UPS battery maintenance?

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I haven't been able to find a definite answer on this by googling, and the owner's manual doesn't mention anything, so asking BITOG...

I have a CyberPower CP825LCD Intelligent LCD UPS. Nothing fancy. Does the battery in these things require any periodic maintenance, specifically like letting it discharge and recharge, maybe once a year? Just curious as I haven't touched it in the 3-4 years that I've used it, and I don't think we've ever lost power either.
 
No, generally the devices run a self-test periodically and will notify you once the battery has packed it in. I've found that they last significantly longer when they do not go on battery frequently when compared to those I have installed at locations that see more frequent interruptions. So if anything, a periodic discharge may shorten its life.
 
Probably has a sealed lead-acid battery in it, discharging it does not improve them. You might just unplug it occasionally to check to make sure it can still keep your computer alive long enough to shut down; older APC units had a nasty habit of constantly charging the sealed batteries and killing them eventually. Usually discovered when that random power failure occurs and the UPS battery can't hack it.
 
I'm actually selling EU range CyberPower/Nitram UPS/EPS. Dave & Overkill are right. You should set up a periodic self-test to check if the voltage drop isn't too fast (battery would need replacement). I replace them after 2 years on critical setups (if not done before).
 
Thanks all.

It is connected to a Linux machine, so there is no GUI management console that I know of. I can just send commands to it via the terminal. When I execute a test it just returns a "Passed" result and that's about it.
 
PowerPanel is the software you want and exist on win/mac/linux. Download available on product page
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Superflan
PowerPanel is the software you want and exist on win/mac/linux. Download available on product page
smile.gif


Yes, that's what I'm using, but it doesn't have a GUI on Linux, only command line interface.

But I guess a GUI won't tell me anything more about the condition of the battery other than "Passed" as well.
 
Code:


Properties:

Model Name................... CP825LCD

Firmware Number.............. AEC7101.251

Rating Voltage............... 120 V

Rating Power................. 450 Watt



Current UPS status:

State........................ Power Failure

Power Supply by.............. Battery Power

Utility Voltage.............. 0 V

Output Voltage............... 120 V

Battery Capacity............. 100 %

Remaining Runtime............ 58 min.

Load......................... 49 Watt(11 %)

Test Result.................. Passed at 2017/02/22 13:27:59

Last Power Event............. Blackout at 2017/02/22 14:27:10
 
The UPS batteries are usually China's cheapest AGM's, and the UPS chargers are simple low current single voltage compromises, designed to hold the battery full.

That is different that what the battery would desire, if/When it is deeply discharged.

These same batteries are also used in Lead acid jumper packs, ansd these also employ the single voltage low amperage wall wart transformer/chargers.

When Jumper packs are depleted the batteries within would be much happier if they were given ~ 30% of their capacity in charging amperage until voltage rises to 14.5 to 14.9v, and then that voltage held until the amps required to maintain it taper to 0.5% of the battery capacity.

Obviously this requires special equipment and some measuring tools other than just a voltmeter, so they would never recommend this.

As far as maintaining a UPS battery, Well, perhaps a deeper cycle and a higher amp recharge every once and a while applied every so often would be better than the UPS holding it at 13.6v always.

I deeply Cycle a Northstar AGM battery often, and I know that when i do float it for days on end, then cycle it, the voltage it holds during discharge is not as good as the day after I high amp recharge it from a deeply depleted state.

This PDF says to limit charge current to 0.35C and voltage to 14.9 on the widely used UB12120:

http://powerupco.com/site/wp-content/files/Batteries/UPG/UB12120.pdf

0.35c on a 12Ah battery is 4.2 amps. So the upper end charging limits would be to charge this depleted battery at 4.2 amps until voltgae goes to 14.9v

This is much different than the 13.6v 1 to 1.5 amp charger supplied with Jumperpacks or UPS systems.

While it can be argued the 1.5 amps at 13.6v simply takes longer to recharge the battery to full, I can argue the depleted AGM battery prefers higher charge currents when deeply depleted, and the 'trickle' charge is always best mentality does not apply to AGM's.

