Anyone using Mobil 1 15w-50?

[EagleFTE]

Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil can be found at Auto Zone amoung others. Fairly economical JASO dino.

As far as M1 15-50, It works well as noted but it will shear to a 40 pretty fast, even in non shared sumps. I have used it in my Harley evo but still keep the OCIs short due to shearing and low miles / long durations in that bike as it is not a primary rider. The wear numbers from UOAs still look good even with the shearing. Not sure why it shears when the M1 20-50 V-twin does not other than to conclude that it my be a Group III with VI improvers. Something in the base formula makes the V-twin and 4T oils much more shear stable even thought the additive packages are quite similar. PAO instead of GIII???? Twice the cost though over 15-50 auto oil though. 15-50 usually shows about 90 ppm moly but most say clutch operation is fine at that level.

 

[EagleFTE]

A couple of JASO MA oils in the $4.00 range are Valvline MC oil and Brad Penn V-twin MC oil. I'd give the Brad Penn the nod (Group III) of those two but you will have to find a distributor. Just saying if you are trying to save a buck. That said I consider the M1 MC oils to be 5k+ mile or once a year OCIs. The Valvoline and Brad Penn are more like 3K mile or once a year OCIs. Just my opinion there. Others my disagree. But if you ride 3k a year or less you may want to consider the $4.00 options. The 4T M1 is certainly a great oil so you are not going wrong there aside from the $$$. But motorcycles are special right so should we worry about a few bucks a year?

 

[OilNerd]

Guess you got a point there about bikes being special.

ExxonMobil knows this too...

I've got to change a sprocket oil seal and didn't feel like wasting $27 if I get it wrong the first time...

I'll probably give the Valvoline dino a try for the repair. With the times I get to ride now, it'll probably last me a season. I can probably count my riding days left this season on one hand...

 

[Swifter]

Originally Posted By: heavyhitter

That said not a bad oil, but if you are going to change it @ 2500-3000k why bother with synthetic?



Synthetic oils retain viscosity better and longer. Studies by Woolum show Mobil-1 retains over 80% at 1500mi and Spectro Synthetic retains about 64%. My ST shifts MUCH better with synthetic and for much longer with Mobil-1 than Rotella Synthetic which I have tried in the recent past. Agree with use of nonEC oils, in my ST1100 and DRZ400 anyway - never noted clutch slipping. If I was racing a high revving engine - I'd spend the bucks and use exactly what they recommend, but now I use the Mobil-1 15w-50, changing my oil and filter at end of season or if I notice any difficulty with shifting in the ST.

 

[merlin1650]

Here are some stats on Mobil 1 15w-50 "silvercap" and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50, plus Amsoil MC 20w-50. The 15w-50 Silvercap has 1200 ppm Phosphorus and 1300 ppm Zinc. It has about 100 ppm Moly, which should not be enough to affect any wet clutch. The V-Twin 20w-50 has 1600 ppm Phosphorus and 1700 ppm Zinc. I have heard it also contains about 100 ppm Moly, but am not absolutely sure this is true. Clearly, the V-twin has more Phosphorus and Zinc. But, the Silvercap has MORE Phosphorus and Zinc than Amsoil MC specific 20w-50 ( 1150 & 1270, 0 Moly ). So, how much Phosphorus and Zinc is enough. I bought a new V-Star 950 and changed the Yamalube 10w-40 out at 100 miles to 15w-50 Silvercap and then changed it again at 600 using 15w-50 Silvercap. I now have about 2500 miles on this OCI and have been completely satisfied. NO clutch issues at all. The 15w-50 Silvercap is $22.00 for a 5 quart jug at ChinaMart, while the V-Twin is about $9.00 per quart everywhere. I have no interest in even pricing the Amsoil. I know which one I will continue to use from now on.

 

[EagleFTE]

M1 15W50 has a reputation for shearing to a 40 pretty quickly in motorcycles. But so do a lot of other oils in a MC application. That is its biggest drawback. UOA show good wear numbers, it cleans engines very well, and it's about $4.50 / Qt if bought in the 5 Qt. jug. Good additive package but I'm guessing an inferior base compared to M1 Vtwin as the Vtwin does does not shear out of 50 grade like the 15W50. The M1 MC oils do not shear much at all in my experience. I suspect what ever they use as a base is better than "Super Syn". Probably very heavily PAO but the MC oils are twice the price.

All said I think M1 15W50 is a great buy at $4.50 / Qt for motorcycles. Question is do you want to pay more to get more.

 

[ELS]

Whoever is running the Valvoline motorcyle oil... don't.

I've seen where it failed rust protection tests.
Nothing going in a powersport engine should fail that.
They all end up just sitting a good bit.
Especially over the winter.



As for the Mobil 1 15w50, I have tried it in an application that is VERY HARD ON OIL and like it pretty good. However, I am not sure how far down in temperature it will be OK with winter coming on, which kind of sucks.

