AC parts to replace

[SHOZ]

My clutch coil and bearing are bad on my 2008 Hyundai Accent with 148k miles. It looks near impossible to change out the clutch and coil with the compressor on the car.

So I can get a new compressor and clutch but what other parts should be replaced?

Expansion valve and orings I suppose.

 

[Chris142]

Dryer. Often its part of the condenser. I would not bother with the expansion valve if it was working.

 

[kschachn]

Sometimes at least on the Denso compressors, they state that both the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve have to be purchased to maintain the warranty on the compressor.

 

[Chris142]

Ya thats to cover their wazoo. He has not had a compressor failure. Just a coil and clutch bearing.

 

[kschachn]

Right, I understand. When the clutch died on my Sienna and I replaced the whole compressor, it said that somewhere in the ordering process.

 

[Donald]

Because your asking this question I assume your not trained on A/C repair nor have the tools? The system needs to be evacuated (save the R134a), parts replaced, evacuated and checked for leaks then filled by weight.

Whoever does the work for you can advise you what parts should be replaced.

 

[SHOZ]

I don't know if the compressor is bad or not. Last year the coil opened on the clutch but that may have been from a bad compressor. It did not blow the fuse.

I intend to have a shop suck it out, then I'll swap parts and let them recharge it.

Here is a kit on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Clutch-Complete-Repair-Hyundai/dp/B01MAWGV04/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1489964225&sr=1-2&keywords=New+AC+Compressor+%26+Clutch+With+Complete+A%2FC+Repair+Kit+For+Hyundai++accent

100% BRAND NEW, premium ISO/TS 16949 quality - tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications
Engineered for superior durability, backed by industry leading warranty
Included in this KIT: 100% BRAND NEW premium quality A/C compressor with clutch ; New accumulator / receiver drier / desiccant ; New expansion device ; Complete vehicle-specific o-ring seal kit ; correct viscosity PAG oil

 

[mk378]

A block-type TXV is usually easy to replace. They do typically last the life of the car with no problem, but they can also get sticky and fail. Replacing the desiccant bag requires unscrewing the plug from the receiver/ desiccant holder section of the condenser, which may be corroded.

 

[E150GT]

Originally Posted By: Donald

Whoever does the work for you can advise you what parts should be replaced.

You would think. I had my truck repaired at a local AC shop last year. there was a leak somewhere that I didnt have time to mess with. They called and said it would be x amount of dollars. I asked if that included a new accumulator and orifice tube. Nope. I then asked if I should replace those. The truck is 20 years old and they are original, and the system was empty for a while. They said yes, but didnt because nobody wants to do it. I had them replace it and they said it was the easiest upsell they'd ever had.

 

[SHOZ]

Got all the old parts out of the car today. It took a couple days as I'm old and it's hot. Radiator has to come out to get the condenser out to get to the plug to change the filter sock. The plug was plastic with a 10mm hex that is apparently only good for installing. I ordered a new cap for $14. That is the only thing the kit did not have and should have other than the R134a.

Once the hard lines were removed there was easy access to the valve on the firewall and compressor. I plan to flush the lines, condenser and evaporator with alcohol and blow them all out.

But it's time to change out all the heater and cooling hoses as it will never be as open as this. At 150k miles the interior of the hoses look good but I don't ever plan on being back in here again.

 

[nthach]

You can't really cleanly flush a new condenser - the automakers are using parallel-flow designs with very small passages between the main fluid paths, the risk of trapping your flush solvent and having that contaminate the lubricant is too great.

Is the compressor shot besides the clutch? If you pull the desiccant sock from the condenser or drain the residual oil from the compressor and there's no glitter/black death in it, you might be able to skip the flush but you'll need to calculate how much oil will need to be added. You can also get a new condenser but it's hit or miss.

 

[SHOZ]

No glitter and just some minor very small black on the screen at the bottom of the filter sock.

The clutch went out is the reason I'm changing it all out. planning on using denatured ethanol for the flush and then blowing compressed air through everything. Mainly to get all the oil out.

 

[nthach]

As long as you pull a good, long vacuum with a real vacuum pump(not a venturi pump) to "boil" off the remainder of the alcohol, I think you should be fine. I've flushed out an condenser with Dura II(it's a blend of high boiling point HFCs) and CRC Lectra-Motive(perc) and drew a vacuum for a half-day to boil off anything in the system. The system was working until the car was scrapped.

A lot of the flush solvents sold at the parts store are a mix of heptane and alcohol or d-limonene and stoddard solvent.

When you're ready to charge the system, I'd find how much oil Hyundai specifies and add that amount, turn the compressor a few times by hand, reinstall the compressor hoses and draw another vacuum. It's a PITA to have to vacuum twice, but better safe than sorry.

 

[Fitter30]

I just purchased the same kit from Amazon for a Chevy astro van. all the parts looked very good and fit well. the only thing added was a quart of flush and went to auto zone and loan a tool picked up their flush tool, worked well. cools great

 

[SHOZ]

I ordered a can of AC flush from AZ. I'll pick up the loaner pressure can if the can I got doesn't have some sort of attachment. It's an aerosol can though so may not be needed.

AC Pro CA-1

 

[nthach]

I'm familiar with that AZ stuff, it's citrus-based with a petroleum solvent and does need more care to get all out - you'll need to "pop" the condenser by blocking off one port and hitting it with compressed air in the other then letting the blocked end go. Do this until you can't smell too much of the citrus solvent and follow up with a long vacuum.

I've used this stuff, it's more expensive but it completely "flashes" out - work on a cool day with this - https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-69991-Flush-Solvent/dp/B000E0Z6NM

 

[SHOZ]

I just ran some ethanol through everything this morning and blew them hoses all out. I need to do the condenser again and try the blocking off with the thumb trick.

i see the kit I got on Amazon for $273 is now down to $200!!!

 

[SHOZ]

Put it all back together and pulled a vacuum on it for three hours then filled. Working good but it's not really hot at 80F and I didn't drive it.

Total cost was $330 for new compressor orngs, oil, R134a, desiccant and the expansion valve.