Getting into Reloading

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Originally Posted By: dubber09
LNL AP shouldn't include shell plate - you need to buy one.
There are many reloading data tables online and free to use; if you never reloaded - simply watch Youtube - lots of good info for beginners.
You can separate bullet seating and crimping on LNL with Lee FCD die if you wish, I do it with same Hornady die doing seating and crimping. Nice feature on that die is - bullet aligning sleeve.
Personally, I tried Lee, RCBS and Hornady dies (only) and sold all but Hornady and am happy with them.


Sorry, that's what I meant, the press is about $380, then another $30 for the shell plate.

I'll probably stick with Hornady dies, was just curious. As for Dillon vs Hornady, I read that they both have good customer service. I'd have to step up to the XL650 to get something that's comparable in features to the Hornady LnL. I don't think I can go wrong with either.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
How many months did it take you to load 20 to 30 thousand rounds on a Lee? Nothing wrong with Lee products (I have quite a few of their FCD's), but there is also no comparison to Dillon. As reloading goes, one typically starts with a single stage and eventually moves up thus buying and crying more than once. If reloading is indeed a long term proposition for the OP, I would seriously look at Dillon. Their warranty and customer service is top of the line with no equal. I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker in the late 80's (still in use by a partner in crime in Canada), moved to a Hornady Projector, then to a Dillon RL550B, and now a Dillon XL650. If I had to do it all over again I would have bought the Dillon at the beginning--but that is just me.


At 20,000 rounds a month, thats not even 700 rounds a day. If you can't handle that on a turrent press in one evening you got a real problem.
 
Just wanted to update everyone, I did end up getting the Hornady Lock N Load AP. I officially popped out my first rounds of ammo today. I got some Winchester 231 and Hodgdon Titegroup powder to start. I chose those based on availability and that there was reloading data on it for the three rounds (9m, 40 S&W, 10mm) that I plan to reload. I made a small batch of 9mm starting at the recommended starting weight (3.6gr Titegroup) and going up in .2gr increments to just under (4.0gr) the max (4.1gr). After starting I realized that Titegroup probably isn't the ideal powder to start with since the margin for error is tight, and the density allows the case volume to hold a double charge before spilling out, but I'm doing everything manually at the moment (not even using the included powder drop).

You'll notice a small ring around the the middle of the bullet, that appears to be where the bullet seater pressed. I still need to investigate if there's a more appropriate seater shape for the plated Berry's 124gr bullet I'm using. It comes with another one, but it is flat, which seemed more appropriate for a flat nose/hollow point. I'm not too concerned about it, I don't think it'll have any effect.

I haven't started with the 40S&W or 10mm yet, I just picked up the Glock 20 on Monday and haven't shot it yet
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Thanks for all the input in this thread!


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I don't know about the Berry's 124gr bullet but guessing that ring is from the seating die.
The ring may be less pronounced if seating then a taper crimp in two steps instead of both seat & crimp in one step.
If it's light (ring) I wouldn't worry much.
Hard to see the brass case end (pic) - Check the brass case mouth - you don't want it to roll crimp into the bullet for a 9. Different story for cartridges like a 44mag.
If you get a lot of variations in the case crimp, that usually because of the variation on case length.
Plunk test your loads... Take your time and put those calipers and a checked scale to use.
Check spent brass when testing & check the primers etc.
I picked up various LEE crimp dies (which I have never tried). Some day I'll try them.
Good luck and enjoy the hobby.
 
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Oh yeah, the ring is absolutely due to the bullet seating, the bullet is completely smooth before seating. The bullet seat and and taper crimp are the same die, but I think I can pull back the taper crimp so that it just seats the bullet, then separately do the taper crimp as you suggest. I'll try that out tomorrow (plus test out the other included seating stems).

Thanks!
 
I haven't done a lot of reloading, but picked up a LnL based upon a friend's advice who does a lot. I can't compare it to others, but I am very happy with it.

