275,000 Mile 2005 motor... which oil?

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Hey everyone, I've been a lurker since 2012, but haven't ever needed to post before now. I'm posting because I have some questions regarding the latest and greatest in oil tech that some of the more dated posts can't answer.

I bought my truck new (2005 GMC canyon, 3.5 i5) and only recently started losing oil. I used m1 5w30 since 10k miles and swapped to m1 ep 5w30 around 200k miles in 2012.

I noticed the oil burn about a month ago when I got a low oil light while branding hard, which never happens and I wasn't at my usual OCI yet. No smoke of any kind out of the tailpipe when I get on it, but I do have some pretty nasty black carbon on the outside of the exhaust port now, right around the exit which is new.

So I just ran a tank of 91 ethanol free with a dose of gumout tune up in the crankcase and used it on the head via the TB vacuum port just like seafoaming, ran it for about 80 miles and dumped the oil and put in maxlife blend 5w30 with a treatment of liqui moly oil saver (after seeing the posts here, I figure it can't hurt)

I plan to dump it at 2500 and do the same thing a second time.

Once that is complete, depending on the results, I think it may be time to go to a thicker oil to reduce whatever consumption may be left.

It's a toss up for me as far as maxlife or m1, and if maxlife, do I go full syn or blend? I've always run full syn to date, but I get the feeling that there may be a better fit for my truck than the m1 5w30 at this point.

So... my choices are m1 10w30 ep, m1 10w40 ep, maxlife blend 5w30, maxlife blend 10w30, maxlife blend 10w40, maxlife full syn 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40.

Clearly the m1 5w30 ep is out after this last performance, and it's done it's job well as the truck has aged.

I'm looking for opinions and info supporting which one is the better choice, based on 2017 versions of these.... unfortunately bitog has been around so long that Google has a hard time finding recent info in a search.

I do plan on running a dose of mos2 in whichever oil I choose, and really don't like the idea of going back to a 3k OCI while using the blend...but it's more about engine life and stopping the leak/burn/whatever. No puddles or oil spots in my driveway, in just had it sealed and it would show in a heartbeat if it was an active leak...

Help?
 
Have you looked under it to see if it leaks? My Liberty doesn't leave a drop of oil anywhere (yet?) but, the oil pan has a nice anti rust coating to put it nicely. I'm running 5w30 Maxlife (blend) in it now and I'm not too sure about if it's doing anything yet. Probably will take a few OCIs. With the blend, I'll probably go about 4k on it.

I'd try to stick with 5W30 for the time being, especially being in NY. Give the Maxlife time to work, and then if you get good results, switch to the synthetic one or even Mobil 1 HM.
 
Try just regular Mobil 1 5w30. It had slower burnoff in my sisters Cruze. Also, how much is it burning? Do you check oil level every other fuel stop at least? A quart every 1500mi-2000mi isn't too bad. I don't think I have enough information yet to advise on a drastic change of oil specification.
 
Welcome aboard - had that truck before the current 2010 - look at Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage ... it is a bit thicker, has seal conditioner... more HTHS and anti-wear...
 
Pan is dry, so is the block around the head. M1 isn't working, hence looking for something better.

I saw on here than m1 high mileage had a formulation change around the end of 2015 and about 85% of posts that popped on Google end up with maxlife in the lead, but no hard reasoning either way between pure syn or blend.

Curious to see an analysis of the add packs and sm/sn ratings before making a decision. I have about 2 months before i'll be done with the liqui moly treatments.
 
Lead of what ? Go buy some Maxlife based on that number you believe -
Then if you still have problems figure out what is going on ...
 
Originally Posted By: Goros
...

I noticed the oil burn about a month ago ...
What's its rate of "oil burn"? Did it increase suddenly or gradually?
 
Originally Posted By: Killer223
is your pcv valve functioning correctly? might look into it.
my oil vote is a 10/30.


Agree with PCV check, but OP is in New York so 10w30 is a good summer choice but IMO right now stick with 5w30....
 
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Originally Posted By: 4WD
Welcome aboard - had that truck before the current 2010 - look at Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage ... it is a bit thicker, has seal conditioner... more HTHS and anti-wear...


I was going to say High Mileage oil as well.

Oh, and yeah, change your PCV valve.
 
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Once you go HM the 10w-40's are available in those two brands ... maybe a summer/winter rotation like Tired Trucker mentioned before ... I had two of those I5's - they need to rev a bit to do any work ...
 