 

[fxrider]

Been using it since the red cap days, very good oil and the price cant be beat, $21.00 for a 5 quart jug.. i ride a harley so it does NOT shear down . if your changing oil at 2500 miles you can use a Good dino oil like Castrol 4 stroke 10W40 or 20W50. Valvoline 4 stroke 20W50 is great also. around $4.99 a quart.

 

[Redline955]

In the colder weather, just go with M1 10-40

 

[heavyhitter]

Originally Posted By: Swifter

Synthetic oils retain viscosity better and longer // but now I use the Mobil-1 15w-50,


There have been many UOA's on this forum proving that various 15w40 dino oil shears less than several synthetic oils.

Mobil 1 15w50 is known to shear very fast and after some time will be a mid grade 30wt.

So back to my original question "If you are going to change your oil at 2500-3000 miles why bother with synthetic?" More of a statement than a question really.

If someone was using a super synthetic that would go the long haul and stay in grade then, by all means use it. I can say with 100% certainty that the M1 15w50 will not stay in grade even after a short OCI.

 

[sunruh]

hmmmm a susvis of 71.9 in a mere 100 miles.

yeah that is the epitome of retaining viscosity by m1 15w50. barely 3 ticks above 30wt.

swifter, you need to do a little homework next time.

 

[fxrider]

Originally Posted By: heavyhitter
Originally Posted By: Swifter

Synthetic oils retain viscosity better and longer // but now I use the Mobil-1 15w-50,


There have been many UOA's on this forum proving that various 15w40 dino oil shears less than several synthetic oils.

Mobil 1 15w50 is known to shear very fast and after some time will be a mid grade 30wt.

So back to my original question "If you are going to change your oil at 2500-3000 miles why bother with synthetic?" More of a statement than a question really.

If someone was using a super synthetic that would go the long haul and stay in grade then, by all means use it. I can say with 100% certainty that the M1 15w50 will not stay in grade even after a short OCI.
so will Amsoil or any oil that shares the engine oil with the Clutch.

 

[merlin1650]

Just got back from China-Mart. I have used 15w-50 silvercap in my V*950 since new. It has gone up from $22 per 5 quart jug to $26. Am going back to Delvac1300 15w-40 at $10.50 per 4 quart jug.

 

[EagleFTE]

$26 for the jug?? Wow that is a tad expensive. $21 for the 5 Qt. jug of M1 automotive 15W50 here. Down from a high of $26 about 18 months ago. Too bad XOM does not take the base oil in this stuff more seriously. Don't know what Super Syn is but the M1 MC oils put it to shame. I have always thought Super Syn is neither all that super or all that syn but the 15W50 has good wear numbers in one year or 3000 mile runs which works for a lot of bikes. It does shear like a SOB though.

 

[kballowe]

Maybe I've been snoozing... but is there any difference in the performance (shearing, etc) between the 15W-50 Silver Cap and the Gold Cap?

Hey, the Gold Cap says that it has xx% more SuperSYN!!! Whatever that is. Must be BETTER, right?

 

[RWEST]

On a related note - I'm awaiting the Blackstone results on the last run of M1 15-50 in my V-Strom. It was a combination of left-over Red Cap and a fresh jug of Silver Cap. Should have results by end of the week and I'll post in the UOA section.

Snow's coming and it was time to get it out of there, so I was only able to put 3,200 miles on it.

 

[BeerLube]

Originally Posted By: RWEST
On a related note - I'm awaiting the Blackstone results on the last run of M1 15-50 in my V-Strom. It was a combination of left-over Red Cap and a fresh jug of Silver Cap. Should have results by end of the week and I'll post in the UOA section.

Snow's coming and it was time to get it out of there, so I was only able to put 3,200 miles on it.



Reviving an old one, but anyone with UOA's on this stuff to share? Search function hasn't been cooperating with me lately...

Going into this summer, I'm wanting try some in a water-cooled Ducati Multistrada that just got fresh Rotella T6 in the sump.

 

[MoreCowbellAz]

Originally Posted By: BeerLube


Reviving an old one, but anyone with UOA's on this stuff to share? Search function hasn't been cooperating with me lately...

Going into this summer, I'm wanting try some in a water-cooled Ducati Multistrada that just got fresh Rotella T6 in the sump.



I hesitate on old threads, but oddly enough just this weekend for the first time I installed M1 15w50 in my Road King. Bought it at $2/qt so giving it a try. Did 260 miles yesterday, kind of a warm day and the last 40 miles were at 90 mph. Got me to thinking this stuff better be stout cuz I'm guessing my oil temps were fairly high at that speed..............

 

[Bzab32]

Works great in my dry clutch, water cooled, Ducati 996

 

[loneryder]

Originally Posted By: RWEST
Quote:
Mobil 1 15W-50 has a heavy FM package that CAN cause troubles and even excess wear with your wet clutch.
First I ever heard that one.

I've been using it for years, as have many, many, other guys - never heard of a clutch issue.

+1