Fluid Film 1 year in pics

[LeakySeals]

I took pictures of Fluid Film over a year's time. I chose an area that was bare metal and some of the GM wax. Sorry I don't know why some pics loaded sideways or upside down on this site.

Feb 2016 pre


Mar 2016 Just after first coat


April 2016 after a touch up


Aug 2016. Everything sooty and covered looking good.


Mar 2017 Chunks falling off exposing rust


Garage floor littered with debris..

 

[KrisZ]

Looks pretty good. Keep re-spraying and the rust will slow down substantially.

 

[SatinSilver]

This is on the Escalade? I'd keep reapplying as mentioned since it's doing some good I think. Trav on here has recommended some top notch rust preventative product although it's pricy. I forget the name of it at the moment but you can PM or he may reply on here. So maybe use that when the FF is gone.

 

[SZR48207]

Why not hit the rusted areas with some rust stopper paint? I forgot the name of it but it has phosphoric acid in it as well as a black paint so it converts rust to something else and then leaves behind a nice finish. Then you can put FF on top of that.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
This is on the Escalade? I'd keep reapplying as mentioned since it's doing some good I think. Trav on here has recommended some top notch rust preventative product although it's pricy. I forget the name of it at the moment but you can PM or he may reply on here. So maybe use that when the FF is gone.

Yes its the drivers side rear of the Escalade. I was excited in august but now disappointed. I expected a slow erosion to bare metal, then reapply. Instead I got bare metal open sores with active rusting underneath. I thought the oil would penetrate and hold. Combine that with the slippery mess doing anything underneath and I'm wanting to move on to a rust converter or reformer (once I get this oil off)

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Why not hit the rusted areas with some rust stopper paint? I forgot the name of it but it has phosphoric acid in it as well as a black paint so it converts rust to something else and then leaves behind a nice finish. Then you can put FF on top of that.


The problem is that the rust is working its way underneath the OEM wax-like coating and pushing it off to expose new rust. Paint would cover the exposed rust, but as soon as the waxy coating flakes off more, there will be new exposed rust.

It seems like he needs a way to blast the underside and remove all the old, loosening coating. Then he can figure out what to do next. Oil coating, Waxoyl, rust converter, paint, etc..

 

[Nick1994]

Sounds like you put Fluid Film on flaky rust and it fell off, and you're upset? Should have started putting that Fluid Film on 10+ years ago

 

[69GTX]

Wire brush off loose rust. Apply a rust binder like Extend and/or one of the Eastwood anti-rust paints like Chassis Black or Corroless. The one time I coated a K-frame with the Chassis Black it went on like concrete. That was likely never to come off again. Touched up some of the weak areas under the car this summer with Corroless. If that's still solidly in place I'll do some more.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like you put Fluid Film on flaky rust and it fell off, and you're upset? Should have started putting that Fluid Film on 10+ years ago


Spoken like a man who doesnt live in the rust belt

I saw a 2013 equinox after 3 months that had rust all over

.. should he have had the factory apply it?

 

[larryinnewyork]

Looks good to me, and normal / I also use Fluid Film.
The Fluid Film is doing its job and just needs a touch-up.

Easiest fix is to spray more Fluid Film on any exposed rust.
Buy yourself an Aerosol Can of F.F. and redo rusty areas.
The F.F. will then have an easier time getting to the base-metal.
Eventually the heavy rust should stop falling off.

I've been using Fluid Film for years on my Truck (2002 Ford Ranger) and I don't have a rust problem.

 

[VNTS]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Wire brush off loose rust. Apply a rust binder like Extend and/or one of the Eastwood anti-rust paints like Chassis Black or Corroless. The one time I coated a K-frame with the Chassis Black it went on like concrete. That was likely never to come off again. Touched up some of the weak areas under the car this summer with Corroless. If that's still solidly in place I'll do some more.


He should hit the rust area with wire brush, wash and degrease. Then use some of Eastwoods Rust converter, top coat with chasis black epoxy and finally their hevy duti anti rust wax coasting.

Fluid film is a waste of time on exterior except for inner panels where it wont wash off.

The Eastwoods inner frame coating is another excellent product to spray inside frames, rocker boxes etc

 

[supton]

Yeah, it seems anything painted with black chassis paint is bound to rust. I don't what it is, but that black paint just lifts off--must be lack of some sort of underlayer, like zinc or something. Any paint defect and the paint comes off in short order, because it just rusts.

I'm starting to lose faith in FF, seems to wash off too fast to really slow down rust. Then again, for the miles I drive, it doesn't matter.

Seems like the FF should have worked its way under the loose rust and paint. I wonder if it is doing just that, and while the rust may be stopped, what you are seeing is the stuff that was loose before--just hadn't had a chance to fall off yet. Perhaps the FF is working into those areas, but due to heat expansion, it is causing that flakey stuff to come off in your garage.

 

[JHZR2]

So a 10 year old truck with plenty of exposed rust was sprayed in high-wash areas, and its curious why there is still rust?

Rust is like cancer, so Im told. You can cut it out, chemically kill it, but once it starts you must be vigilant and it may always come back.

