How to protect Parkerized barrel

[2cool]

I have a new ASR carbine, the barrel is Parkerized. Come to find out it isn't corrosion resistant. What can I use to protect the steel from rusting?

 

[bunnspecial]

Parkerizing is a lot more corrosion resistant than other older finishes like bluing-that's why it was common on military guns and the like.

Treat it like a blue gun-keep it oiled and don't let it sit after a range trip. Unlike a blue gun, you don't have to get out your silicon cloth every time you handle it

 

[CT8]

oil or any kind or protectant. Parkerizing works pretty good if kept oiled.

 

[demarpaint]

I always wipe them down with a thin coat of Rem Oil or a similar product.

 

[billt460]

Initially soak it good with a medium to high viscosity oil. It's best if you can leave it soak well oiled overnight. Then blot up as much of the excess as you can. By soaking it and allowing it to set, the oil is allowed to seep into the Parkerizing and will better protect the metal underneath. Parkerizing works fairly well when it's well oiled. But left dry it offers little to no rust protection. It's basically designed to trap and hold oil near the surface of the metal.

The biggest problem when trying to remove excess oil from Parkerizing, is it attracts lint. A bit like trying to wipe sandpaper with a piece of flannel. What I found to work really well for blotting up excess oil from Parkerizing, is a well worn piece of leather chamois. The kind they use to dry cars with. You want to be sure to use one that is very stiff and dried out. Don't use them new because the leather contains Tannic Acid. But after they're well worn they make a perfect blotting cloth, and will soak up just enough of the excess oil. And do it without leaving lint all over your nice oiled gun. Depending on how humid it is where you live, will determine how much oil you want to leave, and how often you want to reapply it.

 

[ejes]

Parkarizing holds oil better than bluing; it sort of soaks in. I prefer Hornady One Shot, WD 40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor, or Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Thanks for bringing up the topic. I did not know that you can do this yourself until I did what I always do when something interesting pops up, go to the Internet.

 

[JHZR2]

Since its likely to touch my skin a lot of the time, I will use ballistol with great success. If not touchable in routine handling, I could use something else, but am partial to Ballistol anyway...

 

[bubbatime]

I've found that it's pretty robust. Oil the snot out of it when you get it, and you likely won't have any corrosion problems. Oil it once a year or so and it should be fine.

 

[Robenstein]

I tend to use something very thin so it really soaks in well. As mentioned, something like Rem Oil which is oil/teflon thinned WAY down with solvents will work well. It will penetrate and the solvents will flash off. Just repeat till it won't take any more and blot the excess.


Other good ones mentioned already for corrosion is the WD40 Specialist line, and although it is dubious as a lube, Froglube has done AWESOME in corrosion tests.

Another option if you don't mind the expense and have an applicator in the area is to get it cerakoted. Cerakote over parkerizing does pretty darn well.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Since its likely to touch my skin a lot of the time, I will use ballistol with great success. If not touchable in routine handling, I could use something else, but am partial to Ballistol anyway...


I've used Ballistol on all my various gun exteriors for many years now. Matters-not if it's metal, brass, wood, synthetic.....etc.....etc. It's medicinal smell evaporates in a matter of days.

 

[dwcopple]

use oil, not an all in one like ballistol or remoil (junk). The orange bottle of Hoppes (lube) works well as does 3in1 oil on a well used t-shirt rag.