Hot water heater question?

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So I subscribed to this thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4332224#Post4332224

Instead of me hijacking the thread, should better ask my questions here.

So I have this Ruud water heater from 2004, so far working like a champ.

I am curious if I should replace the Anode rod?

We have public 'treated' water and I drained the water heater like 4 years ago. Since then, no maintenance and never drained it because read that it's not worth it.

I want it to last for a bit, because it's a big one(75 gal) and also it's expensive.

Should I be replacing anode rod? Anything else I can do as a maintenance item on it? So far, have replaced TPRV and check it regularly too. I can see on the top, it has 4 holes, which hole would have access to the anode rod? I have contacted ruud, anyway I can get a user manual. Tried google, but no luck.

Thanks for the help.

 
I don't think replacing the rod will have any bearing on the longevity of the unit, that is rusting out/corroding from the bottom. Ave life is 8-12 years and you are at the end of the useful life. If me, well, I would start looking for a good deal on a water heater, sales etc, and be proactive on it. Nothing to lose to get free estimates now to see what it would cost and then look for sales and or when plumbers have slow times and will negotiate. As you know the most expensive time to replace is when it dies on you and you HAVE to get it replaced. Or know someone who can install a new one for you. Like car batteries, no matter what you do they go bad, just a matter of when.
 
Should you replace the Anode Rod ? All info on the Internet says YES.
Get an Owners Manual and see what it says.
The Anode Rod prevents the Tank insides from rusting. Watch videos on You-Tube.
if the tank is 'already' rusting, it may be too late

I wish I would have changed mine alot sooner.
Only way to tell its condition is to remove it and inspect.
While it's out, you may as well replace with a new one (like I will be doing).

Because everybody has different quality water, my Owners Manual says to inspect Yearly.
With having Municipal Water, I figure I could go longer (but not as long as I have).
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My Owners Manual also says to inspect / clean the burner.
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As far as draining the Tank, I have never done that.
I do drain 2 quarts out Monthly to get out any sediment that's on the bottom.
My Owners Manual says to do that.
 
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I'd say give it a shot - anode rods aren't that expensive.

In any case, I'd highly recommend a breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and cautiously remove the rod because it might be more disintegrated and break apart halfway.
 
Replace the heater, mine burst at 9 years and luckily we were home. had 12 inches of water in the basement and had to redo everything.
 
Originally Posted By: 2civics
I flush mine 2x a year. Where did you read not to flush it?


On some of the websites, I can try to find and link them up.
 
Originally Posted By: Spector
I don't think replacing the rod will have any bearing on the longevity of the unit, that is rusting out/corroding from the bottom. Ave life is 8-12 years and you are at the end of the useful life. If me, well, I would start looking for a good deal on a water heater, sales etc, and be proactive on it. Nothing to lose to get free estimates now to see what it would cost and then look for sales and or when plumbers have slow times and will negotiate. As you know the most expensive time to replace is when it dies on you and you HAVE to get it replaced. Or know someone who can install a new one for you. Like car batteries, no matter what you do they go bad, just a matter of when.



How come for some people it has lasted forever? But I can look into replacements too. It'll be easily north of $1k, I guess?
 
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
Should you replace the Anode Rod ? All info on the Internet says YES.
Get an Owners Manual and see what it says.
The Anode Rod prevents the Tank insides from rusting. Watch videos on You-Tube.
if the tank is 'already' rusting, it may be too late

I wish I would have changed mine alot sooner.
Only way to tell its condition is to remove it and inspect.
While it's out, you may as well replace with a new one (like I will be doing).

Because everybody has different quality water, my Owners Manual says to inspect Yearly.
With having Municipal Water, I figure I could go longer (but not as long as I have).
----------------------------------------------------------
My Owners Manual also says to inspect / clean the burner.
----------------------------------------------------------
As far as draining the Tank, I have never done that.
I do drain 2 quarts out Monthly to get out any sediment that's on the bottom.
My Owners Manual says to do that.


Thanks to you for posted the thread, one can learn everyday, so thanks again for asking this question.

I'll definitely give it a shot, it doesn't hurt to replace since it's cheap. I have municipal water and it's filtered one, I might be ok but will find out!

