Hot Water Heater - Anode Rod

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
838
Location
One Step Beyond
I would like to replace the Anode Rod in my Hot Water Tank without it turning into a nightmare.
For those who may not know, the Anode Rod will corrode so the Tank insides won't.

Water Facts:
* NO water softener system in house
* County (treated) water

Water Heater Facts
* Installed (myself) in Dec. 2006 (11 years ago)
* Natural Gas
* Rheem / 40 gallon

I watch on you-tube about the difficulty of removing these Anode Rods.
It seems you need a 4 ft. cheater bar.

I would buy a Segmented, Magnesium Rod.

Questions:
1) Anybody ever change theirs ?
2) Was it difficult ?
3) What condition was it in ?
4) How often do you change/check it ?

Thanks for any advise and have a great Weekend.
 
We replaced ours in an old heater at my old place. I think the heater was about 15 years old. The breaker bar was useless, we were on the verge of spinning the tank. Couple minutes scratching our heads when we realized there was a Harbor Freight nearby so we bought a $50 electric impact. We figured it stuff goes wrong the heater was old anyways. It took a while, but broke free. The rod was pretty much non-existent.
 
Originally Posted By: Delta
We replaced ours in an old heater at my old place. I think the heater was about 15 years old. The breaker bar was useless, we were on the verge of spinning the tank. Couple minutes scratching our heads when we realized there was a Harbor Freight nearby so we bought a $50 electric impact. We figured it stuff goes wrong the heater was old anyways. It took a while, but broke free. The rod was pretty much non-existent.


Wow! I installed a new tank (40G, NG) in 2008 (after original one burst after 13 years). My solution: I'm selling my house to downsize it and going with a Rheem Tankless (NG) system in the new home I'm about to start building. Problem solved (LOL!).
 
From what I've read about people trying to remove the anode road with a breaker bar or cheater pipe, you have to make sure that you don't break the supply lines when the tank starts to twist.

The electric impact sounds like an alternative. I would try to soak the top of the threads with penetrating fluid a few days beforehand if they are accessible.

If I recall on my old tank that nut on the rod was level with the top skin of the tank.

I've switched to a tankless water heater.
 
My dad had a commercial business with a 120 gallon heater. We changed the anode every 2 years since new, it came off without much effort. Water heater is 46 years old now. Still going. I've changed mine at my home every 2 years with pretty hard water the anode is about 1/3 eaten up. My heater is 16 years old now. Mine comes out pretty easy because i change it so often.
 
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork

Questions:
1) Anybody ever change theirs ?
2) Was it difficult ?
3) What condition was it in ?
4) How often do you change/check it ?



1. Yes.
2. Not at all.
3. Starting to deteriorate.
4. Every other time I clean the septic tank filter, so about every 5 years.

It's not difficult at all. I don't drain the water, and I've never had one that is so hard to get out that I'm concerned about the tank moving.
 
I used supplyhouse . com for a Mg anode. They were the lowest price. I noticed you mentioned segmented, I assume it is that because you have little clearance. A solid rod is cheaper, .900 x 44-3/8" Magnesium R-Tech Anode Rod, $12. I just cut off a foot to get it in the tank.
 
Looked into doing the same thing with ours.
2006 install, rheem 6 yr warranty.

Great tip on the impact wrench, I forgot I received one as an xmas gift.

My tip on penetrating fluid - I wouldn't use much more than vinegar. That is your hot water supply, and I wouldn't want PBlaster getting in it.

Please report back on how it goes - it might encourage/discourage me...
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Subscribed.

Just curious, what are the symptoms of rod going bad?


Inside rust/corrosion but you cannot see it.
It is something to replace every so often like oil in the car.

As to OP, yes, I have to use impact.
Make sure to put teflon tape on the new one.
Make sure you get the proper socket, I forgot the size but it is more than 1" (IIRC).

My water heater is in an enclosed space very close to the attic ladder.
So, I cut a small hole in the attic and use that to put in the Rod from above.
I used hole drill to make a nice hole and I can put back the cut piece to cover although nobody will see them anyway.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Subscribed.

