alero engine. On it, I have to wipe the oil that runs down the front of the engine. Then I have to wipe all the oil that drips onto the cross member that is under the engine. It is probably 3-5 times as much oil to clean up.


I agree, changing the top mount filter on my FXT is an absolute piece of cake and there is very little mess. A quick wipe in the cup with a disposable shop towel is all that's needed. The cup is also handy for catching minor seepage from the filter gasket rather than having it end up on the engine or ground...I used a Wix filter that seeped no matter what I did, and I caught it by noting the residue in the cup instead of drops of oil on my garage floor.
I was worried that the wider WRX oil filters I started using in my FXT wouldn't fit in the cup, but there is still enough clearance to jam a shop towel in there for a minor cleanup if needed. Haven't had any seepage through several of those filters, though...actually never had a filter seep except for the Wix, unfortunately I had bought three and ended up giving the other two away.
 
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I use NAPA 0W20 (on sale) in both my Subaru vehicles. Subaru OEM filters bought in package of 6 on Amazon. Fumoto valve.

Oil change on Subaru Forester is pretty easy. Filter and fill are up front. The drain is in a little cutout under the vehicle.

It requires synthetic oil.
 
I use to belong to Amsoil, but it did not seem to be worth it for me. I only do between 8-9000 miles a yr. I now use what ever is on sale at Wally World and or rebated. I use either 0w20 or 5w20 again not much difference, I live in southern NY. Right now 2 good rebates on Pennzoil and QS. I got 4 5qt hugs for $13 after rebate. I have used5w30 and Ow40 also my car likes 20 weight better, smoother running, and Ceretic at 5000 miles too. Also use a spec oil filter.
 
I've used 5W-30 before in our hot summer months and I travel mostly in the southern states. The manual does say you can use higher visocity in those cases but doesn't give any specifics. However, I feel the FB engine responds better to 0W-20.
 
Until your warranty runs out, use 0w-20 as spec'd. Don't pay attention to what others are using on various forums.I run Mobil 1 on my Legacy.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
I've used 5W-30 before in our hot summer months and I travel mostly in the southern states. The manual does say you can use higher visocity in those cases but doesn't give any specifics. However, I feel the FB engine responds better to 0W-20.

I still wonder about my car - a 2004 WRX. I've heard it came from the factory with some special 5W-40 that can't be bought in the US. The manual also said that the first oil change should occur at exactly 3000 miles. I actually did change it exactly there. However, the owner's manual said the recommended oils were 5W-30, 10W-30, or 10W-40. It also specified (from memory) hot weather and/or towing as suitable - 20W-40, 20W-50, 30, or 40. I think some used diesel-spec 15W-40. I've used Mobil 1 0W-40.

For the most part I'd think most engines are tolerant of a wide range. The viscosity is always changing over the life of an oil change - either thinning as the VII breaks down or thickening as the oil oxidizes and/or smaller molecules vaporizes and leaves larger ones.

My first car was a 1989 Acura Integra. The manual specified 5W-30 or 10W-30 only. I remember the sales guy going over the manual and writing down that 10W-40 or 20W-50 were OK. I brought it in once to that dealer, and their oil for everything was Castrol GTX 20W-50. They were definitely in the "thicker is better" camp.
 
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