Nowadays what coolant should I use in my Ford 351W

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Nicasio

Nicasio

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Nov 24, 2013
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Location
Rocklin, CA USA
Pretty much a standard Ford 351W in my Mustang with alota bolt-ons (HCI & 11psi Vortech). I have the old school Prestone Green in it right now, but it's been a while & needs to be changed out. Just wondering if there's any newer/better recommendations that I could use. Car sits in the garage quite a bit. Probly only drive it once or twice a month.
 
Prestone doesn't make green anymore and hasn't for many years if you're using Prestone green you've been using Dexcool basically.

I would recommend a full flush and a switch to Zerex G05 or also available as Motorcraft gold
 
I would use G-05. Avoid DexCool. While DexCool is an excellent coolant I would only use it in cars where it came from the factory with DexCool.

I had a 351W in my 1969 Mach1 Mustang. Great car and fun to drive. Then I got married and had kids.
 
If the OPs car is still built for silicated coolants, is there any reason to upgrade to an OAT coolant? Green traditional can still be bought at places like pep boys and farm stores.

As long as the green stuff is changed out on time, it's just as effective right?
 
I don't think coolant is the rocket science that some make it out to be. It's simply an additive to help the water transfer heat energy. I've never witnessed a problem who's cause could be linked to the type of coolant. All cooling system problems are either a function of mechanical limitations (worn bearings, seals, aged plastic cracking, external corrosion, design flaw) or mal-maintenance (internal corrision due to overextended coolant service, stop leak clogs, low/overfilled coolant, etc).


As mentioned, pick your favorite and run the corresponding specified interval.


FWIW, I've been running Dexcool in all of my vehicles (all different makes/models, including my current Crown Vic) for 15 years. No problems to report. No problems to report when using other coolant types either.

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Originally Posted By: emmett442
I don't think coolant is the rocket science that some make it out to be. It's simply an additive to help the water transfer heat energy. I've never witnessed a problem who's cause could be linked to the type of coolant. All cooling system problems are either a function of mechanical limitations (worn bearings, seals, aged plastic cracking, external corrosion, design flaw) or mal-maintenance (internal corrision due to overextended coolant service, stop leak clogs, low/overfilled coolant, etc).


As mentioned, pick your favorite and run the corresponding specified interval.


FWIW, I've been running Dexcool in all of my vehicles (all different makes/models, including my current Crown Vic) for 15 years. No problems to report. No problems to report when using other coolant types either.

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+1

Use whatever... personally I like G-05, 5 yrs or 150k miles (something like that). Nothing wrong with regular-ole green IAT other than short maintenance interval.
 
For mixed metals, I personally prefer a heavy duty ELC. Most of the ELCs have a full package to protect all metals. Most modern coolant are entirely aluminum-centric.

I prefer Rotella ELC NF because I can find it at any Advance or WM in a pinch.
 
The concern for older cars is protection of the soldered components. I don't think modern vehicles have soldered radiators or heater cores. The soldered surfaces require a silicated component to the coolant chemistry for protection.

There are older style silicated antifreezes available on the market.

Valvoline has one that's suited for older cars, though the silicate content is reduced.
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/zerex-original-green-antifreeze
 
Zerex original green (now low silicate formula) would be a good choice, it's actually rated 5 yrs./100K miles now. You could drain & refill the radiator every couple/3 years and never have to flush it. I'm suspicious of OATs in older Fords, I've read that the seals & o-rings weren't compatible with newer coolant formulations.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
What are the radiator and heater made of?


Copper


Originally Posted By: Olas
After a drain and 2 or 3 flushes with distilled water,myou can use whatever you wish.
Do you prioritise price or performance?


Performance, protection from corrosion 1st.


Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: Nicasio
I know the radiator is copper. I'm pretty sure the heater core is as well.
dont put dexcool or a dexclone in it.


So Dex is a no no for anything Copper?
 
Rotella ELC is good stuff, and should work pretty well in that car. If you can get it in full concentrate, rather than 50/50 prediluted, then you should do that. Better deal.

Otherwise, G-05 can be had in concentrate form for a good price as well, and you can also check at your local Ford dealership for their Motorcraft Premium Gold coolant. My local dealer has it for less than $16 a gallon for the concentrate. Works out to $8.50 per gallon in 50/50 diluted form.
 
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