One thing I would recommend is to do a test batch of each round initially, and whenever you make a change, and fire them before you run a big batch. You never know if you have a spec a little off, or if your particular weapon is finicky about a certain parameter. Better to do a few bullet pulls than having to do a large batch.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
At 20,000 rounds a month, thats not even 700 rounds a day. If you can't handle that on a turrent press in one evening you got a real problem.
"700 rounds per evening" equates to how many hours per day x 30 days? Certainly not 1 hour per day which is certainly possible with a Dillon. To each his or her own, but to try an compare a Lee turret press to a Dillon XL650 is not practical in any way.
 
I would like to see someone walk in, sit down, and crank out 700 rounds of ammunition in one hour. This includes filling primer tubes, gathering bullets and placing them within grasp, filling powder measures, taking a leak, answering the phone, doorbell, or wife. Along with a half dozen other things that happen every time most people sit down to reload a large amount of ammunition. It's my belief these numbers are greatly over stated. Especially if you take the time to actually inspect what you're making from time to time.
 
The thing is to use the correct tool for the job. If you shoot less than 1,200 rounds in a year, the Lee turret press is well suited and substantially less than a Dillon.
 
I use a lot of Berry's bullets-or I should say that I use to before I got into casting, and now mostly limit them to 147s in .355 for 38 Super.

With that said, they are quite soft. Load data is scarce for them, but it's often suggested that they be treated more like lead bullets than jacketed bullets. They certainly are a lot softer and more easily deformed than a true jacketed bullet.

I have been a big proponent of Lee dies for a long time, even though I have die sets from most of the brands(including some Redding dies in 38-40). One of the selling points for me is the combined expander/powder through die which I use in combination with an Auto Disk measure(one of the most repeatable and consistent measures I've used). With that said, individual components like seating plugs and expanding plugs are quite inexpensive when bought directly from Lee. The seating plugs are like $1.50 each-I ordered a dozen for 38/357 a while back and have machined several myself for different bullets. Most makers will do the machining for you if you send them a bullet, but Lee also charges a relatively modest amount compared to most of the others.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
I would like to see someone walk in, sit down, and crank out 700 rounds of ammunition in one hour.
Well, if it cannot be done on a Dillon it sure as heck fire cannot be done on a Lee Turret.
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Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Oh yeah, the ring is absolutely due to the bullet seating, the bullet is completely smooth before seating. The bullet seat and and taper crimp are the same die, but I think I can pull back the taper crimp so that it just seats the bullet, then separately do the taper crimp as you suggest. I'll try that out tomorrow (plus test out the other included seating stems).

Thanks!


Do not use the flat bullet seater with a round nose. The seating die also helps to align the bullet with the case. You won’t get that ring on a true jacketed bullet.

My advice would be to not change your process until you have fine tuned and perfected the recommended process. The advice to create small batches until the load and process has been verified is also excellent advice.
 
Thanks guys! I think I figured it out, I had the taper crimp part of the seater die crimping a little too early, so it was already finished crimping when the seater still had a little to go, so it had to push a lot harder. Adjusting it properly stopped the ring from occurring.

I only made 5-10 round of each weight interval so far. I'll probably hit the range tonight to test them out. I'm no fool, I won't make a huge batch of ammo that I have to disassemble!
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Hi Edward,

I have a G20 and a few years of experience loading/reloading ammo for it... My advice:

- Buy more than one loading manual. My favorite two are the Hornady and Lyman manuals, Cross-reference those to the online Hodgdon data.
- An aftermarket barrel would be a good idea. Traditional land and groove rifling vs. polygonal (land and groove is better for shooting lead bullets), tighter chamber. I shoot my handloads/reloads from a Lone Wolf barrel.
- Buy a set of check weights. Every day before you start weighing powder, confirm your scale is weighing accurately. Check it again every so often. Even decent scales can be +/- 0.1 gr depending on the day, time, temperature...
- Inspect your spent brass. Carefully.
- Don't be afraid to throw away brass, bullets, or loads that don't look or feel right.

My favorite 10mm components:
- Hodgdon Longshot powder.
- Hornady bullets.
- Starline brass.
- Winchester or CCI primers.
 
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The 650 Dillon operates in warp speed compared to other presses. Maybe not the 1050 Dillon but much faster than the 550.
 
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