If one is really worried about thir UPS battery will not give them enough time for a proper shutdown, Perhaps a deeper cycle with a higher amp recharge at the limits of the batteries specs would be good for it, as long as the discharge was done quickly and the higher amperage recharge applied immediately.

But how much improvement, if any, would be hard to measure outside a laboratory.

And applying 4.2 amps to a 12AH AGM until it hits 14.5 to 14.9v at 77F and holding that voltage until amps taper to 0.06amps, is well outside the capabilities of most everybody's tools.

But if the battery were to be deeply cycled regularly, and I was responsible for attaining maximum battery life, that is how I would insist it be recharged.

Also note, Odyssey batteries, Thin plate pure lead AGM batteries, while a different beast than a chinese made AGM, has a 'reconditioning' procedure where they recommend quickly draining the battery to 10 volts than applying a very large amperage charging source until 14.7v is reached, then amps taper to near Zero, then discharge again to 10.0 volts under a big load and recharge again at high rate.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

Is this 'recovery' procedure applicable to a cheapo Asian AGM battery made for a UPS system?
Will it restore capacity and improve its lifespan and allow one to have more time to shut computer down properly?

Well I suspect so, but Without performing the tests myself will not outright say it will.

And besides it is a lot of effort, and if the goal is enough time to shut down the computer, then a battery replaced more often, or replaced with a larger capacity battery, well both are easier than removing the battery loading it until it hits 10 volts then recharging it at 0.35c until 14.5 to 14.9v is attained, then holding that voltage until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity.

But the maintenance minded Bitoger seeking to extend the life of their UPS's AGM battery, might enjoy the process and the warm and fuzzies it could possible give
 
APC's have a built in money timer ...to let you kkow when to send them more for a new battery. They self test by regularly loading/discharging themselves internally to generate a battery life left number. In doing so IMO the cycling wears out the batteries prematurely.
 
I've had various UPSs apart to repair them.

The nasty trick is that they push the battery hard by keeping the battery at the point of near-over charge, so when you need it it runs longer.

The trade-off is that they bake the batteries in 2 - 3 years.

They also want a quick recovery time after a power failure, so fast charging gases the battery a little each time. Once a significant amount of jelled electrolyte has dried, the battery is dead.
 
I have several UPS units which I have had to replace batteries before. When they went bad I noticed several things. They start to heat up, swell up, making them difficult to remove and when removed, they measure less than 12v. They do last several years before they go bad.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
APC's have a built in money timer ...to let you kkow when to send them more for a new battery. They self test by regularly loading/discharging themselves internally to generate a battery life left number. In doing so IMO the cycling wears out the batteries prematurely.


Twaddle. The periodic test on an APC UPS does not scratch the surface of a cycle. What kills them is until the APC SUA series in the early 00s none of them had temperature compensated charging. They all try and sit at the absolute limit for float voltage which causes faster plate corrosion and their charging reference resistors tend to drift over the years. They predominantly drift high and cook batteries. They aim for the top of the float voltage to eek out the last couple of minutes of runtime.

All (even the latest) units have the same voltage reference circuits and they all drift the same way. The only advantage with the SUA and later units is you can re-calibrate the battery measurement in firmware and compensate for the drifting hardware.

Grab an APC UPS, modify it to drop the battery float voltage down to the lower end of the recommended cell float voltage and you'll see 5+ years out of a sat of batteries, even with the "premature wear" caused by the 7-14 day self-tests.

Quality UPS units use quality batteries. There really is a difference between cheap and decent Chinese SLAs and you can go Vietnamese for another level again. I've got a set of Vision 55AH units here that were manufactured in 2004, put into service in 2007 and when I measured them last year were still at rated capacity. 10 years of 14 day self tests (that's 260 self tests). I've had good luck with CSB also. Most APC come with CSB in them. The CSB have a design life of 5 years while the Visions have a 10 year target.

