I have a 2016 Ford Escape still under warranty and I'm thinking of replacing the factory air filter with a AEM Dryflow but is it really worth it?Do these aftermarket filters make a difference besides not having to replace them every 30k but need to clean them and when you do you may not get 100 percent of the dirt out.The AEM is the only closed end filter besides K&N on the market.Thanks Joe
AEM Dryflow or OEM
- Thread starter Joeforester
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Since your vehicle is still under the factory warranty, you may want to stay with a regular replacement air filter. My brother-in-law(45 year diesel mechanic) explained to me that a factory air filter already flows more air than the engine needs. So as the filter gets dirty, it still flows sufficient air to the engine. And the OE or OE replacement aftermarket air filter traps more harmful dirt than a high performance air filter.
IMHO, these AEM or K&N aftermarket air filters don't work for the daily driver. Not all by themselves anyway!
Over the years, I have put them in several vehicles only to notice nothing in the way of any performance or fuel economy benefits in any of the cars over many years of trial and measuring(MPG & 0-60, 30mph-50/40-60 etc.). Nothing I could feel either!
An aftermarket AEM or K&N air filter may work or add to the performance of an engine in conjunction with other items such as an aftermarket exhaust system, and other engine mods. However an AEM or K&N by themselves(IMHO), is the equivalent of adding extra PSI(by itself) to your tires in hopes of getting extra MPG or (in certain cases)higher octane in hopes of extra performance.
Others may feel different.
IMHO, these AEM or K&N aftermarket air filters don't work for the daily driver. Not all by themselves anyway!
Over the years, I have put them in several vehicles only to notice nothing in the way of any performance or fuel economy benefits in any of the cars over many years of trial and measuring(MPG & 0-60, 30mph-50/40-60 etc.). Nothing I could feel either!
An aftermarket AEM or K&N air filter may work or add to the performance of an engine in conjunction with other items such as an aftermarket exhaust system, and other engine mods. However an AEM or K&N by themselves(IMHO), is the equivalent of adding extra PSI(by itself) to your tires in hopes of getting extra MPG or (in certain cases)higher octane in hopes of extra performance.
Others may feel different.
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Many consumers purchase these aftermarket filters for reasons other than claimed performance or mpg benefits. And i have yet to hear of a confirmed warranty denial other than the typical Internet anecdote.
I have used an AEM DryFlow filter for the past 60k miles and it's filtering capabilities seem decent judging by my UOA's not having high silicon contents. I don't see why it would void the warranty, I think (don't quote me) that K&N and/or AEM have a letter explaining how they meet OEM standards anyways.
More air flow, more dirt particles thru the carb/DE/throttle body. Does it matter in the long run? I don't know, but opt for OEM types.
PS: I have a nice clean little used K&N that fits nearly all Ford Rangers that anyone can have free for price of shipping. Back in 2000 I believed the Hype put out by them.
PS: I have a nice clean little used K&N that fits nearly all Ford Rangers that anyone can have free for price of shipping. Back in 2000 I believed the Hype put out by them.
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Originally Posted By: Joeforester
I have a 2016 Ford Escape still under warranty and I'm thinking of replacing the factory air filter with a AEM Dryflow but is it really worth it? Do these aftermarket filters make a difference besides not having to replace them every 30k but need to clean them and when you do you may not get 100 percent of the dirt out.The AEM is the only closed end filter besides K&N on the market.Thanks Joe
A difference how? What is "worth it" in regards to changing to this type?
I have a 2016 Ford Escape still under warranty and I'm thinking of replacing the factory air filter with a AEM Dryflow but is it really worth it? Do these aftermarket filters make a difference besides not having to replace them every 30k but need to clean them and when you do you may not get 100 percent of the dirt out.The AEM is the only closed end filter besides K&N on the market.Thanks Joe
A difference how? What is "worth it" in regards to changing to this type?
Originally Posted By: wemay
Many consumers purchase these aftermarket filters for reasons other than claimed performance or mpg benefits. And i have yet to hear of a confirmed warranty denial other than the typical Internet anecdote.
