AMSOIL and My experience with it. No lies involved
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ASL - GM piston slap is a no charge feature. Oil isn't a cure.
The older, Group I (solvent refined) petroleum oils would generate deposit buildup even with very short service intervals. I'm not at all surprised that changing to a high solvency synlube would clean out these deposits, or that it took a long time to remove them all.
The Amsoil flush is very effective in removing light to medium deposits if you follow my slightly revised procedure:
1) change just the oil filter and add the flush to the old oil....
2) allow the engine to warm up at normal idle speed for five minutes, then fast idle the engine in neutral @ 2x the normal idle speed (1500-2000 rpms) for a full 30 minutes. (Easiest way to do this is get a brick or piece of cordwood and ease it up against the gas pedal until you have the right rpms on the tack.)
3) Change the oil/filter again and install the synthetic
Note that it is very possible you have some underlying condition that is causing the engine oil to degrade more quickly. So I'd highly recommend having your oil tested (preferrably by Oil Analyzers Inc), to see what the problem is. The reason I recommend OAI is that they work closely with Amsoil and maintain a database of all their current formulation chemistries. This allows them to more easily tell if you're getting abnormal contamination or if the wear pattern looks funky. OAI also tests Amsoil for oxidation and nitration separately, which in the hands of an experienced materials engineer can add a lot of insight.
TS
The Amsoil flush is very effective in removing light to medium deposits if you follow my slightly revised procedure:
1) change just the oil filter and add the flush to the old oil....
2) allow the engine to warm up at normal idle speed for five minutes, then fast idle the engine in neutral @ 2x the normal idle speed (1500-2000 rpms) for a full 30 minutes. (Easiest way to do this is get a brick or piece of cordwood and ease it up against the gas pedal until you have the right rpms on the tack.)
3) Change the oil/filter again and install the synthetic
Note that it is very possible you have some underlying condition that is causing the engine oil to degrade more quickly. So I'd highly recommend having your oil tested (preferrably by Oil Analyzers Inc), to see what the problem is. The reason I recommend OAI is that they work closely with Amsoil and maintain a database of all their current formulation chemistries. This allows them to more easily tell if you're getting abnormal contamination or if the wear pattern looks funky. OAI also tests Amsoil for oxidation and nitration separately, which in the hands of an experienced materials engineer can add a lot of insight.
TS
ASL: I see you live in Alberta and if you happen to be in or near Calgary, there's an oil testing lab near Deerfoot Mall. I had my first fill of Amsoil tested there (1 full year and 26000 kms) and posted the results on here. They seemed quite nice to deal with; pretty quick and they e-mailed me my results. They were even willing to extract the oil for me right there in the parking lot. I'll try and dig up their name if you like (I might do so anyway because I think I'm going to get both our vehicles tested a couple of times this year).
Greg
Greg
The company Horatio is talking about is called Metrotech Systems. Just do a google search for "Metrotech systems calgary" and their site will pop up.
I have used them at least 6 times and they offer a very good service. Be sure to ask them to specify the ppm's of Potassium, alternatively you'll just get a Yes/no to glycol.
You have to ask for TBN as an extra charge.
I have used them at least 6 times and they offer a very good service. Be sure to ask them to specify the ppm's of Potassium, alternatively you'll just get a Yes/no to glycol.
You have to ask for TBN as an extra charge.
Originally Posted By: Anonymous
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
These guys are the best Amsoil dealers I have ever seen.
Can't believe people still remember me!
I tell all my customers, first oil change with AMSOIL go about half. I also like to start them out with one of the lower cost options (OE or XL) run it about 5,000 miles. Then monitor to see what's going on. Engine flush is imperative on engines over a couple years old (30,50K miles) If all is well with that first oil change go to signature series, if it's very dark do another flush and another change with XL and go 5,000 again. After that you should be able to move up to Signature.
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
Can't believe people still remember me!
I tell all my customers, first oil change with AMSOIL go about half. I also like to start them out with one of the lower cost options (OE or XL) run it about 5,000 miles. Then monitor to see what's going on. Engine flush is imperative on engines over a couple years old (30,50K miles) If all is well with that first oil change go to signature series, if it's very dark do another flush and another change with XL and go 5,000 again. After that you should be able to move up to Signature.
A flush on a 30K-50K mile engine?
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
A flush on a 30K-50K mile engine?
Honestly, anyone telling me to flush an engine that's been maintained, regardless of miles, is going to have me walk right away from them. There might be cause to flush an engine that has not been maintained and is all sludged up, although I would probably have concerns about that, too.
robert
A flush on a 30K-50K mile engine?
Honestly, anyone telling me to flush an engine that's been maintained, regardless of miles, is going to have me walk right away from them. There might be cause to flush an engine that has not been maintained and is all sludged up, although I would probably have concerns about that, too.
robert
Originally Posted By: msparks
Originally Posted By: Anonymous
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
These guys are the best Amsoil dealers I have ever seen.
Can't believe people still remember me!
I tell all my customers, first oil change with AMSOIL go about half. I also like to start them out with one of the lower cost options (OE or XL) run it about 5,000 miles. Then monitor to see what's going on. Engine flush is imperative on engines over a couple years old (30,50K miles) If all is well with that first oil change go to signature series, if it's very dark do another flush and another change with XL and go 5,000 again. After that you should be able to move up to Signature.
Flush? How are those mushrooms in TN?
Originally Posted By: Anonymous
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
Can't believe people still remember me!
I tell all my customers, first oil change with AMSOIL go about half. I also like to start them out with one of the lower cost options (OE or XL) run it about 5,000 miles. Then monitor to see what's going on. Engine flush is imperative on engines over a couple years old (30,50K miles) If all is well with that first oil change go to signature series, if it's very dark do another flush and another change with XL and go 5,000 again. After that you should be able to move up to Signature.
Flush? How are those mushrooms in TN?
Originally Posted By: msparks
Originally Posted By: Anonymous
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
These guys are the best Amsoil dealers I have ever seen.
Can't believe people still remember me!
Moreso given the thread you just replied to has been dormant for nearly 11 years!
Originally Posted By: Anonymous
Pablo, Msparks, Tooslick, ****, and Don ALL give excellent information.
Can't believe people still remember me!
Moreso given the thread you just replied to has been dormant for nearly 11 years!
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