Rear main seal R&R cost

[supton]

Finally got a chance to look. Dripping out of the oil switch sensor. Think all I need to do is tighten it. Weird for it to leak, but I can watch it drip.

Dripping from the area of the oil pump also, go figure.

Edit: wasn't sure what the sensor was at first, pretty sure it was oil, so I unplugged it (while running). Oddly enough it did not set the oil lamp! But watching youtube has verified it is indeed the oil pressure sensor.

Edit: messing with it leads me to think it's actually bad--oil on the plastic body. Will replace, as it feels pretty tight already.

 

[mk378]

Those switches commonly spring internal leaks and need replacement.

With no oil pressure, the switch closes a circuit to ground to turn the light on. So if you unplug the wire the light won't be coming on at all.

 

[supton]

Thanks.

Ugh. Made it halfway through, and it started pouring on me. Did the oil pump seal and o-ring (what a pain to get the nut off!), was just digging into the water pump.

 

[Nick1994]

That belt doesn't look too bad, but they say it doesn't matter what it looks like, many snap and look great.

Here's what the original one on my 97 Camry looked like:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3205932/1

 

[supton]

Pulled off a GMB roller and tensioner--forget if that is OEM or not. Oil pump o-ring was shot, no doubt about that. Putting that o-ring in was a pain. Well, not evil; probably should have used RTV or something to hold in place. Crossing my fingers that it works properly. Then again, it should take half as long next time...

Rain gave up. Back at it.

I got the Aisin water pump, the one with the housing, but right now it's stuck in place. Don't know what coolant line runs on the back of it, but it refuses to pull off. Everything is loose, but just won't give it up.

Got a couple hours tomorrow that I can do a bit on this, then head out of state for a funeral. Hopefully I can get back to it Mon afternoon/night.

 

[Nick1994]

My tensioner and roller had Japan stamped on them. Maybe yours was done?

Did you log into the Toyota Owner's portal and check the service history?

 

[supton]

Might have been done. I pulled SenSen struts off it, which I recall not being OEM--but PO never said anything about struts. I don't think I got the full service history... [Well I know I didn't. Not that I care.]

I did log into the owner's portal, and struck out. Zip for records.

I'm digging this warm snap. Must have hit 60 today. Wish I had decided to dig into this job earlier in the day. Like before the rain.

Supposed to be cooler and windy tomorrow. Still, it's like half done. As long as I get it before it snows I should be ok.

 

[supton]

Water pump on. Alternator won't go back in. Time to call it for the night, I'm pooped.

 

[Nick1994]

If you need a picture for how the alternator bolts back up I can snap some pics

 

[supton]

I see how it goes together, but the durn thing just won' slide in. You know the pivot point, nearest the block? It's like an interference fit for some reason. I think it's possible that the bushing (under the bolt head) can slide a bit. Might just need the same lovin' that the water pump needed.

 

[Vikas]

alternator on 99 Camry? doesn't the thing is right there in front? I always thought it would be the easiest replacement when the time comes for it to be replaced.

 

[The_Eric]

Probably a matter of tapping the movable tube back a fraction of an inch. Manufacturers use those to account for varying width parts- there should be a split or solid steel tube that is lightly pressed into the bracket. Just tap it back and the alternator will go right in. When you tighten the bolt, it will slide right over to the alt and clamp it in place.

 

[supton]

Yep. C-clamp and an oversized socket, and the alternator slid right where it should be. I contemplated whacking it with a hammer, but common sense prevailed.

All done. 10 hours, roughly. Oil pump o-ring and oil seal (cam and crank seals left alone, no signs of leaking). Water pump, thermostat. It took at least 5 quarts to fill, in a 6.7 qt system--close enough that I didn't bother with flushing. Quick spin and all seems fine. Just have to replace that oil pump switch.

Will say they could have done several things better. The large bracket that holds top torque reaction arm--yeah, the lower bolts were fun. Worst part was finding TDC marks. Hey, it was raining on me when I marked the belt. Couldn't make sense of the paint marks so had to find TDC. Cam was so-so (have to use mirror) but the crank... had to do by feel, then scribe a mark. Just doing that timing was an hour.

Getting belt tension was a bit odd. It would have been better if I had removed the plugs. I found the tensions in the engine could conspire to get the belt loose then tight (engine compression, valve springs). I wound up finding a natural low tension spot, where both crank and cam were "loose", then made sure the belt was tensioned. Then tightened the bolt.

Not quite as bad as I feared.

 

[funflyer]

Originally Posted By: supton
Yep. C-clamp and an oversized socket, and the alternator slid right where it should be. I contemplated whacking it with a hammer, but common sense prevailed.

All done. 10 hours, roughly. Oil pump o-ring and oil seal (cam and crank seals left alone, no signs of leaking). Water pump, thermostat. It took at least 5 quarts to fill, in a 6.7 qt system--close enough that I didn't bother with flushing. Quick spin and all seems fine. Just have to replace that oil pump switch.

Will say they could have done several things better. The large bracket that holds top torque reaction arm--yeah, the lower bolts were fun. Worst part was finding TDC marks. Hey, it was raining on me when I marked the belt. Couldn't make sense of the paint marks so had to find TDC. Cam was so-so (have to use mirror) but the crank... had to do by feel, then scribe a mark. Just doing that timing was an hour.

Getting belt tension was a bit odd. It would have been better if I had removed the plugs. I found the tensions in the engine could conspire to get the belt loose then tight (engine compression, valve springs). I wound up finding a natural low tension spot, where both crank and cam were "loose", then made sure the belt was tensioned. Then tightened the bolt.

Not quite as bad as I feared.


I'm surprised the oil pump o-ring wasn't leaking, or at least seeping oil as they are a known problem. Last one I changed was on a 96 Camry and was leaking like a sieve. The o-ring was hard as a rock and fell out in several pieces when I removed the pump. Keep your eye on it because it will eventually start to leak. It's very easy to fix and costs less than $5.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Congratulation on a job accomplished. Always nice to experience a success or two.

 

[supton]

Actually, I did the o ring, as it was leaking. Rock hard, fell apart while removing.

Removing that nut was a pain (for the seal). Put a strap wrench onto it and used an impact. Could not do otherwise. Might have been marginally easier to do on the car.