Years ago when I worked at a GM dealer a guy bought a brand new K&N and brought his new Cobalt in for an engine light, the new filter had excess oil on it causing MAF problems, guy had to pay out of pocket for new OEM air filter since he tossed his and for a new MAF sensor plus diagnosis and install.
Many consumers purchase these aftermarket filters for reasons other than claimed performance or mpg benefits. And i have yet to hear of a confirmed warranty denial other than the typical Internet anecdote.
Years ago when I worked at a GM dealer a guy bought a brand new K&N and brought his new Cobalt in for an engine light, the new filter had excess oil on it causing MAF problems, guy had to pay out of pocket for new OEM air filter since he tossed his and for a new MAF sensor plus diagnosis and install.
I like the AEM dryflow. It filters quite well and All i have to do is rinse it off every 10k miles. I wash it every 30k or so. Unlike a K&N after washing it, it only has to sit for about 30 minutes before I can put it in my car, start it and drive it around like normal.
OEM or OEM equivalent paper. Unless you're modifying your intake system to a high flow kit, simply replacing the filter is a total waste. Paper filters are cheap and filter great. The air filter is the LEAST restrictive part of your induction system as a whole.
I've got a AFE Prodry filter in my Toyota Tacoma. Every 30K I'll knock the dirt out. 60K I'll wash it.
The F can types like the noise these filters make.
SAVE YOUR $$$$.Use a DENSO air filter element if one is available for your vehicle.
I suggest you stick with a standard filter and install a filter minder, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24801-Filter-Service/dp/B0014BI1KA
It will tell you when your filter is really ready to change.
Since any air filter works more effectively as it collects dirt you'll maximize average efficiency.
You won't need to open the filter housing as often, potentially disturbing dirt and letting it into the intake.
When the restriction reaches 11" is a good time to change the filter, which is about 3% drop in pressure.
I have 38k miles on the current filter in my Matrix and it's at 8".
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24801-Filter-Service/dp/B0014BI1KA
It will tell you when your filter is really ready to change.
Since any air filter works more effectively as it collects dirt you'll maximize average efficiency.
You won't need to open the filter housing as often, potentially disturbing dirt and letting it into the intake.
When the restriction reaches 11" is a good time to change the filter, which is about 3% drop in pressure.
I have 38k miles on the current filter in my Matrix and it's at 8".
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Since your vehicle is still under the factory warranty, you may want to stay with a regular replacement air filter. My brother-in-law(45 year diesel mechanic) explained to me that a factory air filter already flows more air than the engine needs. So as the filter gets dirty, it still flows sufficient air to the engine. And the OE or OE replacement aftermarket air filter traps more harmful dirt than a high performance air filter.
IMHO, these AEM or K&N aftermarket air filters don't work for the daily driver. Not all by themselves anyway!
Over the years, I have put them in several vehicles only to notice nothing in the way of any performance or fuel economy benefits in any of the cars over many years of trial and measuring(MPG & 0-60, 30mph-50/40-60 etc.). Nothing I could feel either!
An aftermarket AEM or K&N air filter may work or add to the performance of an engine in conjunction with other items such as an aftermarket exhaust system, and other engine mods. However an AEM or K&N by themselves(IMHO), is the equivalent of adding extra PSI(by itself) to your tires in hopes of getting extra MPG or (in certain cases)higher octane in hopes of extra performance.
Others may feel different.
AND
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
I suggest you stick with a standard filter and install a filter minder, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24801-Filter-Service/dp/B0014BI1KA
It will tell you when your filter is really ready to change.
Since any air filter works more effectively as it collects dirt you'll maximize average efficiency.
You won't need to open the filter housing as often, potentially disturbing dirt and letting it into the intake.
When the restriction reaches 11" is a good time to change the filter, which is about 3% drop in pressure.
I have 38k miles on the current filter in my Matrix and it's at 8".
