So maybe 0w20 isn't as great as it's made to be

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Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
5W30 is no good above 50F, but 10W30 is OK?
That's just weird...


5W-30 is more likely than 10W-30 to:
- be a low HTHS oil to start with
- have more VII that will shear during use.

That's why most of these sharts that got drawn up in the 1980's will disallow the use of 5w-30 or 0w-30 for high temps.

What I get from that shart is that they want a high HTHS oil in there if you're intending to use what the engine's got, rather than go grocery shopping on saturday and drive to church on sunday. the recommendation in the US manuals seems to be geared towards the latter, and there's nothing wrong with that if the owner acknowledges that it's not for severe service.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...


Even when spinning (2k rpm and above, I believe theres regular boudary lubrication conditions occuring with this truck. That'll heat up the oil (in the bearings, might not translate to much bulk oil tempetratutre rise) and wear the down the moly and ZDDP in the oil until bearing protection fails. Extremely short OCI could have extended the life maybe a few K, but the sensible answer is going up a grade or 2. I'd go for a +3.5 HTHS oil myself.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...


Even when spinning (2k rpm and above, I believe theres regular boudary lubrication conditions occuring with this truck. That'll heat up the oil (in the bearings, might not translate to much bulk oil tempetratutre rise) and wear the down the moly and ZDDP in the oil until bearing protection fails. Extremely short OCI could have extended the life maybe a few K, but the sensible answer is going up a grade or 2. I'd go for a +3.5 HTHS oil myself.

So ideally 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer? Our summers tend to be mid to high 90s and winters 20-40F. Also i tend to do most of my offroading in the summer. For that reason should i possibly bump it to 40wt? I know most manuals say off-road useage is severe duty, but realistically with all the gear reduction happening is it actually taxing on the oil? Just because the motor doesn't have to work that hard.
 
Also i was looking at pennzoil ultra plat and it seems to be a very good oil comparable to amsoil and probably over kill for the oci that i will be using:5-6k.

I noticed pennzoil makes all these claims about cleaner pistons and whatnot but in the fine print it says this is for the 5w30 weight. Are the other weights then not as good or what? I thought that was weird. They wouldn't advertise their least performing weight/package, so why do the other weights not perform as well?
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes, the 2016s have had a ton of issues compared to previous years. This may have been the first year of the new generation. But they will make it right and stand behind the product. As long as it looks decent on those big mudder tires then you're fine.
most of the issues are in regards to the new 3.5L v6 motors and the new 6 spd transmissions. As far as i know the crank sensors have been know to go out and everyone [censored] about the way the transmission shifts and hunts for gear. There is also the rear end issue where the differential starts humming after a few thousand miles. I havnt had the rear end issue, albeit having the new rear end but then i was aware of something called differential break in and i replaced the oil after a few thousand miles. They are now using 75w85 oil in the drive train where gear oil is normally speced. I wonder if that just not holding up to the heat generated during break in.

But i got the 4 cylinder because this engine was supposed to be the tried and true motor based off the old 3rz. If it wasn't for the engine issue and several dealer [censored] ups this would have been the perfect truck in my opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...


Even when spinning (2k rpm and above, I believe theres regular boudary lubrication conditions occuring with this truck. That'll heat up the oil (in the bearings, might not translate to much bulk oil tempetratutre rise) and wear the down the moly and ZDDP in the oil until bearing protection fails. Extremely short OCI could have extended the life maybe a few K, but the sensible answer is going up a grade or 2. I'd go for a +3.5 HTHS oil myself.

So ideally 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer? Our summers tend to be mid to high 90s and winters 20-40F. Also i tend to do most of my offroading in the summer. For that reason should i possibly bump it to 40wt? I know most manuals say off-road useage is severe duty, but realistically with all the gear reduction happening is it actually taxing on the oil? Just because the motor doesn't have to work that hard.


That would probably be taking things to an extreme. There are engines that are doing far more work and under more stress in heat more than you will deal with in Maryland that are using 10w30 effectively. Unless you consider a 15L turbocharged diesel moving 80,000 lb of vehicle and cargo thru the mountains out west in over 100F as still not quite severe service.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
5W30, even an ILSAC is around 15% higher HTHS, which is the effective viscosity in the bearings...do that now IMO.

As an aside, the E6 type 5w-30 lubricants are looking more and more attractive all the time.
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...


Even when spinning (2k rpm and above, I believe theres regular boudary lubrication conditions occuring with this truck. That'll heat up the oil (in the bearings, might not translate to much bulk oil tempetratutre rise) and wear the down the moly and ZDDP in the oil until bearing protection fails. Extremely short OCI could have extended the life maybe a few K, but the sensible answer is going up a grade or 2. I'd go for a +3.5 HTHS oil myself.

So ideally 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer? Our summers tend to be mid to high 90s and winters 20-40F. Also i tend to do most of my offroading in the summer. For that reason should i possibly bump it to 40wt? I know most manuals say off-road useage is severe duty, but realistically with all the gear reduction happening is it actually taxing on the oil? Just because the motor doesn't have to work that hard.


That would probably be taking things to an extreme. There are engines that are doing far more work and under more stress in heat more than you will deal with in Maryland that are using 10w30 effectively. Unless you consider a 15L turbocharged diesel moving 80,000 lb of vehicle and cargo thru the mountains out west in over 100F as still not quite severe service.


No those 10w30 are NOT ILSAC grade oils. They're the 10w-30 like is found in the owners manual graph from Australia. Why don't you try the same on 15 liters of gf-5 and tell us how that worked out?
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


+1

If that motor is not spinning, it's pounding the bearings out. And 0W-20 leaves no "excess" cushion. HTHS is the desired attribute if you are not going to spin the motor ...


So ideally 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer? Our summers tend to be mid to high 90s and winters 20-40F. Also i tend to do most of my offroading in the summer. For that reason should i possibly bump it to 40wt? I know most manuals say off-road useage is severe duty, but realistically with all the gear reduction happening is it actually taxing on the oil? Just because the motor doesn't have to work that hard.


Why not just use an Euro oil (ACEA A3/B4, C3, or C4)? HTHS >3.5, problem solved... with any of these.

If you're worried about fuel economy... Shell 0w-30 Av-L oder ECT C2/C3. Pour point of -51°, VI of 204 and kV40 of only 58.7 should mean a very thin oil at low temperatures and should save some gas during warm-up, but you still get HTHS >3.5 and a very stout anti-wear addtive package. (VW 504/507 is tough in this regard, as are MB 229.51, 229.52...).
With american fuels, I'd rather not run full european intervals, though.
 
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