Can anyone confirm this is just a bad battery?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Messages
1,256
I'm not too good with electronics but I had an issue today which I believe signals that my 3 year old battery needs to be replaced.

I was sitting in the local bus station parking lot waiting for a friend. I had the GPS still on and plugged in, my phone charging and the key turned to ACC while listening to music. Next thing I know the a dinging comes from the speakers and the dash display informs me that there was a charging system failure. Having had the same issue happen once after forgetting to unplug my OBD II bluetooth unit I was pretty sure the battery just needed a jump, so I managed to find someone with a jumpbox and got it started again.

However in the last hour after leaving my friends house I noticed that my coolant gauge didn't move off of cold over the course of the 15 minute drive and the rpms at 55mph were bouncing between 1500-2000 rpm every 10-15 seconds. When I noticed this I turned down the radio and listened for fluctuation in engine speed since I didn't notice a power surge and there was none. Then I turned on the heater and it worked just fine.

I'm assuming this just means my battery has a cell thats going bad?
 
Last edited:
Yes, the alternator is working because once started and driven the battery charges back up to around 14.5 volts. However if I leave the car sitting more than an hour, next time I go to start it the engine stumbles and the accompanying noise sounds like the starter struggling to turn over.
 
Use a multimeter and check the engine off battery voltage. If it reads less than 12v then you have a bum battery. Standing battery voltage should be 12.4-12.6v.

Any auto parts store will test a battery for free. Stop by one when you are running errands.
 
Dead cell.

Took it out for a drive, came back and after shutting off the vehicle I turned the key to ACC. Watched the dash display drop from 14.1 volts to 11.6 volts in under 30 seconds.
 
And it's a dealership AC Delco battery.

Back before I started taking classes the battery died and the resulting issue with lights, horn, and dash indicators flashing like mad. I freaked out and sent it to the dealer only to be told low voltage runs havok on the electrical system and charged $220.
 
3 yr old battery is likely to be shot... Especially if you a) drive almost ALL short trips b) never put it on a battery tender charger. Not calling you a bad car owner. It is quite typical of 95% of anyone in this country. And with 3 yrs worth of warranty given by almost all of the batteries sold in the last 6-8 yrs... It makes sense that your battery is no good.
 
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Does your dash have a voltmeter?


Not accurate at all. A fully charged battery should be atleast 12.6 voLts with a DVM. Load testing is best.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Does your dash have a voltmeter?


Not accurate at all. A fully charged battery should be atleast 12.6 voLts with a DVM. Load testing is best.

Doesnt need to be. The margin for error is over a volt.
 
Your battery has an internal short. You can verify by taking the battery out of the car and placing it on the garage floor by itself. Hook the charger up to it and give it a full charge. Disconnect the charger. If it doesn't hold a charge overnight, it's shorted out inside.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Your battery has an internal short. You can verify by taking the battery out of the car and placing it on the garage floor by itself. Hook the charger up to it and give it a full charge. Disconnect the charger. If it doesn't hold a charge overnight, it's shorted out inside.


An inexpensive hydrometer will show a shorted or dead cell.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Does your dash have a voltmeter?


Not accurate at all. A fully charged battery should be atleast 12.6 voLts with a DVM. Load testing is best.

Doesnt need to be. The margin for error is over a volt.


A battery is considered dead at 12v. Fully charged,greater than 12.6v. A few tenths is the difference between a partially charged and a fully charged battery.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Does your dash have a voltmeter?


Not accurate at all. A fully charged battery should be atleast 12.6 voLts with a DVM. Load testing is best.

Doesnt need to be. The margin for error is over a volt.


A battery is considered dead at 12v. Fully charged,greater than 12.6v. A few tenths is the difference between a partially charged and a fully charged battery.


Someone should tell hyundai that. the 2010 accent with smart charging never charges the battery over 12.3-12.4 volts. I can charge it up on a charger but the charging system is set low to save gas?? ugh.

p.s. before you say its the battery it did that with the OEM battery and 2 replacement batteries.
I moved the first replacement battery to the tractor after a year.. the second replacement does the same thing.

The same battery in the tractor holds at 12.6-12.7v depending on temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
And it's a dealership AC Delco battery.

Back before I started taking classes the battery died and the resulting issue with lights, horn, and dash indicators flashing like mad. I freaked out and sent it to the dealer only to be told low voltage runs havok on the electrical system and charged $220.
why wasn't the battery change then?On my wifes 2002 Ford F250 with the 7.3 engine the batteries have never lasted much over 3 years. Actually none of the Auto batteries seem to last as long as they used to
 
Yes they are trying to save gas with some of these charging algorithms, the best thing to do is charge it on the grid every month or so if possible. If not possible you'll just want to keep a jump box handy, heck maybe even a spare battery in the trunk and some tools!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top