Auto-Rx-Plus

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Just purchased a 2006 Saturn Vue, 3.5 V6 with 128,000 miles, no oil leaks. Replaced spark plugs and the old ones looked fine, however the PCV Valve was completely clogged. Engine doesn't look to bad from what I can see through the oil fill in the valve cover.
I have a new fill of 5w20 MaxLife and Bosch oil filter. Should I put Auto-Rx-Plus in with the MaxLife and if so how long should I leave the Auto-Rx in the crankcase? I only drive about 6,000 miles a year all short trips under 10 miles except for one 60 mile round trip a week.
Any expert advice from you Oil Gurus would be greatly appreciated.
smile.gif
 
There's some love/hate on ARX here and you'll get many opinions. I think it works as advertised; follow the ARX instructions and (if they are the same as when I used it awhile back) leave it in for 1500 miles, change oil and filter, and then perform another 1500 mile cycle, then a rinse. All these should be with a dino oil.
 
Save your money.

I have a bottle of auto-rx I need to sell locally. I used one bottle on my Sienna, never saw a difference.

Have you removed the valve cover to see what the engine looks like?
 
I would follow the directions on the Auto-Rx container. I think it works in some sludge situations and not in others.

It's never caused any damage that people have reported here.

But you need to pull the valve cover for two important reasons.

1) to see if you actually have sludge
2) because we like under valve cover pics
 
Try the Gumout and see if it works as compared the the questionable Auto RX. It seems many people that claimed how good it worked were comped for the good reviews.
 
AutoRX works for the piston rings and helps reducing blowby. Cleaning off heavily encased rocker arms or cams is not going to happen in 10k miles or so.
 
I say you skip adding any snake oil in there and just flush the engine with a few short interval oil changes to help remove some deposits that may be in the sump and then proceed with your favorite oil at the recommended interval. This is a sure way to NEVER experience any oil related engine failure. The recipe is simply, I'm not sure why it's so hard for some people to follow it.

If it was me that just bought a used vihicle with over 100k on it and the oil fill hole showed some build up, I would pour in a nice high mileage oil and run it for a few days and 100 miles or so and drain it. Follow up with another short interval of about 500 miles and call it a day. I guarantee both oil changes will have black oil, which cleaned up the internals. I bet the third oil change will result in clean looking oil on the dipstick for MUCH longer, before it will start to darken. Not that oil color matters much but you can't argue the fact of clean vs dirty oil.

With regular on time maintenance, that engine will run forever. You could technically not do anything to it at all and it will still run forever.
 
The problem is that Auto-RX is very slow which also means it is safe. In this world of instant results you'll just have to be patient. Auto-RX really works and cleans where nothing else will but again, it's very slow.

If you are not patient then don't use the product. It took a long time to gunk things up and it will take time to un-gunk things. You might only see results a bit after you've finished the process and you might have to repeat it. If you want instant results try a flush product and you will see results right away, results that will not include down behind the rings and in other hard to reach places. With the easy to get off stuff gone you can remove the valve cover(s) and be impressed. Taking the pistons out and the rings off to see results that really matter might be a bit more work.

Flushes are like Jack-in-the-Box and Auto-Rx is like a sit down meal. You pick.
 
The thing is, if you have a dirty engine and need to clean it out a bit, it doesn't make sense to do a cleaning regimen with flushes that will take many months and thousands of miles to make a difference. That's like going to the shower every day but only wash one leg. Then tomorrow wash another leg, then an arm the next day, so on and so forth until you wash all body parts. Seems like a silly way to get clean.

Of course it makes sense to dive in and shower all at once. So in this case, a powerful cleaner poured into the engine and idle it in the driveway for 5-10 mins to quickly clean up the engine internals seems more logical to me. The engine is instantly cleaner and hopefully running better with the piston rings sealing things better and a fresh, clean coat of oil covering all moving parts.

Seems like it would be less stressful for the engine as well. Idling for 10-15 mins and seeing improvements vs driving around for months with a whole bottle of cleaning additives scrubbing the internals all while having the removed gunk splash around for thousands of miles. I'd personally want to get that stuff outta there quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
The thing is, if you have a dirty engine and need to clean it out a bit, it doesn't make sense to do a cleaning regimen with flushes that will take many months and thousands of miles to make a difference. That's like going to the shower every day but only wash one leg. Then tomorrow wash another leg, then an arm the next day, so on and so forth until you wash all body parts. Seems like a silly way to get clean.

Of course it makes sense to dive in and shower all at once. So in this case, a powerful cleaner poured into the engine and idle it in the driveway for 5-10 mins to quickly clean up the engine internals seems more logical to me. The engine is instantly cleaner and hopefully running better with the piston rings sealing things better and a fresh, clean coat of oil covering all moving parts.