These two posts say it all. They are the best advice on an 'everyday' basis. On similar lines, the only thing I'd like too add is that unless you really need every last CFM, in which case you want open ITBs in a huge sealed plenum, the standard paper filter in the standard box is the most favourable option.
But that doesn't take in to account the fun we can have with experimenting! Removing helmholtz chambers in the inlet tract, bigger diameter piping, smooth walls, elliptical entries, thermal insulation, moving MAF up/downstream, and after all that effort it would be a shame not to test various filters. If you want a cone, the S2000 OEM filter is high efficiency and cheap, AirAid, Dryflow, ITG, there are lots of options to choose from.
Experiment and have fun, but keep any parts you remove I case you want to go back to stock in the future.
Since your vehicle is still under the factory warranty, you may want to stay with a regular replacement air filter. My brother-in-law(45 year diesel mechanic) explained to me that a factory air filter already flows more air than the engine needs. So as the filter gets dirty, it still flows sufficient air to the engine. And the OE or OE replacement aftermarket air filter traps more harmful dirt than a high performance air filter.
IMHO, these AEM or K&N aftermarket air filters don't work for the daily driver. Not all by themselves anyway!
Over the years, I have put them in several vehicles only to notice nothing in the way of any performance or fuel economy benefits in any of the cars over many years of trial and measuring(MPG & 0-60, 30mph-50/40-60 etc.). Nothing I could feel either!
An aftermarket AEM or K&N air filter may work or add to the performance of an engine in conjunction with other items such as an aftermarket exhaust system, and other engine mods. However an AEM or K&N by themselves(IMHO), is the equivalent of adding extra PSI(by itself) to your tires in hopes of getting extra MPG or (in certain cases)higher octane in hopes of extra performance.
Others may feel different.
AND
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
I suggest you stick with a standard filter and install a filter minder, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24801-Filter-Service/dp/B0014BI1KA
It will tell you when your filter is really ready to change.
Since any air filter works more effectively as it collects dirt you'll maximize average efficiency.
You won't need to open the filter housing as often, potentially disturbing dirt and letting it into the intake.
When the restriction reaches 11" is a good time to change the filter, which is about 3% drop in pressure.
I have 38k miles on the current filter in my Matrix and it's at 8".
These two posts say it all. They are the best advice on an 'everyday' basis. On similar lines, the only thing I'd like too add is that unless you really need every last CFM, in which case you want open ITBs in a huge sealed plenum, the standard paper filter in the standard box is the most favourable option.
But that doesn't take in to account the fun we can have with experimenting! Removing helmholtz chambers in the inlet tract, bigger diameter piping, smooth walls, elliptical entries, thermal insulation, moving MAF up/downstream, and after all that effort it would be a shame not to test various filters. If you want a cone, the S2000 OEM filter is high efficiency and cheap, AirAid, Dryflow, ITG, there are lots of options to choose from.
Experiment and have fun, but keep any parts you remove I case you want to go back to stock in the future.
Okay, no filter will filter 100. If it did your engine would never see any air. An excellent paper filter tests out at about 99%; a high flow k&n or AEM filter only reaches about 97-98%. You decide if the couple of percentage points lost are worth the additional power, if any made. Only you can make the decision based on suggestions from places like here, your own research, and trial and error. On the side of error I have never seen a single issue from a properly installed, including oiled, air filter. If you can afford it try both to see what you think, hear, and feel. I will say this, in higher horsepower applications freeing up the intake flow has increased engine performance in many applications.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The Donaldson PowerCore is 99.95% efficient and can flow ~1,500cfm depending on the model.
https://www.donaldson.com/content/dam/do...ore-07-2015.pdf
Unfortunately, getting one to fit many applications is a no go. But they are definite the best filter if you can make one work.
https://www.donaldson.com/content/dam/do...ore-07-2015.pdf
Unfortunately, getting one to fit many applications is a no go. But they are definite the best filter if you can make one work.
If you're talking about a drop-in panel filter, it won't make a difference. Stick to OEM.
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