'97 Volvo 850 - 50k on oil

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You are creating a mix and concentrating the contaminants and making sure that none of these contaminants escape. When you add a quart without knowing what is causing oil consumption you are at least keeping all the bad stuff in the mix. No matter how good the new quart of oil might be including any 3rd party additives, you can assume that the bad stuff is getting worse and that there is now more of it now. When you continue long enough you will one day be able to decide if your method was cost effective or not.

A UOA might help you make the decision for how to proceed now instead of guessing. The solution might be something simple or you might be encouraged to sell it right away. Advice from across the Internet is probably less effective that the UOA.

For me, I owned a 96 850 Turbo Wagon which was bullet proof. Nothing ever went wrong until a pickup ran my wife thru a guardrail at 70 on the freeway. Airbags went off as the car sailed over a bank sheering off posts and sailing thru the air from the ramp to a crossing freeway and destroyed the car. My wife climbed out without so much as a scratch confirming that new cars are much safer. That ended a car that we were going to keep forever. Nothing ever went wrong and a UOA showed the oil was in great shape. This car was a Volvo Volvo and not a Ford Volvo or a Chinese Volvo. It was an excellent car but we did not like the newer ones and purchased something else, instead. We could not find a used one. We were told that they disappeared quickly when offered for sail.
 
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
There's some fine grit and dilute resins that oil filters don't catch, so you should do more regular full oil changes, imo. Acidity build up quicker also.


I would be interested in seeing what's in the bottom of your oil pan. Do a full OC.
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
There could be heavy sludge accumulating at the bottom of the oil pan that doesn't get picked up by the oil pump and doesn't get burned.
So it's a good idea to bottom-drain once in a while.


This.



Tell that to people who successfully use the dipstick siphoning method for oil and ATF fluid and the'll tell you this is hogwash!
(Myself included).



I used a Mityvac to do all the oil changes on my V70 T5 since new and when I drained that pan after Using the Mityvac there was a considerable amount oil left in there.

ALSO, that's not what we are talking about AT ALL. You are talking about extracting ATF through a a siphon and the OP is talking about just adding top off oil and changing filters. He's not extracting ANYTHING other than the miniscule amount caught in his filter media. His pan could be full of sludge for all he knows.

Two totally different things.
 
I'd change the motor and save the oil
smile.gif

But since its still running, looks like your plan is fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
There could be heavy sludge accumulating at the bottom of the oil pan that doesn't get picked up by the oil pump and doesn't get burned.
So it's a good idea to bottom-drain once in a while.


This.



Tell that to people who successfully use the dipstick siphoning method for oil and ATF fluid and the'll tell you this is hogwash!
(Myself included).


Your assumption that an engine is sludge free simply because one is able to siphon through the dipstick tube is hogwash.

Also, do you deal with sludged transmissions much? I've not read about this once since being a member here.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
There could be heavy sludge accumulating at the bottom of the oil pan that doesn't get picked up by the oil pump and doesn't get burned.
So it's a good idea to bottom-drain once in a while.


This.



Tell that to people who successfully use the dipstick siphoning method for oil and ATF fluid and the'll tell you this is hogwash!
(Myself included).


Your assumption that an engine is sludge free simply because one is able to siphon through the dipstick tube is hogwash.


no sir, I am correct.

If you were correct, then maybe companies like MB should prohibit this from being a common way of changing oil on late model MB's
 
You're missing my point.

You basically said if an engine is sludged, the dipstick tube shouldn't be able to be used to siphon oil. This just isn't the case...

I still haven't heard of a sludged transmission like you mentioned in your OP either.
 
1 qt/2000 miles is nothing and you are not keeping the additive package up by that small amount. I would drain that crud out and do 10k changes in the future.
 
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I did the calculations and your oil has a weighted average life of 6,500 miles on it. This probably too high of average. I suggest changing every 25-30,000 miles.
 
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