It's official- I'm now one of the AR collective

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The_Eric

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Sort of. I finally bit the bullet so to speak and bought a lower receiver. It's a Noreen from the local indoor range- it cost like $66.00 so I figured why not??? There was the Noreen, an Anderson and something else. The guy behind the counter opined that the Anderson and whatever the other one was were the same part with different etchings (I believe that) and that they were probably made in China and shipped here to be finished... Turn off! The Noreen was made and machined in Montana (looks physically different) so it seems like a win to me?

I think my first will just be a simple 5.56/.223 direct impingement gun with just the basic parts. However being a noob, is there anything I need to avoid?
 
Buy the right tools to assemble and you will never need a gunsmith. Some things will come with practice. I have never bought an assembled gun and have built and rebuilt several.

Brownells is a great resource for tools and parts and they have many tutorials.
 
Check out BCM for parts. I built my first one and used BCM parts for the upper and it's a pretty accurate gun. I can cover 5 shots with a half dollar at 100 yards with factory .223/5.56 which I think is pretty good out of a 16" barrel.

For ammo check out Lucky Gunner. Best prices on bulk .223/5.56 ammo. Test multiple brands of ammo and weight as well to find the most accurate rounds. My gun does not like 62 grain as much as it does 55 grn. It likes Federal and Winchester the best.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Sort of. I finally bit the bullet so to speak and bought a lower receiver. It's a Noreen from the local indoor range- it cost like $66.00 so I figured why not??? There was the Noreen, an Anderson and something else. The guy behind the counter opined that the Anderson and whatever the other one was were the same part with different etchings (I believe that) and that they were probably made in China and shipped here to be finished...


There are only a few forging houses in this country that forge AR-15 receivers. Most all of the manufacturers buy from them, and they supply the whole industry. So from a metallurgical standpoint, most are all the same. The exception would be billet machined lowers, which are cut from a block of solid Aluminum.
 
Read the information on the web site the BCM [Bravo Company] has about the metals they use , that is what makes a superior AR, Let's call it machine gun quality metal. Palmetto Armory has their Premium line of AR parts and uppers made with machine gun steel if you carefully shop they are nice. I
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Could you tell if I posted a picture of it? Forged vs. billet?


Nevermind- I just looked at the website and they say that it's billet.

NOREEN lower receiver
 
Generally speaking, if you are in possession of a forged AR-15 lower receiver, regardless of brand, there is a 95%+ chance it's T-7075 Aluminum. It is the most desirable for AR-15's. It is also one of the toughest to machine. So when you buy billet receivers, it's good to know what type of Aluminum they specify it's made from. Billet receivers require more machining, and T-7075 creates more tool wear, and requires slower speed and feed rates. That translates into longer production time. So not all billet receivers are made from it.
 
From the link, they're claiming 6061 T6, so just billet, not forged. Still just fine for my uses I'm quite sure.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Could you tell if I posted a picture of it? Forged vs. billet?


One way to tell is that on most, (not all), billet receivers, the trigger guard is integrally machined as part of the lower receiver itself. On forged lowers the trigger guard is absent. They machine 2 roll pin holes for it when it's finished. That allows most any type and shape of trigger guard to be installed by the manufacturer, or kitchen table builder.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
From the link, they're claiming 6061 T6, so just billet, not forged. Still just fine for my uses I'm quite sure.


You're good to go with 6061. It's good material.
 
I foresee a problem starting with this build. The problem is no one owns just 1 A R.
 
This is a shot of the receiver on my DPMS AP-4 .308 AR Carbine. You can tell the receiver is billet. The trigger guard is one piece, and was machined into the receiver, not pinned on.

 
Just because it has a one piece trigger guard does not mean it is billet.

Here is a PSA lower with an attached trigger guard. They are forged. They are identical to the Anderson lowers that are also forged.
 
To the OP, the Anderson lowers are made in USA. They are forged 7075 aluminum. Basically, they are not junk and are likely superior from a strength standpoint, than the 6061 billet lower you bought. Basically, the "salesman" flat out lied or didn't know what he was talking about.

That being said, billet lowers are just fine and it will serve you well.

Are you planning on buying a "kit" or buying each thing separately? My advice would be to ditch the A2 grip, and gritty stock trigger. Buy a lower kit without the trigger group.

http://www.primaryarms.com/spikes-tactical-lower-parts-kit-without-fire-control-group-slpk100

https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JBO_Lower_Receiver_Parts_Kit_WITHOUT_Trigger_Parts_p/jb-lpk-ltg.htm

The BCM PNT triggers are fantastic, for only $60.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?i...mp;groupid=2357

If you want the best trigger sold under $200, the Larue MBT is $125, and a steal as the nearest competitor that comes close is twice the price.
http://www.larue.com/larue-tactical-mbt-2s-trigger

The buffer tubes come in 6061 or 7075. Make sure to buy the 7075, as its twice as strong, and only a few bucks more expensive. If the material isn't listed, then you can almost guarantee that it is the cheaper 6061.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
I foresee a problem starting with this build. The problem is no one owns just 1 A R.


That's my biggest concern! I'm already considering buying another lower...
 
Really the only problem with the Anderson lowers is that the pistol grip screw depth is not mil spec, you need to trim about 1/4 inch off of them or buy one from Anderson that is the right length.

The billet one you bought is indeed a softer alloy, but if my memory serves me right, at one point early on in the development of the AR platform, a 6000 series alloy was the one the original Armalite used. It was found to be lacking a bit and eventually the current alloy came into use.

Buy the punch set from Brownells, it is worth it. Also the Magpul multi wrench and vice blocks are good quality tools.

Check out this "how to" on building the lower, he has other vids to show how to built the uppers as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1omm6jY7Gg
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Just because it has a one piece trigger guard does not mean it is billet.

Here is a PSA lower with an attached trigger guard. They are forged. They are identical to the Anderson lowers that are also forged.


Forgot to attach the link.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-ar-15...-516444988.html



Thanks for the input and links bubbatime! I honestly don't think that the guy was lying- probably just the typical misinformed "counter pro" type. While I understand the lower I bought will suffice, what is the advantage of having the forged lower? Does it come in handy for building a .308 or bigger, or if you need to use your AR for a pry bar/clubbing type tool???
 
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