Anode Rod - the CONCLUSION

[larryinnewyork]

Well, I just finished changing the Anode Rod in the Hot Water Tank.
The Tank is 11 years old and had the 'original' rod.
It didn't look to bad and most of it was still there (like 99%)
It did have some mineral deposits that may have been insulating it from the water.

My suggestions for anybody contemplating doing this.
1) I had to buy a 'segmented' Anode Rod.
2) I bought an Electric Impact Wrench from Harbor Freight and used it for removing the old Rod.
3) I hung (2) plumb-bobs from the ceiling joists and was able to confirm the Tank did not move any.
4) I bought a 3/4" NPT tap to clean up the threads.
5) I also installed a 3/4" Ball-Valve in the drain with a fitting for the garden hose.


Problems: There was only (1)
I had a water leak where I screwed in the Anode Rod (using tape and paste).
I ended up putting more tape on it and I had to make it super tight.
After several attempts, it stopped leaking.

Maybe that's why the Manufacturer makes them so tight in the first place.
But I'm no plumber.

For the next time, I would like to find a 'sealant' that may do a better job so I won't have to
screw the Rod in so tight. (that must be stretching the threads abit).

 

[Delta]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
For the next time, I would like to find a 'sealant' that may do a better job so I won't have to
screw the Rod in so tight. (that must be stretching the threads abit).


Yellow Teflon tape. It's twice the thickness; made for gas fittings, but works great for iron threads.

 

[fields]

All I ever use in the teflon tape is the for GAS use.

 

[edwardh1]

it may be that the people who make water heaters DONT want you to change the anode rod, (so they will sell more tanks. )
There must be a way to make it easier to change (the elements are easy to change, why not the anode rods?)

 

[Bebop367]

My favorites:

LA-CO SLIC-TITE® PASTE WITH PTFE (very good on Hot steam etc.)
or
Loctite 567 (very good on Stainless Steel) Best all around but not cheap

 

[larryinnewyork]

OP here,

My first attempt I used the 'yellow' gas tape (2 wraps) and put some 'sealing' paste (Rectorseal Tplus2 / Teflon enriched) over the tape.
My guess is I tightened it to 75 Ft. Lbs.

My second attempt I 'only' used Oatey FASTape (8 wraps) (gray color).
My guess is I tightened it to 150 Ft. Lbs.
This worked, but only because I kept tightening it.

What makes one 'paste' better than another ? ? ? The labels all read the same.
But I will consider your suggestions.

If a Plumber wants to mount several Ball-Valves next to each other and have the Handles
facing the operator, he may not be able to completely tighten. So he would be depending more on the Sealant.

Thanks for the advise. At least I have several years before I deal with this again.

 

[Rand]

Why do people break up the same topic into multiple posts?

Sounds interesting though, unfortunately I'll never be doing it to my hybrid hot water tank.. no access with the compressor on top.

OTOH it saves me about 10$ a month.

I put it on aux heat (2 elements only) and the electric bill went up $10-15
I tried regular mode 1 element +compressor it seemed about 5$ cheaper but not enough to notice
on eco mode -just compressor it definitely saves $10-15 a month although the recovery time is garbage. IF it was more than the 2 of us showering, dishwasher on "sanitary mode", and washing clothes I probably couldn't run eco mode.

If it self destructs I'd be tempted to go powervent gas with the cheap natural gas prices.. although the new hybrids are interesting too.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
it may be that the people who make water heaters DONT want you to change the anode rod, (so they will sell more tanks. )
There must be a way to make it easier to change (the elements are easy to change, why not the anode rods?)


+1 million

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
OP here,

My first attempt I used the 'yellow' gas tape (2 wraps) and put some 'sealing' paste (Rectorseal Tplus2 / Teflon enriched) over the tape.
My guess is I tightened it to 75 Ft. Lbs.

My second attempt I 'only' used Oatey FASTape (8 wraps) (gray color).
My guess is I tightened it to 150 Ft. Lbs.
This worked, but only because I kept tightening it.

What makes one 'paste' better than another ? ? ? The labels all read the same.
But I will consider your suggestions.

If a Plumber wants to mount several Ball-Valves next to each other and have the Handles
facing the operator, he may not be able to completely tighten. So he would be depending more on the Sealant.

Thanks for the advise. At least I have several years before I deal with this again.



Hey man, congrats for doing it and thanks very much to you and your thread. I learned something new and changed mine on time too! By any chance any pictures of the old rod?

