Choosing between 2 chainsaws

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Wow those are some big and pricey saws. Cutting big trees?

We used to cut a lot of 2-3' diameter trees (already taken down), but with smaller saws. Im sure these are much more efficient though.

The one thing that caught my eye, is that while they are 6.5hp vs 6.97hp, its 4.7 vs 5.9N-m, which is 3.46 vs. 4.35 lb-ft. Dunno if chainsaws are torque or HP limited... Id think theyre more like hondas than big block chevys, but what do I know?
 
If you need the bigger bar get the slightly lower RPM bigger bore saw, it will pull that long chain. It will also cut a tiny bit slower on smaller logs.
Otherwise the smaller saw will be better.

Rod
 
I'm part of the Forest Practices Group (FPG) of volunteers at the local big park. We have about 1,800 acres of timber to manage for trails (keeping open) and hazard trees (sick, possible falling on camp sites). We have saws from limbers and climbing saws to 2-man units for felling.

Rule #1 - cubic inches (cc's) count. Torque always pays off.

Rule #2 - long bars do not hurt anything on small stuff, they can save your back from bending down. But, it's always better to run skip-chain on long bars. The extra distance between cutters allows for better/faster chip removal so the cutters are working more efficiently.

Rule #3 - never skimp on oil. Big motors under load generate a lot of heat. Good oil and plenty of it will keep that investment running a long time. No motor ever died from to much oil. But there plenty that died fro to little...

Rule #4 - NEVER lean out that motor. Always tune slightly on the rich side. It's OK if the motor is 4-stroking before it touches wood. As long as it cleans up and pulls hard 2-stroking under load, it's fine. It'll make more torque and be less sensitive to varying loads and hard spots, and keep cutting. It'll never fry a piston and you'll be happier as a owner
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Rule #5 - Have plenty of plastic wedges handy. Long bars pinch easily in fat threes. Once you get into the stem, start pounding wedges behind the bar. Keep that cut open and working. Wedges are cheap. Powerheads, not so much.

We have had trees "Barber Pole" on a cut and rip the power head right off the bar. Plan your cuts carefully. If a bar gets seriously pinched, stop and remove the powerhead. Finish with another saw from the other side. Worst will be a bent bar.

In the case of your two selections, they each have strengths and weaknesses.

The side chain adjuster is not as hardy as the screw adjuster. I will not own a side adjuster, but that's just me. Good chain, well oiled on a good bar will not stretch much in a hour of running. You need to tension when you fill the oil tank. No biggee. You need a break anyway.

But, the 390 has adjustable oiler for the chain. And that is a biggee. Weet wood with spring sap rising, not a lot of oil needed. Downed dead or snag wood that is dry, you can't oil enough. We run Stihl or Oregon chain with the oiling holes in the drive links. Long bars can starve for chain oil. Being able to add more chain oil is good thing
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So it comes down to what you cut mostly?

If semi-dry firewood and sick snag trees, I'd take the 390 and bite the bullet on the side adjuster. I'll take oil over nuts and bolts.

If bigger standing trees, I'd take the 395 with the long bar, skip chain, and I'd mix summer bar oil and ATF (75/25) and occasionally wet the bar with a brush of oil from my slop can if going into dry wood ...
 
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In the case of your two selections, they each have strengths and weaknesses.

The side chain adjuster is not as hardy as the screw adjuster. I will not own a side adjuster, but that's just me. Good chain, well oiled on a good bar will not stretch much in a hour of running. You need to tension when you fill the oil tank. No biggee. You need a break anyway.

But, the 390 has adjustable oiler for the chain. And that is a biggee. Wet wood with spring sap rising, not a lot of oil needed. Downed dead or snag wood that is dry, you can't oil enough. We run Stihl or Oregon chain with the oiling holes in the drive links. Long bars can starve for chain oil. Being able to add more chain oil is good thing
smile.gif


So it comes down to what you cut mostly?

If semi-dry firewood and sick snag trees, I'd take the 390 and bite the bullet on the side adjuster. I'll take oil over nuts and bolts.

If bigger live standing trees, I'd take the 395 with the long bar, skip chain, and I'd mix summer bar oil and ATF (75/25) and occasionally wet the bar with a brush of oil from my slop can if going into dry wood ...
 
BrocLuno,

I believe that the side access chain tensioner is similar to Stihl. It is still a metal screw, but is much more handy located on the side vs. near the base of the bar, on the front:



No one knows what your work conditions require. My experience is that the smallest saw that will get the job done reasonably well will tend to be more efficient regarding body fatigue. But, that is painting with a very broad brush. Its a balancing act for sure.

I would choose the 390 because it is lighter, has variable bar lube, better anti vibration, etc.. On saws with multiple bar length choices, the saw will power the smaller bars better.

Too many guys let their testosterone guide their saw selection.
 
I'm probably looking at a bit more saw than i need( i've been running chainsaws since i was about 13 years old). But i used to have a 65cc saw ( that i wore out) along with a smaller one for limbing. I found that the bigger saw was easier on my knees and back verses grinding away with a smaller saw. My current saw is a 45cc and is just not fast enough to cut bigger trees. This would probably be the last saw i ever need to buy.

