2000 Dodge Caravan won't start and no fuel pressure?

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My mother went to leave for work this morn and her 2000 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan won't start. Cranks over but thats it, not even a sputter. Was runnnig fine as of the day before.

Didn't have much time to look at today but I did check the fuel rail valve and just got a dribble of fuel out with the key in the run position.

My mechanic thinks it may be the fuel pump. not a job it want to do in the driveway in Feb. And the Mopar fuel pumps are around $300.

Any help appreciated.
 
17 year old ride, hmmm,,,,,time for a new ride or a newer ride,imho...find a mechanic that knows trouble shooting techniques, a good mech could find the problem in 30 minutes...good luck
 
1) swap the fuel pump relay with another similar relay in the fuse box and see if it works
2)have someone try staring the car while you give a few whacks with a hammer under the gas tank, if it turns on you know the culprit
 
Like CourierDriver stated above, take it to a shop with a good diagnostic culture. It could be the fuel pump. Or it could be a blown fuse, broken wiring, bad relay, or even the theft deterrent system if so equipped. Need to make sure you have current and ground before you go replacing the pump.
 
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I had a similar problem several years ago on my 02. Turned out to be a redundant check valve in the fuel line that was stuck closed. The oem replacement part was a section of fuel line with no check valve.
 
Originally Posted By: Starman2112
Like CourierDriver stated above, take it to a shop with a good diagnostic culture. It could be the fuel pump. Or it could be a blown fuse, broken wiring, bad relay, or even the theft deterrent system if so equipped. Need to make sure you have current and ground before you go replacing the pump.

Yeah, thats what I'll probably have to do. I'm sure my guy can find the issue but it will have to be towed (flatbed) there.

Haven't had a vehicle just die without warning and then need a tow to the shop in a long time.
 
IMO...Sounds like the fuel pump. IMO...Ethanol in your fuel may be the culprit in fuel pump failure.....or maybe not.

If and when your mechanic removes the fuel pump ask him to keep it for your inspection. Lots of corrosion and rust in the unit may be a tell tale sign of ethanol attracting moisture to your fuel. Another reason maybe the unit called it quits after years of service and needed replacement. Let us know what you find out from your mechanic.
 
Very important to keep the tank full as much as possible, the combination of the ethanol combining with condensation & running the pump without a lot of cooling fuel around it usually causes the pump to die. Might need to carry a rubber mallet around to beat on the tank & knock it loose until it can be replaced.
 
Happened to me just like that one day. Mine was a clogged and neglected fuel filter.
Changed it out, she started right up
Hope your problem is that easy also
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Very important to keep the tank full as much as possible, the combination of the ethanol combining with condensation & running the pump without a lot of cooling fuel around it usually causes the pump to die. Might need to carry a rubber mallet around to beat on the tank & knock it loose until it can be replaced.


Is that true today? With evaporative emission systems I don't think that is true, like it used to be with open systems. The tank just isn't allowed to breath willy-nilly.

[If anything, fully drawing down the tank I'd think would be best. If there was any moisture in the gas tank, running it down before filling with fresh gas, as much as possible should displace as much water-bearing gas as possible. But as I stated, I'm not sure that this issue is anything like it used to be.]
 
I add 1.25 ounces of TCW-3 to every 5 Gallons of gas at each fill up. IMO....this has helped keep the fuel system lubed and the cylinders clean especially with ethanol gasoline. If your interested....You can look at the Fuel Additive section to find out more about upper cylinder and fuel system lubricants for the products and dosage amounts.

TCW-3 is ashless so it will burn off clean in the combustion chamber.
 
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Update: Had it towed the mechanic today.

They eventually got it started by holding the gas pedal to the floor to clear a flooded condition, lots of black smoke, so it was loaded up with fuel from all the cranking. Fuel pressure check out at 55 psi and it started and ran fine from then on. He will keep it overnight to see how it starts cold in the morning. He thinks its the fuel pump.

How did it get so flooded? If the fuel pump caused the initial no start, then suddenly began working, yet the engine never fired up?

Thanks
 
Hey Rock.....How did you make out with your mechanic and the fuel pump, fuel system issue? Was it a corroded fuel pump or another issue with the fuel system? Let us know what they determined to be the problem and how they resolved the issue.
Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Hey Rock.....How did you make out with your mechanic and the fuel pump, fuel system issue? Was it a corroded fuel pump or another issue with the fuel system? Let us know what they determined to be the problem and how they resolved the issue.
Thanks.


Well, once they got it started it coughed out a lot of black smoke, (very flooded), but the the problem never repeated itself and so far it is starting and running fine. I don't think it was a fuel system issue after all, just wouldn't start for some reason then all the cranking attempts flooded it.

It never occurred to me that fuel injected engines can get flooded out so easily so I didn't really try the old carburetor trick of holding the pedal to the floor while cranking to clear the flooded condition. Plus, I didn't want to overheat the starter or kill the battery with excessive cranking.
 
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