Just curious, what are the symptoms of rod going bad?


Inside rust/corrosion but you cannot see it.
It is something to replace every so often like oil in the car.

As to OP, yes, I have to use impact.
Make sure to put teflon tape on the new one.
Make sure you get the proper socket, I forgot the size but it is more than 1" (IIRC).

My water heater is in an enclosed space very close to the attic ladder.
So, I cut a small hole in the attic and use that to put in the Rod from above.
I used hole drill to make a nice hole and I can put back the cut piece to cover although nobody will see them anyway.


FYI they sell flexible rods with chain links. I used one they go in real easy. My heater is in a closet.
 
I change anodes every three to five years. Write the date on the top of the WH with a sharpie. Use a large'ish dollop of Rectum Seal on the threads. Always comes right out. Mostly gone (well water).

Why buy a WH and go through all the hassles of installing when you can run one nearly for ever with some simple maintenance ...
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I could never understand why they make the threaded part so tight. It only needs to seal 20(?) psi.


Did you mean 20 psi? The TPR valve is set at 150 psi. If the plumbing system becomes "closed" somehow, pressures can exceed 100 lbs. due to expansion of cold water as it warms.

http://www.bradfordwhite.com/pressure-damaged-water-heaters-115 "A 40 gallon water heater with 80 PSI line pressure will build to a pressure of 145 PSI with a temperature increase of 16°F."
 
Originally Posted By: mehullica
My dad had a commercial business with a 120 gallon heater. We changed the anode every 2 years since new, it came off without much effort. Water heater is 46 years old now. Still going. I've changed mine at my home every 2 years with pretty hard water the anode is about 1/3 eaten up. My heater is 16 years old now. Mine comes out pretty easy because i change it so often.


If it's only 1/3 depleted each time, doesn't that mean you're changing too frequently?
 
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
My solution: I'm selling my house to downsize it and going with a Rheem Tankless (NG) system in the new home I'm about to start building. Problem solved (LOL!).


The anode rod maintenance might be solved, but another one may appear.
Have you read anything in the operator's manual about pumping a descaler through your tankless water heater?
Some manufacturers recommend it every year. If you don't, you could have enough scale buildup to make your tankless water heater fail.
That's actually more often than an anode rod replacement.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I change anodes every three to five years. Write the date on the top of the WH with a sharpie. Use a large'ish dollop of Rectum Seal on the threads. Always comes right out. Mostly gone (well water).

Why buy a WH and go through all the hassles of installing when you can run one nearly for ever with some simple maintenance ...


I follow the same regimen and write the dates on the side with a sharpie of anode changes and sediment drains.
 
IF you change it regularly, and it does it's job of sacrificial corroding instead of the insides of your tank, they come out pretty easily.

If you have neglected it and the fitting that holds the rod is now suffering corrosion from the inside it will be about as difficult as you might expect to remove, and chances are it's too late anyway.

Every water heater comes with instructions to change out the anode rod regularly. I'm sure you've all read them, right?

As I mentioned in another thread my water heater is now 37 years old. Yes, I change out the anode rod every three years (because there is still some material left at that age; you should check sooner and get a baseline based on your water quality).
 
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Subscribed.

Just curious, what are the symptoms of rod going bad?


Inside rust/corrosion but you cannot see it.
It is something to replace every so often like oil in the car.

As to OP, yes, I have to use impact.
Make sure to put teflon tape on the new one.
Make sure you get the proper socket, I forgot the size but it is more than 1" (IIRC).

My water heater is in an enclosed space very close to the attic ladder.
So, I cut a small hole in the attic and use that to put in the Rod from above.
I used hole drill to make a nice hole and I can put back the cut piece to cover although nobody will see them anyway.


If you use teflon tape only use it on the last half of the thread. In order for the electrode to work it must make a metal to metal contact with the metal of the threads of the tank so it makes electrical contact with the tank.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top