New owner of a used 2011 Crosstour with 3.5L which specifies 0w20. How important is sticking to this viscosity in my mild climate of North Carolina.
Honda 3.5L and 0w20
- Thread starter Brandon Gatz
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http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/31ZY2606.pdf
SAme (basically) engine in hi po operations specs 10W30.
SAme (basically) engine in hi po operations specs 10W30.
A spec sheet for a 2006 specced as a marine engine may not be a good reference source for a 2011 PC engine with VTEC and VCM.
If it were my car, and given where you live, I would consider running a synthetic 5W-30 and change it often assuming you have the VCM, no more than 5,000 mile OCI.
If it were my car, and given where you live, I would consider running a synthetic 5W-30 and change it often assuming you have the VCM, no more than 5,000 mile OCI.
I run it in my 2008 Pilot. Zero issues to date over the past 3 years of use.
I have an 04 Odyssey with J35 and 202k miles that specs 5w20, and I've ran M1 0w20 AFE for the last 100k (changed every 7500). Doesn't leak a drop and uses just under 1 qrt in 7500. No issues. Syn oil is too cheap not to use.
Mild climate? Dude, it was 5*F outside last month lol.
Mild climate? Dude, it was 5*F outside last month lol.
Mild compared to my climate, I have seen -40F on my car thermometer more than once.
5F is positively tropical. dude.
5F is positively tropical. dude.
I never put xw20 in any vcm engine especially this VCM II. 5w30 or 0w40 work fine and seem to help avoid the issue, a VCM muzzler is almost mandatory on these things.
These engines are not good using any benchmark. Full synthetic only and short OCI and regular PCV valve changes or they will get deposits and varnish like crazy clogging vital components. Honda is well aware of the problem and always has been but they tried to skate it.
They could easily turn off the VCM with a software update but they refuse because they would loose CAFE credits going back over a decade so they are married to it for better or worse and you are stuck with it unless you muzzle the thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VCMuzzler-II-for...W-/172249356977
http://www.autoblog.com/2013/10/23/honda-settles-class-action-lawsuit-engines/
http://www.alldata.com/blog-entry/easy-fix-honda-engine-noise
Edit: Don't compare this to a non VCM or VCM I engine (which was also trouble), the non VCM 3.5 was a great engine in fact one of the best V6 engines made.
These engines are not good using any benchmark. Full synthetic only and short OCI and regular PCV valve changes or they will get deposits and varnish like crazy clogging vital components. Honda is well aware of the problem and always has been but they tried to skate it.
They could easily turn off the VCM with a software update but they refuse because they would loose CAFE credits going back over a decade so they are married to it for better or worse and you are stuck with it unless you muzzle the thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VCMuzzler-II-for...W-/172249356977
http://www.autoblog.com/2013/10/23/honda-settles-class-action-lawsuit-engines/
http://www.alldata.com/blog-entry/easy-fix-honda-engine-noise
Edit: Don't compare this to a non VCM or VCM I engine (which was also trouble), the non VCM 3.5 was a great engine in fact one of the best V6 engines made.
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Ah. I forgot about VCM. That sucks.
My wife wants a newer Odyssey and i keep telling her the 04 is the best to have. It was build AFTER the the bad transmission Hondas but BEFORE the VCM.
And anything below +20*F is downright apocalyptic to Carolinians
My wife wants a newer Odyssey and i keep telling her the 04 is the best to have. It was build AFTER the the bad transmission Hondas but BEFORE the VCM.
And anything below +20*F is downright apocalyptic to Carolinians
different engine but same spec here...I just did a change to M1AFE 0w-30 in my K24Z1 and it seems to really like it. Mobil even gives it a thumbs-up on their oil selector.
Originally Posted By: Linctex
If max fuel economy is a concern, a full-synthetic 0W-20 would likely be the best route.
Otherwise, most any 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-30, etc. etc. will be just fine.
I don't think 10W-30 would hurt, but don't know if it will help either.
I wasn't meaning to sound like I was recommending 10W30...just the same kit in a harsher application specs it.
5W30/0W30 would be my go to...if 5F is part of the equation.
If max fuel economy is a concern, a full-synthetic 0W-20 would likely be the best route.
Otherwise, most any 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-30, etc. etc. will be just fine.
I don't think 10W-30 would hurt, but don't know if it will help either.
I wasn't meaning to sound like I was recommending 10W30...just the same kit in a harsher application specs it.
5W30/0W30 would be my go to...if 5F is part of the equation.
Originally Posted By: SpecM
Ah. I forgot about VCM. That sucks.
My wife wants a newer Odyssey and i keep telling her the 04 is the best to have. It was build AFTER the the bad transmission Hondas but BEFORE the VCM.
And anything below +20*F is downright apocalyptic to Carolinians
I don't follow the models anymore but the base models were available without VCM to 2010 IIRC. The EXL and Touring had the VCM. Strange the lower trim versions had the better engines while the most expensive had the red headed stepchild thrown in.
Ah. I forgot about VCM. That sucks.
My wife wants a newer Odyssey and i keep telling her the 04 is the best to have. It was build AFTER the the bad transmission Hondas but BEFORE the VCM.
And anything below +20*F is downright apocalyptic to Carolinians
I don't follow the models anymore but the base models were available without VCM to 2010 IIRC. The EXL and Touring had the VCM. Strange the lower trim versions had the better engines while the most expensive had the red headed stepchild thrown in.
I run 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra in all my Acura and Honda applications which includes a 3.5 and 3.0 J series. No issues with it up here in Toronto/Canada where it does get very cold at times.
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