F-250 Ball Joint Replacement

[mobilaltima]

I've finally made time to do the ball joints on my F250, I'll be doing them Friday. First time I do ball joints, I'll be borrowing all the necessary tools from a friend. Its 2WD with the twin I beam front suspension. Any tips or tricks to make the job go easier? I'll be buying the ball joints from O'Reillys, my choices are MOOG upper and lower for $164 total, Rare Parts (which I heard is a great product) for $278 total, or TTX for $133 total. All are greasable, when it comes to ball joints should I go with the best for this truck or would I be ok with either of the two cheaper choices as long as they are kept properly greased?

 

[zvm77us]

Did you price it out through rockauto or amazon, it may be less expensive?

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

greasable is key, I grease 'em twice a year!

 

[Thax]

MOOG ball joints would be a fine choice for your truck. Good solid parts from Federal-Mogul.

 

[KJSmith]

I can't remember exact, but I think you knock the bottom out first then the top, then the top goes in first.
If you look at it and think about it you'll see.
You might need a press to reinstall.
You need an alignment check when your done.

 

[barkingspider]

Maybe easier to replace the entire upper a arm assembly. I replaced ball joints only before, PITA, had to drill them out and pound the metal piece out w an air hammer, heat, etc, then I had to press the new ones on which took some "fanageling" (sp) to get it straight. On my next truck and all since then, I replaced the entire a arm assembly (new ball joint) included. It's a little more $$ but saved a ton of time and hassle. On the escalade in my sig, I replaced the entire front suspension w Moog and energy suspension parts, and all w grease fittings. Works like new. Good luck

 

[Kruse]

If you plan on using Moog, get the "Problem Solver" line, not the cheapie, economy "R" line. The "R" line is made to compete with all the junk coming over from China nowadays.
Since you seem to want the greaseable joints, make sure you grease them properly. First, you don't use the $.97/tube stuff that people always seem to grab. You get a good, EP (extreme pressure) grease made for chassis components. Also, everyone seems to want to give them too much grease. After you put in a new part, you grease it so that there is just enough grease in the ball joint. And don't ever grease them so much that the rubber boot pops. If you ever see a ball joint that looks like it's pregnant and ready to pop, don't grease it. Once the boot is popped, water and dirt get in. You also grease ball joints with them having no pressure on them. Grease them with the wheels off the ground. And don't ever let anybody else grease your vehicle. Seems like every quickie lube in the nation wants to shoot grease into them until grease pops out so that they can show the customer that they've greased it and have a reason to charge you $10 for a lube job.
Or....you could just get a non-greaseable replacement part.

 

[Johnny2Bad]

Poor quality Ball Joints have been known to fail prematurely. I'd go with the known quantity rather than trying too hard to save a few dollars.

 

[dlundblad]

Does Rock Auto have Dana Spicers? No idea if you even have Dana parts on your front end since it's a 2WD.

I bought both sides for my Jeep for $100. OEM parts too.. not aftermarket.

 

[LeakySeals]

Does ECLB stand for Extended Club? I just looked up Rockauto and it says the 2wd lowers and uppers are the same used today.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=418941&jsn=10530 (lower, $23.79 ea.)

 

[nwjones18]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Does ECLB stand for Extended Club? I just looked up Rockauto and it says the 2wd lowers and uppers are the same used today.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=418941&jsn=10530 (lower, $23.79 ea.)


Extended Cab Long Bed.

I'd go with the moog myself, and I'd be buying from rockauto or amazon for the best price.

 

[Langanobob]

My F250 is 4WD so this may not apply to yours, but you might check a shop manual. There is a definite procedure for torquing the ball joint nuts. Something like first torque the lower to half the recommended torque, tighten the upper, then go back and finish torquing the lower. Details like that are why you are smart to do your own work. Few shops will do it correctly. I used Moog Problem Solver ball joints and they were very stiff for several hundred miles but are fine now. I have read several complaints about them being stiff. There is another brand called XRF that seems to be highly recommended. I don't know where they're made and I try to use made in USA whenever possible.
.

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: barkingspider
Maybe easier to replace the entire upper a arm assembly. I replaced ball joints only before, PITA, had to drill them out and pound the metal piece out w an air hammer, heat, etc, then I had to press the new ones on which took some "fanageling" (sp) to get it straight. On my next truck and all since then, I replaced the entire a arm assembly (new ball joint) included. It's a little more $$ but saved a ton of time and hassle. On the escalade in my sig, I replaced the entire front suspension w Moog and energy suspension parts, and all w grease fittings. Works like new. Good luck

OP said his truck has Twin I-Beam suspension. There are no A-arms.

 

[CT8]

How long did the non greasable ones last?