I like to have enough power to be able to bore cut on a bigger tree if i needed to. I would plan on using a 24 inch bar for good chain speed. But will pull a 32-36 inch bar if i needed it.




 
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Originally Posted By: spasm3
I'm probably looking at a bit more saw than i need. I found that the bigger saw was easier on my knees and back verses grinding away with a smaller saw.
I like to have enough power to be able to bore cut on a bigger tree if i needed to.


Have to agree. I still have the 24 inch bar on my Craftsman 5020AV used to cut up a massive fallen Willow tree last year.

Sure its nose heavy but limbing is far easier with the extra reach and I can also rip through bigger stuff without switching saws or bars.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

The one thing that caught my eye, is that while they are 6.5hp vs 6.97hp, its 4.7 vs 5.9N-m, which is 3.46 vs. 4.35 lb-ft. Dunno if chainsaws are torque or HP limited... Id think theyre more like hondas than big block chevys, but what do I know?


I saw that as well, 6.5 hp vs almost 7 hp. but the torque is much more. Have not decided if its worth 2lbs of weight to get it ( for my needs anyway).

Vibration rating is significantly less on the 390.
 
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Thanks BrocLuno, i really did not think about the oiler, but i do like that its ajustable. Probably going wed to look, might come home with one.
 
One more question. Is there any real advantage/disadvantage to a wrap handle verses the standard handle?
I've never used a saw with a wrap handle.
 
of the two i'd choose the 395, it's a pro model saw, the other is not,
All my saws are "pro models, i'm s stihl fan though, ms066, ms360, ms026. i can run the 660 all day long as it cuts fast, and with a 25-32" bar, you can always put a short bar on, but nice to have the bigger engine then wish you had...
mt 660 has a wrap around handle. it's nice at times. wish my 360 had it.
i run amsoil, dominator at 50-1 same as my dirtbikes. and after 10 years i've never had to rebuild them. just keep the air filter and heat fins clean,

let us know what you end up with.
 
I would look at the full wrap. I am eyeballing a 562xp full wrap. The trees I have knocked down and some of the angles I have cut at, the full wrap would have made it safer and easier on my arms/body.
 
Originally Posted By: Killer223
of the two i'd choose the 395, it's a pro model saw, the other is not,
All my saws are "pro models, i'm s stihl fan though, ms066, ms360, ms026. i can run the 660 all day long as it cuts fast, and with a 25-32" bar, you can always put a short bar on, but nice to have the bigger engine then wish you had...
mt 660 has a wrap around handle. it's nice at times. wish my 360 had it.
i run amsoil, dominator at 50-1 same as my dirtbikes. and after 10 years i've never had to rebuild them. just keep the air filter and heat fins clean,

let us know what you end up with.



Husqvarna lists the 390 in their professional line. I looked at the ms-660 great saw, more than i need, it is pretty hot though 7.2 hp if i remember. They are just both heavier than the 390. If i was in my 30's i'd get the stihl or 395.

Really leaning toward the 390

390 88cc 6.5 hp 15.7 lbs
395 93.6cc 6.97 hp 17.4 lbs
stihl ms660 91.1cc 7.2hp 16.3 lbs

I plan to order it with a 20 or 24 inch bar and a 32. Just like to have a 32 around if i ever needed it.
 
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yeah i hate being dyslexic. sorry about that. you might look into the stihl 360, mine's awesome!!! as is my dad 460. pound per though i'd choose the 360 for light loads, and only use the 660 for oak and large junipers. i use my 360 the most even with a 25" bar it still rips awesome. heavy wet oak will slow it down but most pine and aspen it's the tool of choice.

i'm sure any modern saw you choose will be a great addition.
 
The weight difference makes me think the 390 has a plastic crankcase and xp has a metal crankcase. If so, I know what I'd choose. They look very much the same, so why the weight savings?

I have 2 husky saws, one with a plastic and one with a metal crankcase. That's why I suggested you look into it.
 
Originally Posted By: Killer223
of the two i'd choose the 395, it's a pro model saw, the other is not,
All my saws are "pro models, i'm s stihl fan though, ms066, ms360, ms026. i can run the 660 all day long as it cuts fast, and with a 25-32" bar, you can always put a short bar on, but nice to have the bigger engine then wish you had...
mt 660 has a wrap around handle. it's nice at times. wish my 360 had it.
i run amsoil, dominator at 50-1 same as my dirtbikes. and after 10 years i've never had to rebuild them. just keep the air filter and heat fins clean,

let us know what you end up with.


Not true, they are both pro model saws. Both are standard split case engines with metal cases. The difference in weight and construction is due to the parent chassis that each saw is built off of. The 395 is based on the 3120 with an outboard clutch, bigger saw and heavier but the external clutch has its advantages when pulling a long chain, it runs cooler. The 390 is based on the 385 with an inboard clutch, slimmer and lighter package similar to how most modern saws are built but the inboard clutch can run hotter than an outboard when using long bars. If the saw is going to live with a big bar and .404 chain than I would go with the 395, if it's going to live with a 32" or shorter bar I'd go with the 390.
 
Edit my last post. The inboard clutch will make the rim sprocket a quick change, which will allow quick change for different bar/chain types.
 
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