Keep the voltage within specs and keep the temperature down and they'll last. Half the life for every 10C increase.
 
While not for everybody, I remove the 2 UPS 12V internal batteries when dead, and hook up a used aircraft 24V lead acid, 44AH battery. It keeps my TV and Direct TV receiver completely functional for the better part of a day.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
While not for everybody, I remove the 2 UPS 12V internal batteries when dead, and hook up a used aircraft 24V lead acid, 44AH battery. It keeps my TV and Direct TV receiver completely functional for the better part of a day.


I'm not dumping on this idea. Lots of people do it. There are couple of factors to watch out for in doing this.

Most consumer UPS are designed with the thermal capacity to last as long as the designed battery capacity without "melting down" (technical term that). Extending the run-time *can* (not saying it will) cause the device to generate and hold more heat than it can get rid of. The best way to tackle this is grossly oversize the UPS (for example I use extended run on a 3KVA UPS with a 600W load. No issues with 5 hours of runtime because it has a big enough fan to dissipate the heat. 5 hours at 3KVA would kill it quickly). Smaller consumer UPS are worse for this as they have no fans and rely on thermal mass and the resulting inertia. This is quickly overwhelmed when you extend the runtime.

The second depends on battery chemistry. UPS are designed to float the batteries at the top end of the rated SLA float voltage. If you substitute another construction (like using flooded lead acid) you will find you have to frequently add water as they boil. The continuous high voltage charge heats up the batteries, the charger and causes rapid plate corrosion resulting in drastically reduced battery life. Of course using a high capacity SLA instead mitigates these issues, but real high capacity SLAs are spendy when compared to cheap car batteries or commodity "deep cycle" flooded lead acids.

Of course you can modify the UPS to deliver the correct charge voltage (and even proper thermal compensation), but then you are getting to the point it would be easier to have picked up a better UPS.
 
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
Originally Posted By: Cujet
While not for everybody, I remove the 2 UPS 12V internal batteries when dead, and hook up a used aircraft 24V lead acid, 44AH battery. It keeps my TV and Direct TV receiver completely functional for the better part of a day.


I'm not dumping on this idea. Lots of people do it. There are couple of factors to watch out for in doing this.

Most consumer UPS are designed with the thermal capacity to last as long as the designed battery capacity without "melting down" (technical term that). Extending the run-time *can* (not saying it will) cause the device to generate and hold more heat than it can get rid of. The best way to tackle this is grossly oversize the UPS (for example I use extended run on a 3KVA UPS with a 600W load. No issues with 5 hours of runtime because it has a big enough fan to dissipate the heat. 5 hours at 3KVA would kill it quickly). Smaller consumer UPS are worse for this as they have no fans and rely on thermal mass and the resulting inertia. This is quickly overwhelmed when you extend the runtime.

The second depends on battery chemistry. UPS are designed to float the batteries at the top end of the rated SLA float voltage. If you substitute another construction (like using flooded lead acid) you will find you have to frequently add water as they boil. The continuous high voltage charge heats up the batteries, the charger and causes rapid plate corrosion resulting in drastically reduced battery life. Of course using a high capacity SLA instead mitigates these issues, but real high capacity SLAs are spendy when compared to cheap car batteries or commodity "deep cycle" flooded lead acids.

Of course you can modify the UPS to deliver the correct charge voltage (and even proper thermal compensation), but then you are getting to the point it would be easier to have picked up a better UPS.


True.

I neglected to mention that the battery I choose is a Sealed Lead Acid, much like the originals. And that I purchase the largest capacity APC brand UPS's the local computer store carries. The TV and Direct TV tuner load is a fraction of the unit's capacity. The UPS's graphic display shows the load to be about 1/3 of it's maximum, so I think well within the "safe zone" . I've run it for days without issue during our frequent summertime power outages. Last year was particularly bad, due to one piece of bad power company (FPL) equipment, our neighborhood was having daily outages during rain. And often 12 hour blocks of time where the power simply would not come back on for more than a minute.

The UPS w/big battery really shined during all this.
 
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