Switch from IAT to HOAT & waterpump.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 16, 2017
Messages
1
Location
CO, USA
Just bought a 98 Chrysler Sebring with Mitsubishi v6. Currenly has green(assuming IAT) coolant. Owners manual is vague, decided to change to Zerex Asian Blue.

It needs timing belt and water pump done soon. Trying to decide best way to get all old green coolant out & refil with 50/50 premixed HOAT while its in the shop.

Do I need a chemical flush, or will enough distilled water sufficiently clear old coolant out?

I was thinking, drain, change water pump, refil with distilled water. Run coolant exchange machine with distlled water until clear, then run 50/50 until consistent blue color; then check freeze protection level.

Will this work? Or is there a better way to ensure all old is out & no cross contamination weakens the new coolant? If I do need chemical flush, where should it be done in the process for the least added labor/wasted new coolant. I was also concerned if chemical flush sat in block for a few days while pump was changed if that would cause any harm? Also didn't want to errode new pump seals with chemical flush..

Thanks, J
 
Yup your plan sounds good; drain, change, refill and flush with distilled until clear, drain radiator, and refill.
 
Once you pull out the water pump won't most of the coolant be out of the block?

If it's warm where you will are I 'd be draining the block now and refilling with distilled water . As long as you are going right into the shop the day after, I don't see an issue (as long as you don't have freezing temps).
 
You've got the right idea, I had to do that with my van.. Some genius topped up with what I assume to be IAT..

Flushed with distilled water before putting type 2 back in it..

Here's the thing about a water pump change.. You/your shop is pretty much gonna have to change the coolant anyway (or cap it off, then top up).

You might as well wait if your about to change out a water pump, just change the fluid with it. my .02.
 
I'd keep on flushing out with water until all the silicate dropout is gone - then try to look for a block drain, many Japanese engines do provide one - on some engines it's obvious(Toyota and Honda), on others you'll need to find a plug that doesn't fit flush with the block. Since Chrysler and Mitsubishi were joined at the hips at one point in time, I assume the latter. Skip this if your coolant exchange machine offers vacuum extraction.
 
Distilled water flush is all you need. No chemical flush required. I have done it numerous times IAT to OAT to HOAT without any problems.

If you are going to get a cam belt and water pump done soon, then just get them to give the system a flush and coolant change as part of the job. They pretty much have to drain the coolant to change the pump anyway.

It''s a bit of overkill, but a day or two before the cam & pump job, you could drain the radiator and refill with distilled water. Then drive as normal, assuming it's above freezing. This will act as a first flush, the workshop will do a second flush a day or two later, and that will be more than enough.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top