I used 4-5 wraps of white teflon tape and used same impact(which I used forfor removing it), but never used a lot of pounding for tightening it. So far, I have no leak. I saw on multiple youtube video and forums, to use teflon tape because that can avoid the leak.

 

[JimPghPA]

Originally Posted By: Rand
Why do people break up the same topic into multiple posts?

Sounds interesting though, unfortunately I'll never be doing it to my hybrid hot water tank.. no access with the compressor on top.

OTOH it saves me about 10$ a month.

I put it on aux heat (2 elements only) and the electric bill went up $10-15
I tried regular mode 1 element +compressor it seemed about 5$ cheaper but not enough to notice
on eco mode -just compressor it definitely saves $10-15 a month although the recovery time is garbage. IF it was more than the 2 of us showering, dishwasher on "sanitary mode", and washing clothes I probably couldn't run eco mode.

If it self destructs I'd be tempted to go powervent gas with the cheap natural gas prices.. although the new hybrids are interesting too.


I worked for the company that initially invented and developed those heat-pump water heaters back in 1978 and 1979.

 

[Vikas]

Hold on a second, the old one was 99% good as you said. If so, shouldn't that be the reason enough to leave it alone?

 

[PSS]

Sounds like you did a good job. especially adding the ball valve.

What is your water source? I replaced mine a while back after 10 years and it was in good shape. I have nice Lake Michigan water so maybe the chemistry is better than well water.

I've read on some plumbing forums that some people use both tape and sealant which I started to do just to be extra safe.

 

[tvaughn0712]

FYI: The anode rod depends on a physical electrical connection to the tank to do its magic. I haven't had any issues with the teflon insulating it too much as when you tighten it the threads tend to break through, but just to be safe if you have a ohmmeter laying around check for continuity between the top of the anode rod and the tank. You should get the same approximate reading as when you touch the leads together

 

[DBMaster]

I'd sure like to just be able to remove my anode. I have a $30 segmented rod (my heater is on a platform in the garage with the ceiling only a couple of feet above it.) sitting around that I bought five years ago. I've tried a long breaker bar which only shifted the whole heater and I've tried an electric impact wrench held on the nut until the socket started to heat up. I don't have air tools, but I think that's about what it will take to break mine loose.

 

[sleddriver]

To DBM: Anyway to heat it first with a torch?

 

[DBMaster]

Originally Posted By: sleddriver
To DBM: Anyway to heat it first with a torch?


Yes, I could try that, but there is a plastic insert in the hole around the top nut. Maybe it's just there to cover the sharp edge of the hole in the outer case of the heater? I'm a bit nervous about burning it away, but if I knew for sure that heating the thing would allow it to break loose I might be willing to go for it.

 

[DBMaster]

The plastic insert popped out with a quick pry using a small screwdriver. No success after heating it. I am going to see what a local plumber might charge me to change it the first time. It may be worth paying if it extends the life of the heater. Then, hopefully, I'd be able to change it myself after that.

 

[zzyzzx]

This thread is useless without pictures of the old anode.
I am also curious as to how difficult it was to replace the drain valve. I would have changed mine long ago, but I figure that's best done on a new tank, since I might break something.

 

[DBMaster]

I called a highly recommended local plumber who runs a mom & pop company in my area. He's been a licensed plumber for forty years. He told me that, in our area, replacing the anode was not really necessary, but it is important to drain sediment a couple of times a year. I told him about my attempts to remove the anode and he felt that everything I tried was valid and that applying more torque than what I have already applied could crack the tank or break the nut from the top of the anode rod.

I just found it refreshing that he wasn't trying to drum up business and took the time to explain the effects of our local water chemistry on heater parts.

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I'd sure like to just be able to remove my anode. I have a $30 segmented rod (my heater is on a platform in the garage with the ceiling only a couple of feet above it.) sitting around that I bought five years ago. I've tried a long breaker bar which only shifted the whole heater and I've tried an electric impact wrench held on the nut until the socket started to heat up. I don't have air tools, but I think that's about what it will take to break mine loose.


Go to Home Depot and pick up a 3-4 foot section of iron pipe and put it on the end of your breaker bar. I had 8 water heaters, with 4 of them, it wouldn't move with the 18 inch breaker bar, same thing, it shifted the tank instead of breaking it loose. Once I put the iron pipe on, they did move, a couple of them with a loud crack noise. I also sprayed down the nut first with some Kroil. The tanks were older anyway so I was willing to take the risk that it might break, but they were all fine.