Weld older exhaust pipe?

[ford46guy]

I replaced my entire exhaust down from the Y-pipe including the cat converter in the Explorer last summer. Now I have a small hole in the y-pipe(a shield came off and it is where the weld was). The salt probably had something to do with it too.

The rest of the pipe seems solid, but has a rust layer. One reputable shop looked at it and said get a new pipe, they hinted at about 4-5 hours of labor. Another gave me an appointment without seeing it and said they can do it. He said if you can strike it with a hammer and its solid they can weld. They claim to do custom exhausts and such.

I would replace the pipe myself but the studs are a nightmare and there are only one or two stainless OEM pipes around online. The 02 sensors may need replacement too, they are likely welded in and will need the wire cut for a full socket. The aftermarket ones are the aluminized [censored]. I think a 40$ weld job will outlast the aluminized pipe. They don't even have a warranty.

 

[exranger06]

I would try to weld the pipe. You don't really have anything to lose by giving it a try. You're right that the bolts are a nightmare. I fixed an exhaust leak on my 99 Explorer (same engine as yours), which involved those bolts, and it was the biggest pain in the butt vehicle repair I think I've ever done. I broke 3 of the 4 bolts and I ended up having to remove both manifolds and brought them to a machine shop to get the remnants of the bolts out. I had them drill out the threads, so instead of the bolt threading into the manifold, it goes right through the manifold and is held in with a nut. Now if I ever have to remove them again (I hope not) it'll be way easier.

 

[eljefino]

The front exhaust is usually stainless (to meet an EPA requirement) and can surface rust but be solid.

But once you weld it, the weld turns the area immediately around it into regular ol' carbon steel that rusts pretty quick.

I'd go for the new stainless pipe only because the labor sounds like a nightmare anyway, so why not pay a bit extra for good parts?

I'd talk it over with the guy who's willing to try. Gonna hurt moneywise, trust the craftsman.

 

[CT8]

Would a hose clamp cover the hole? If so a hose v=clamp and muffler glue would be worth a try.

 

[ford46guy]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
I would try to weld the pipe. You don't really have anything to lose by giving it a try. You're right that the bolts are a nightmare. I fixed an exhaust leak on my 99 Explorer (same engine as yours), which involved those bolts, and it was the biggest pain in the butt vehicle repair I think I've ever done. I broke 3 of the 4 bolts and I ended up having to remove both manifolds and brought them to a machine shop to get the remnants of the bolts out. I had them drill out the threads, so instead of the bolt threading into the manifold, it goes right through the manifold and is held in with a nut. Now if I ever have to remove them again (I hope not) it'll be way easier.


Yes, if you search for exhaust manifold bolts the Ranger/Explorer OHV seems to come up, I read they were self tapping bolts (not studs) and probably the hardest metal known to man after 20 years of heat. The shop actually said we would rather you do the repair, the last one they did used tons of drill bits. Another shop suggested Nickson clamps https://www.amazon.com/Nickson-17350-Clamp-Stud-1-3/dp/B000COX90M, just cut and install. They said they give customers an option and the cost difference is 4-500 bucks, guess what they pick. I have the welding appointment in a few days, they are booked solid, guess it is a very needed service.

 

[ford46guy]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Would a hose clamp cover the hole? If so a hose v=clamp and muffler glue would be worth a try.

I tried the permatex cement packet with the fiberglass bandage, cleaned it well and it lasted about 2000 miles. Blew a nice hole thru it. A small hole creates enormous pressure.

There is a boss right above it to hold the former shield, so a clamp is tricky. If the weld don't work out I may try the cement with a soup can with ridges and clamps. The hole is maybe 1/4 long by 1/8 wide, close to the 02 bung The welding place said they may cut out that section of pipe and reweld. They said it will be as good as factory if they can do it, they use SS tubes.

 

[Trav]

I have welded pipes that have damage from mounting tabs tearing the pipe many times, you could probably do it the same way.
Take a piece of pipe a good bit longer than the hole and cut it down the middle so you have 2 half shells, clean the old pipe well and weld a shell half over the hole, if its going to hold a bracket or mount cut the other half shell a bit shorter and weld it on to the other then crank the amps on the welder to weld the bracket to the pipe with good penetration.
I repaired on like like this on a Nissan years ago and its lasted longer than the original and still okay.