I tried to find the manual, but couldn't find it
frown.gif


How did you get yours? Please post back whatever you do with yours, as I'll be closely following your thread.
 
Originally Posted By: mrgrim
I'd say give it a shot - anode rods aren't that expensive.

In any case, I'd highly recommend a breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and cautiously remove the rod because it might be more disintegrated and break apart halfway.


Thanks, will do!
 
I am not sure if they carry the part you need, but give BoatZincs.com a try. Boats use all sorts of anodes of all sizes, and there is probably a cross reference. The E0 size with a very long anode is quite common. Give them a call, they are very helpful.
 
Another item: I have had two Bosch tankless water heaters. Yes, they do save a lot of energy in the long run. Yes, they can be a huge pain the [censored] to install. My first one was very unreliable ( Bosch 250 SX ) but I found out some info that this particular model had a high rate of lemons. After much complaining, I replaced it with a new Bosch Therm 500 which was higher efficiency and a 98% physically compatible unit, heavily discounted by Bosch due to my long running problems. It ran perfectly the very first time it was fired up.
If you are really handy with plumbing and gas, you could install it yourself but allow for plenty of time to do the physical planning. If you do not consider yourself handy, I would strongly advise against attempting to install a gas tankless water heater yourself- leave it to the pros.
 
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Read my reply in the other thread. At 13 years, it may be too late, but it really depends on the water in your area. You'll have a better idea once you take the rod out. It might also depend on how much hot water you use. I remember replacing 2 water heaters at the same time, one had a family of 6 in it, the other was just 2 people. The one with 6 people died after 4 years, the other one I think is still going strong at 7 years, I replaced the anode on that one a few years ago so hopefully it goes on for a lot longer. That could just be the luck of the draw though. If you look at the ones in the big box stores like Home Depot, those are aluminum and magnesium is better if you don't have water issues. Plus theirs is .7 inch and you can get .9 inch on line. Should last longer. Might be a wash with the shipping though for just one.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Read my reply in the other thread. At 13 years, it may be too late, but it really depends on the water in your area. You'll have a better idea once you take the rod out. It might also depend on how much hot water you use. I remember replacing 2 water heaters at the same time, one had a family of 6 in it, the other was just 2 people. The one with 6 people died after 4 years, the other one I think is still going strong at 7 years, I replaced the anode on that one a few years ago so hopefully it goes on for a lot longer. That could just be the luck of the draw though. If you look at the ones in the big box stores like Home Depot, those are aluminum and magnesium is better if you don't have water issues. Plus theirs is .7 inch and you can get .9 inch on line. Should last longer. Might be a wash with the shipping though for just one.


Thanks so much sir, looking at few of these:

https://www.comfortgurus.com/search?cont...;submit_search=

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-AP11525C-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod

I'll definitely give it a shot. I mean, worst case I won't be bale to remove it, then who cares I'll wait to just replace this water heater.

But best case, I might be able to extend the life of it
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
I'll be doing mine within the next Month.
Besides the You-Tube Videos, here's a couple links I based my decision on:

http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocument.aspx%3FID%3Daedbbc95-9a6b-4780-aa23-b0ed9abe41cd

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/anoderods.html


Thanks so much Sir, I appreciate it.

I am going to look at HD and similar to see what they have to offer, but I bet online is cheaper!
 
Imaverickfhs,

I went to Home Depot and they don't sell any. Don't know why.

I ordered mine (yesterday) from SupplyHouse.COM
The Magnesium seem to wear out quicker than Aluminum.
I bought the Magnesium figuring it will give better protection but may need to be changed 'sooner' in the future.
SKU SP8371B ...... $42.95

I didn't think it made any difference, but the one I ordered is made by Rheem (same as tank).
I will assume the quality will be all it's surpose to be.

Today I'm going to Harbor Freight to purchase their Electric Impact Wrench.
With Discount, it will cost $45 (better than paying a Plumber).
As a last resort, I would use a 4' cheater bar with Breaker Bar.

Either method I use, I know I will also need another person to keep the Tank from rotating.
 
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