Id have at least lightly brushed it and then converted with ospho or a similar product. You want to at least passivate the surface. A product like FF can prevent mousture exposure, which stops/slows rust, but on a failed surface, its not definite.

If the surface was solid without rust, a replaceable fluid product, and/or a solid product (waxy) may be used. Solid (undercoating or paints like POR-15) can let water migrate under if damaged. A liquid (FF or oil) overspray can help with this, though and is smart to oromote waxes to sslf-heal, and to impregnate paints.

Any fluid product will creep, and will also wash away if the conditions are right. There are places and uses for each product. For this one, ff on rust doesnt look like the right move...

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So a 10 year old truck with plenty of exposed rust was sprayed in high-wash areas, and its curious why there is still rust?

Rust is like cancer, so Im told. You can cut it out, chemically kill it, but once it starts you must be vigilant and it may always come back.

Id have at least lightly brushed it and then converted with ospho or a similar product. You want to at least passivate the surface. A product like FF can prevent mousture exposure, which stops/slows rust, but on a failed surface, its not definite.

If the surface was solid without rust, a replaceable fluid product, and/or a solid product (waxy) may be used. Solid (undercoating or paints like POR-15) can let water migrate under if damaged. A liquid (FF or oil) overspray can help with this, though and is smart to oromote waxes to sslf-heal, and to impregnate paints.

Any fluid product will creep, and will also wash away if the conditions are right. There are places and uses for each product. For this one, ff on rust doesnt look like the right move...


I'm curious why Fluid Film Flaked off and appeared to trap moisture underneath, making rust worse. Its contrary to what I was expecting. I was expecting the oil/parrafin wax to penetrate and slowly wash off. But I don't expect anything to really stop rust. I'm moving on to Rustoleum Stops Rust Rust Reformer after reading THIS . Which also states Ospho doesn't work well at all.

Agree for the body I will just cut it out and replace the steel. But if the Frame is bad I'll get rid of it. I just don't think welding Frames is safe.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
Looks good to me, and normal / I also use Fluid Film.
The Fluid Film is doing its job and just needs a touch-up.

Easiest fix is to spray more Fluid Film on any exposed rust.
Buy yourself an Aerosol Can of F.F. and redo rusty areas.
The F.F. will then have an easier time getting to the base-metal.
Eventually the heavy rust should stop falling off.

I've been using Fluid Film for years on my Truck (2002 Ford Ranger) and I don't have a rust problem.

That was Fluid Film only coming off. Stained with Rust. So you're saying this is normal and don't give up? I had the chance to get it the other day but its too cold again now I assume. (10F). How much prep do you do? I'm lightly wire brushing and spraying with hose.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
This is on the Escalade? I'd keep reapplying as mentioned since it's doing some good I think. Trav on here has recommended some top notch rust preventative product although it's pricy. I forget the name of it at the moment but you can PM or he may reply on here. So maybe use that when the FF is gone.


This is what he suggested https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368-P82C28.aspx and one of the products he had good luck with over the years. I shot two vehicles with it. The product works very will and requires very little touching up. I wouldn't spray it over FF though.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
This is on the Escalade? I'd keep reapplying as mentioned since it's doing some good I think. Trav on here has recommended some top notch rust preventative product although it's pricy. I forget the name of it at the moment but you can PM or he may reply on here. So maybe use that when the FF is gone.


This is what he suggested https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368-P82C28.aspx and one of the products he had good luck with over the years. I shot two vehicles with it. The product works very will and requires very little touching up. I wouldn't spray it over FF though.

How would I get the FF off? Not worried about the existing GM wax, would rather that came off too.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
This is on the Escalade? I'd keep reapplying as mentioned since it's doing some good I think. Trav on here has recommended some top notch rust preventative product although it's pricy. I forget the name of it at the moment but you can PM or he may reply on here. So maybe use that when the FF is gone.


This is what he suggested https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368-P82C28.aspx and one of the products he had good luck with over the years. I shot two vehicles with it. The product works very will and requires very little touching up. I wouldn't spray it over FF though.

How would I get the FF off? Not worried about the existing GM wax, would rather that came off too.


That would be tough. Power washing would be the only way practical way I can think of. At this point I'd stick with the FF, it does work and has a good following. Going forward with another vehicle that hasn't been treated with FF I'd use the better product.

 

[4WD]

Even in the south "rust never sleeps" ... I park my truck over a hose/sprinkler every time I am back from the drive on beach ... I move it three times 5 minutes each step ... that is the only way I know the salt is gone. Twice a year I use Rustoleum Rust Reformer ...

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Even in the south "rust never sleeps" ... I park my truck over a hose/sprinkler every time I am back from the drive on beach ... I move it three times 5 minutes each step ... that is the only way I know the salt is gone. Twice a year I use Rustoleum Rust Reformer ...

Which reformer? According to that test above the Reformer with tannic acid works the best, which is Stops Rust Rust Reformer not Automotive Rust Reformer Spray. According to the MSDS of both, the Automotive version does not have tannic acid, the one with the pic of a rusty chair does