Repair or replace

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Hey everyone so I'm having to run my electric dryer at home 2 and 3 times to dry a regular load of laundry.
It's a whirlpool I bought it used a year ago for $50 it ended up being under a tarp outside but was in overall ok condition.
However since it's been acting up I'm not sure what would be wrong with it the vent is not clogged . Maybe the element is getting weak but isn't bad completely is that possible? I thought they either worked or didn't. Would you sink money into it ? Or buy a new one ? Thoughts an opinions please.
 
My first question would be to ask what kind of vent (and length/elbows) you're running?
VentMaterial.JPG
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
My first question would be to ask what kind of vent (and length/elbows) you're running?
VentMaterial.JPG

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
My first question would be to ask what kind of vent (and length/elbows) you're running?
VentMaterial.JPG

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
My first question would be to ask what kind of vent (and length/elbows) you're running?
VentMaterial.JPG



It's a short piece of 3 that runs to the floor and the the 4th option is the kind that it connects to and runs under the house and out the hole in the side of the house. It's the same setup it's always had I had other dryers work great with it and this used to work ok with it . There's no loops or bends it's a pretty clear straight shot.
 
Ok. This is a pet peeve of mine; rigid aluminum duct (#2) is cheap, easy to put together (just seal the connections with proper tape), super-slick (no lint buildup), and flows a ton of air (relatively speaking). I'd highly recommend it as an easy weekend project for you.

As for the dryer itself, all you need to diagnose is a multimeter:
 
I assume you checked everything from the filter in the dryer to the point where it hooks up to the vent line. A dryer "under a tarp outside" would be a perfect place for a critter to build a nice little nest. It's also possible for lint to get past the filter and clog up inside the dryer between the filter and the point where your vent pipe connects.

How do you know the rest of the vent is not clogged? Have you actually cleaned it? Checked the outside of the vent to make sure there is no buildup at the cover flap?
 
Once you are sure it isn't a clogged vent or filter, there is likely a thermostat that tells the heating element when to turn on and off. It may well be the culprit.

It's not expensive...for my gas Maytag it was
While I had it apart I vacuumed out all lint inside to reduce any potential fire source. Could be a good time to do the drum belt too.
 
I repaired my sisters electric LG dryer a few years ago. All it needed was a thermal switch. She neglected to clean the lint filter which broke the switch by design for safety reasons. I got it locally for around $15 at Dayton Appliance in Columbus. Not that hard to diagnose using a multimeter.
 
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If its still relatively new, if its beyond ur skills find someone on craigslist who can diagnose it for cheap, worst case you lose x $ finding out its not worth it..or it might be a 15$ part that saves you from buying new.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
I repaired my sisters electric LG dryer a few years ago. All it needed was a thermal switch. She neglected to clean the lint filter which broke the switch by design for safety reasons. I got it locally for around $15 at Dayton Appliance in Columbus. Not that hard to diagnose using a multimeter.


Mine stops heating at like the 30minute countdown mark. (Maybe I should wait a few days and post separately)
It heats nice 'n hot as [censored] when initially turned up to the 70min mark, and heats then all the way down to appx 30 min. then basically tumbles cold. Would that be thermal switch or maybe one coil of a three coil heating element broken? I have no clue.
 
The entire exhaust system works fine from the filter to the vent outside. It does get warm just doesn't seem as warm at it should be.
 
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