Seems like it would be less stressful for the engine as well. Idling for 10-15 mins and seeing improvements vs driving around for months with a whole bottle of cleaning additives scrubbing the internals all while having the removed gunk splash around for thousands of miles. I'd personally want to get that stuff outta there quickly.




And is running the risk of clogging your oil pickup worth that? Perhaps OP should read the threads where someone did exactly as you suggest and ended up hashing their engine.

Might you also suggest that he perform a high pressure flush of the transmission? Another quick fix on a high mileage vehicle that has been shown to be detrimental.

Although I agree that getting fresh oil throughout the engine is a good thing, a slow clean which will allow the filter to do its job -- and NOT clog the pickup (or any small passage) with globs of sludge that sluff off rapidly - is much safer.


Sorry but your shower analogy doesn't...hold water
grin.gif
Please allow me to retort: Your method is like taking a water cannon loaded with lye to your grandma because she smells funny. She could have had a nice easy shower, taken her time to get clean with some gentle moisturizing soap, but NO you had to send her flying with a 55000 psi blast of corrosive liquid.
 
Analogies are funny. Some are much funnier than others.

As a guy who has purchased several bottles of snake oil RX with absolutely no detectable results of any kind I say get thee some Kreen ASAP! We have used Kreen in several cars and only one didn't react positively and quickly. It clogs nothing, it works fast, some of the results are amazing in our experience.

Plus they have a real guarantee and honor it...
 
This is the Honda J35 Engine with no VCM, its a great engine with no major issues other than an undersized PCV system. Keep that replaced and you wont have any problems with this engine, nothing other than oil is needed. A good synthetic like PP or M1 every 5K for a couple of years will have it spotless with nothing to think about.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Artem
The thing is, if you have a dirty engine and need to clean it out a bit, it doesn't make sense to do a cleaning regimen with flushes that will take many months and thousands of miles to make a difference. That's like going to the shower every day but only wash one leg. Then tomorrow wash another leg, then an arm the next day, so on and so forth until you wash all body parts. Seems like a silly way to get clean.

Of course it makes sense to dive in and shower all at once. So in this case, a powerful cleaner poured into the engine and idle it in the driveway for 5-10 mins to quickly clean up the engine internals seems more logical to me. The engine is instantly cleaner and hopefully running better with the piston rings sealing things better and a fresh, clean coat of oil covering all moving parts.

Seems like it would be less stressful for the engine as well. Idling for 10-15 mins and seeing improvements vs driving around for months with a whole bottle of cleaning additives scrubbing the internals all while having the removed gunk splash around for thousands of miles. I'd personally want to get that stuff outta there quickly.




And is running the risk of clogging your oil pickup worth that? Perhaps OP should read the threads where someone did exactly as you suggest and ended up hashing their engine.

Might you also suggest that he perform a high pressure flush of the transmission? Another quick fix on a high mileage vehicle that has been shown to be detrimental.

Although I agree that getting fresh oil throughout the engine is a good thing, a slow clean which will allow the filter to do its job -- and NOT clog the pickup (or any small passage) with globs of sludge that sluff off rapidly - is much safer.


Sorry but your shower analogy doesn't...hold water
grin.gif
Please allow me to retort: Your method is like taking a water cannon loaded with lye to your grandma because she smells funny. She could have had a nice easy shower, taken her time to get clean with some gentle moisturizing soap, but NO you had to send her flying with a 55000 psi blast of corrosive liquid.


LOL. I don't see how idling the engine in the driveway for 10-15 mins while the cleaner does it's job can possibly ruin the block. The same can happen with ANY long term cleaner or even a high mileage oil alone without anything added. If there's chunks of sludge and crud in there, there's a possibility that it will break off and block an oil passage even on its own, with regular oil.

If the engine is that far gone and that dirty, why even bother cleaning anything? Just drive it as is and with normal maintenance, that sucker has the possibility to last another 100k easy even with the carbon build up inside the block.

Unless you have plans to keep the car for another 10-15 years and have the time and patience to do a slow clean up (hopefully) over the course of many many months and thousands of miles, why bother? Most run down cars only last a few years as beaters before something breaks that is worth more to fix then the rust bucket is worth and off to the junk yard it goes...
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Artem
The thing is, if you have a dirty engine and need to clean it out a bit, it doesn't make sense to do a cleaning regimen with flushes that will take many months and thousands of miles to make a difference. That's like going to the shower every day but only wash one leg. Then tomorrow wash another leg, then an arm the next day, so on and so forth until you wash all body parts. Seems like a silly way to get clean.

Of course it makes sense to dive in and shower all at once. So in this case, a powerful cleaner poured into the engine and idle it in the driveway for 5-10 mins to quickly clean up the engine internals seems more logical to me. The engine is instantly cleaner and hopefully running better with the piston rings sealing things better and a fresh, clean coat of oil covering all moving parts.