Originally Posted By: Killer223
is your pcv valve functioning correctly? might look into it.
my oil vote is a 10/30.

Originally Posted By: salcuta88
I was going to say High Mileage oil as well.

Oh, and yeah, change your PCV valve.


No pcv valve on these inline motors. Just vents in the head itself - I checked both already to make sure it wasn't an overpressure issue, and just in case ran a pipecleaner into the vents and followed it with some deep creep. My oil press stays below 40 on the highway, around 20 idle so I don't think that's the problem.

Originally Posted By: GumbyJarvis
Do you tow anything?
Have you tried a HDEO?


No and not yet. I'd like to think of HDEO as a last resort, these motors are known for getting gunky and carbon fouled, they run a 194 degree tstat and it's not unusual for my oil temp to hit 208 on a normal day. I'm not sure what an HDEO would do to the motor, if anything.

Originally Posted By: CR94
What's its rate of "oil burn"? Did it increase suddenly or gradually?

Suddenly, I've never had the oil light turn on or even flicker in my truck in the 12 years I've owned it. I don't know what the actual rate is because I didn't see a reason to track it until the light went off.


Originally Posted By: 4WD
Lead of what ? Go buy some Maxlife based on that number you believe -
Then if you still have problems figure out what is going on ...



Just google searching HM oils and oil seepage on bitog, about 85% of people come back with maxlife in some form. again, that's with posts from 2008+, so the info is dated and the tech has advanced.

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Once you go HM the 10w-40's are available in those two brands ... maybe a summer/winter rotation like Tired Trucker mentioned before ...


Honestly I'm not even going to start with the 10w40 right off the bat...I'm doing the Maxlife Syn Blend 5w30 right now and probably one more change, then I'll be looking to move up into either a M1 HM 10w30 or Maxlife 10w30 in one of the 2 options. This motor has had nothing but pure syn since day 1, but I wasn't sure if there was a reason for a syn blend in HM, since all of the DEXOS oils seem to be blends +.

10w40 is a last ditch effort to stop the leak IMO, but I'd like to get people's advice as to who wins the technology/quality test on the oils....Maxlife Syn, Maxlife Syn Blend, or M1 HM?

Originally Posted By: 4WD
I had two of those I5's - they need to rev a bit to do any work ...
What's your username on the Nation, if you have one? My truck is a little tweaked, I'm running a stainless shorty with a magnaflow high flow cat and cat-back, 33's with a 7.5" lift and a 91 octane tune pushing an extra 4 degrees, billet servos, line pressure adjustments and no torque management. She gets up and moves when she needs to.

Build thread; http://www.355nation.net/forum/projects-build/56823-insanity-project-new-pics.html
 
Is the oil light for oil pressure or level? Have you been watching the dipstick? What's your OCI?
 
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Oil light is for level apparently, since it only triggered during a hard stop. As soon as I got to my house I pulled the dipstick and when it was dry I immediately added a quart plus to fill.

I have an actual autometer cobalt oil pressure gauge installed, it didn't go below 15.

My usual OCI was 5k-10k depending on my oil life tracker built into the truck. Using the 15k miles Mobil 1 Extended, I wasn't super worried about pushing to 10k on occasion. I did make it to 275,000 miles without any engine treatments or high mileage oils, so I guess I'm lucky.

I watch the dipstick now, but I acted pretty quick to try and fix the problem. I've never had to watch the dipstick before this, even at 10k miles I was never down more than maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of a quart.
 
How does the power feel compared to when you first got it? (Mine was peppy). Think the cylinder compression Is OK ?
 
I go by Sandman - but I'm really just a "read only" on 355 ... BTW - nice run with the truck - I have always considered them a bit underrated - the press attacked the interior often (it is boring) - I did the leather but just OK at best ...
(Easier to get mud off.
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New versions got serious on the interior ...
 
yeah it's got more power now than when it was new, I'm trying to stretch is as far as possible before yanking it and dropping a 3.7 or 5.3 in it. It's a DD so I don't go too crazy with it unless some douchecanoe pulls up next to me at a red light and tries to race me off the line. I'm still on 3.73's, so I'm disadvantaged with 33's, but the gas mileage I get makes up for it (if I went to 4.10's I'd be giving up about 1.5-2 MPG, pushing me down to around 15).

The tune is the key to everything, you can really push the i5 hard and get performance you haven't even though of from a smaller engine.
 
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