The radiator on my 2006 Explorer has had a slow leak for about 6 years. Has been leaking a bit more lately at times, but still not too bad. I put a quart of antifreeze in every 2 weeks or so. Sometimes I see the leak on the ground, but mostly it evaporates, and there is no sign of it, but a low overflow tank. Short of replacing the radiator, have been considering trying some stop leak. The truck is only worth a couple of grand as is, so figured there isn't much to lose. I could always put a radiator in, but if a cheap fix might get me down the road a year or so, that's all I want. Or I could just do nothing. Suggestions?? Thanks, Ed
What is best Stop Leak product?
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None of them work with a broken plastic tank.
How much does 0.95 litres of antifreeze every couple of weeks work out to over a year?
Is there a significant probability of losing enough coolant to screw up your engine?
How much is a scrap radiator?
Can you see a basis for a decision?
Is there a significant probability of losing enough coolant to screw up your engine?
How much is a scrap radiator?
Can you see a basis for a decision?
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Many stop leak products will clog the cooling system, especially the heater core. Then faced with a vehicle that does not get enough heat inside you will be forced to drain and flush the entire system and put in a new heater core. Also, some of the stop leak products will harden once they are wet and then exposed to air. This means that if you drain the system and expose it to air after you put it in, it can clog the radiator to the point that it has to be replaced because it can not cool enough to prevent the vehicle from over-heating.
It sounds like you are using enough coolant to make it worth your while to put in a new radiator.
PS: Antifreeze is a very toxic substance, and breathing in the fumes from it leaking can not be any good for you.
It sounds like you are using enough coolant to make it worth your while to put in a new radiator.
PS: Antifreeze is a very toxic substance, and breathing in the fumes from it leaking can not be any good for you.
GM tablets or Bar's Leaks radiator tablets work very good. Buy the Bar's because it's the same thing, and they are cheaper.
Subaru coolant conditioner works good too. I bought one container from my local Subaru dealer for less than $3. It's actually Holts Radweld made in England for Subaru.
https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/radweld/
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-...ant+conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-3634621-Cooling-System-Tablet/dp/B000QIH3C4
https://www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-HDC-Ra...rs+leak+tablets
Subaru coolant conditioner works good too. I bought one container from my local Subaru dealer for less than $3. It's actually Holts Radweld made in England for Subaru.
https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/radweld/
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-...ant+conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-3634621-Cooling-System-Tablet/dp/B000QIH3C4
https://www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-HDC-Ra...rs+leak+tablets
Just fix the truck!
Flex-seal tape? If you believe the infomercials, it's sent directly from the hands of Dog.
What is best Stop Leak product? A proper repair!
It cost me only $125 total to replace a new radiator. $65 in parts which I supplied and an hour labor by my mechanic.
Just be aware if you use too much of the stop leak it could eventually do some harm to the heater core which is a much more expensive repair.
Just be aware if you use too much of the stop leak it could eventually do some harm to the heater core which is a much more expensive repair.
It's been six years and only replace a quart every two weeks, on about a $2,000 vehicle - I'd be inclined to leave it alone, and just keep watch over it. IMHO, of course.
If I had some, I might try a glass tape patch stuck on with epoxy resin after prepping the crack area, IF its accessible, which it probably isn't.
I probably wouldn't buy the stuff specially, and I probably wouldn't expect it to work.
If spending money, I'd probably spend it on a scrapyard radiator, after comparing price with a new one.
I probably wouldn't buy the stuff specially, and I probably wouldn't expect it to work.
If spending money, I'd probably spend it on a scrapyard radiator, after comparing price with a new one.
Originally Posted By: BigD1
GM tablets or Bar's Leaks radiator tablets work very good. Buy the Bar's because it's the same thing, and they are cheaper.
I had good luck with the tablets over the years in a few beaters I didn't feel like fixing. I know a few people who have gone several years with stop leak added to radiators. We all know fixing it is best but sometimes you just don't want to for whatever the reason. The Bar's product is worth a try in those cases.
Just make sure to follow the directions and run the heater on high as directed.
GM tablets or Bar's Leaks radiator tablets work very good. Buy the Bar's because it's the same thing, and they are cheaper.
I had good luck with the tablets over the years in a few beaters I didn't feel like fixing. I know a few people who have gone several years with stop leak added to radiators. We all know fixing it is best but sometimes you just don't want to for whatever the reason. The Bar's product is worth a try in those cases.
Just make sure to follow the directions and run the heater on high as directed.
Thanks for the replies. Yea, I know a replacement radiator would be the best, and I could do it myself. There's is tons of info on replacing these Explorer radiators. At least I didn't get flamed too bad for even mentioning Stop Leak
If I would have mentioned it on my Explorer forum, they would have banned me
I think I used some of the Bars stuff on a car back in the 70s and it worked. Just thought it might be worth one shot before I research the new radiator. I haven't been on this site in a while, and remember it as being busy, and I was right, lots of responses. Thanks again, Ed
I used Bars in my Explorer while waiting on my new radiator to arrive.
A pin hole can sometimes be fixed by putting a self-tapping screw in it. I suppose you could do that each end of an accessible crack with an epoxied patch (maybe aluminium or plastic backed by glassfibre) between the screws, though I've never tried it.
I just checked Ebay, you can get a new radiator for that truck for $70 and free shipping.
I have seen Bars stop leak tablets work on certain conditions, but if its leaking from the plastic tank, stop leak will not likely help.
I have seen Bars stop leak tablets work on certain conditions, but if its leaking from the plastic tank, stop leak will not likely help.
I remember back when I lived in Chicago, I had an '84 Cutlass Supreme. The radiator in that car sprung a leak at some kind of plug/hole sort of thing. On one end of the radiator, there was what appeared to be a round punch-out sort of thing that I can only assume was due to machining. Anyways, that area started to fail and literally 'popped' out one day under pressure.
The hole was slightly smaller than a quarter, so my girlfriend's dad and I just welded a quarter over the hole. Held for over a year before we traded the car in. It was very ugly/messy, as we welded a LOT of extra material over the patch to be safe, but it worked.
The hole was slightly smaller than a quarter, so my girlfriend's dad and I just welded a quarter over the hole. Held for over a year before we traded the car in. It was very ugly/messy, as we welded a LOT of extra material over the patch to be safe, but it worked.
alumaseal, which is available as a bottle of liquid stuff, or as a powder
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