Seems like it would be less stressful for the engine as well. Idling for 10-15 mins and seeing improvements vs driving around for months with a whole bottle of cleaning additives scrubbing the internals all while having the removed gunk splash around for thousands of miles. I'd personally want to get that stuff outta there quickly.




And is running the risk of clogging your oil pickup worth that? Perhaps OP should read the threads where someone did exactly as you suggest and ended up hashing their engine.

Might you also suggest that he perform a high pressure flush of the transmission? Another quick fix on a high mileage vehicle that has been shown to be detrimental.

Although I agree that getting fresh oil throughout the engine is a good thing, a slow clean which will allow the filter to do its job -- and NOT clog the pickup (or any small passage) with globs of sludge that sluff off rapidly - is much safer.


Sorry but your shower analogy doesn't...hold water
grin.gif
Please allow me to retort: Your method is like taking a water cannon loaded with lye to your grandma because she smells funny. She could have had a nice easy shower, taken her time to get clean with some gentle moisturizing soap, but NO you had to send her flying with a 55000 psi blast of corrosive liquid.


LOL. I don't see how idling the engine in the driveway for 10-15 mins while the cleaner does it's job can possibly ruin the block. The same can happen with ANY long term cleaner or even a high mileage oil alone without anything added. If there's chunks of sludge and crud in there, there's a possibility that it will break off and block an oil passage even on its own, with regular oil.

If the engine is that far gone and that dirty, why even bother cleaning anything? Just drive it as is and with normal maintenance, that sucker has the possibility to last another 100k easy even with the carbon build up inside the block.

Unless you have plans to keep the car for another 10-15 years and have the time and patience to do a slow clean up (hopefully) over the course of many many months and thousands of miles, why bother? Most run down cars only last a few years as beaters before something breaks that is worth more to fix then the rust bucket is worth and off to the junk yard it goes...


x2.

If you want to use AutoRX, you don't want to use Maxlife as the oil.
Just used the cheapest possible good plain (not High mileage) Dino oil like Supertech or sometimes they have $2/quart oil sale.
 
The age for the slow and steady is behind. Nowadays you can make a sparkling clean (as new) engine in 1 hour, melting all sludge, dissolving and suspending all the dirt in an engine. Corrective Hyperflush is here, now.
 
I just recently got rid of my 2004 Vue with the Honda V6 with 200k miles. Engine is great. Also has a Honda trany which can be fickle so change the trany fluid often. I had no issues with my trany. You also need to replace the timing belt every 100k miles as it is an interference engine. If the belt breaks the valves will hit the pistons and big trouble. When your changing the timing belt, make sure to change all the associated pulleys, tensioner and the water pump. To access the water pump you must remove the timing belt so it make sense to do it all at once and get a coolant flush in the process. Rockauto has the best deals on timing belt kits. Make sure its been done already, if not you should do it soon. I did it myself, took 2 days. Also your supposed to adjust the valve lash on that engine, around the same time if I recall. Be prepared to replace front wheel bearings often which is a huge bear as they corrosion weld to the alum spindle. Suggest getting the best bearing available if you ever change it as it may last longer. Also the brakes and tires don't last long. The front strut mounts are garbage, from a Cavalier! If yours is AWD the drive shaft carrier bearing fails often and is a [censored] to fix. Other than that enjoy
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FranzX3M
When your changing the timing belt, make sure to change all the associated pulleys, tensioner and the water pump.


Why on earth would you ever suggest for someone to spend MORE MONEY on maintenance then is necessary?! Total cost of owning a vehicle is already Ridiculous as is. Besides, why fix what ain't broke anyway? I've NEVER heard anyone suggest to replace all pulleys while changing the accessory belt(s). I can't imagine trying to get a pulley puller into some of these tight engine compartment to pull them off. It may literally require an engine drop (most with the entire front subframe) just to "make sure to change all the associated pulleys" as you're suggesting, in what is otherwise a simple, laid back procedure of replacing a worn belt. I think it's absolutely absurd and is technically wasteful.

/ End Rant.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: FranzX3M
When your changing the timing belt, make sure to change all the associated pulleys, tensioner and the water pump.


Why on earth would you ever suggest for someone to spend MORE MONEY on maintenance then is necessary?! Total cost of owning a vehicle is already Ridiculous as is. Besides, why fix what ain't broke anyway? I've NEVER heard anyone suggest to replace all pulleys while changing the accessory belt(s). I can't imagine trying to get a pulley puller into some of these tight engine compartment to pull them off. It may literally require an engine drop (most with the entire front subframe) just to "make sure to change all the associated pulleys" as you're suggesting, in what is otherwise a simple, laid back procedure of replacing a worn belt. I think it's absolutely absurd and is technically wasteful.

/ End Rant.


Read again, post says TIMING belt and associated pulleys and tensioner. This is solid advise, it would be foolish to change a timing belt and leave on idler pulleys and tensioners that have over 100k on them.
 
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