Deka batteries = good?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I think EastPenn/Deka make very good batteries, I would always choose them over johnson controls.

The Deka intimidator is a very good 'budget' AGM, but it does not share the attributes of Non budget AGMS.

The Deka intimidator says to limit amperage to 30% of capacity( 30 amps per 100Ah capacity)
Its CCA figures are no better than a flooded starting battery of same size group, in many cases worse, as is th total capacity.
Its self discharge is not much better either.

As a starting battery never deeply cycled these detractions will never be noticed in most usages.

Still the Deka intimidator will benefit from an occassional top charge from a grid powered charger, as AGMS become more petulant and will lose capacity faster when they have to reside in the 90 to 95% charged range, compared to their much cheaper flooded brethern.

Odyssey and Northstar AGM$ are not budget AGMS, and they do have super low self discharge, very high CCA figures and can be deeply cycled and have a remarkable ability to still start an engine when very depleted and at cold temperatures

However when deeply cycled it is very important to high amp recharge them, and then to recharge them to a true 100% full to retain their full performance / attributes. The alternator/vehicle voltage regulator combo cannot be trusted to do this properly, and very few plug charging sources can meet a 40% charge rate, and fewer will also hold an absorption voltage of 14.4 to 14.7v for the 4 hours required after it is first attained at this 40% rate, or hold it until amps required to maintain absorption voltage decline to 0.5% of capacity.

That is how an AGM battery is determined to be full, NOT by a green light on a plug in charging source, but when the amps required to hold absorption voltage decrease to 0.5% of the standard 20 hour capacity figure.

Meaning a voltmeter and an ammeter and ideally a charging source which can maintain absorption voltage for the required duration are all present and in use, are required to prperly and fully charge these high$ agms when they are deeply cycled, inadvertently or not.

Sure these high$$ AGMS will last an OK lifespan if these rather stringent recharge requirements are not met, but one might not be getting their moneys worth from them, and they are a lot of money.

So when treated right they are an awesome battery, when treated marginally they are not all that great and perhaps not worth the expenditure over the les$er AGMS or a regular flooded starting battery.

Too often the rather ridiculous price of AGMS has the purchaser imbue their battery with super battery status, but no battery is immune to incomplete or chronic undercharging, and as always the worst battery kept fully charged will outlast the best battery chronically undercharged.

So without knowing how any given battery was treated during its lifespan, internet longevity reports, good or bad, are meaningless.

And one cannot simply look at voltage to determine how a battery is being treated. Voltage and amperage when charging is much much better. On a flooded battery the hydrometer is the battery polygraph. But voltage alone, reveals little unless it is watched like a hawk during all charging and discharging and the hawk develops a sense of where teh battery is, state of charge wise throughout its lifespan.

The following is some lawyer approved material mostly written by emotional overexcited marketers, but I think a few engineers got some input in there as well:

http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf
 
I'm kind of left wondering why there hasn't been a practical replacement for the 12V flooded lead-acid battery in ICE cars. I know hybrids and electrics now use NiMH and lithium rechargeables. I get that there's a big infrastructure and a resistance to change. However, it's a huge pain to recycle these things. The issue of providing enough current could be solved with capacitors.

I remember reading in engineering publications that there was a push for something like 40V electrical systems in cars to run things that would be less efficient at 12V.
 
Some of you are forgetting that this is not about replacing a starting battery. It's about replacing the boot-up battery in a Prius, in which the greatest challenge facing the 12-V battery is vampire current while the car is stopped. That's especially true if the car isn't driven long enough and often enough to replace the charge lost between trips, so the battery ends up chronically undercharged.
 
Now that you say it, I've been thinking about getting an AGM-aware battery charger like a Noco Genius or Battery Tender and giving that battery a float charge every month.
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
I'm kind of left wondering why there hasn't been a practical replacement for the 12V flooded lead-acid battery in ICE cars. I know hybrids and electrics now use NiMH and lithium rechargeables. I get that there's a big infrastructure and a resistance to change. However, it's a huge pain to recycle these things. The issue of providing enough current could be solved with capacitors.

I remember reading in engineering publications that there was a push for something like 40V electrical systems in cars to run things that would be less efficient at 12V.

JCI worked with GM to create a 48V battery - it's used for their BAS "hybrids". Mercedes is now using a Li-Ion/LiPo battery for their AMG cars and auto stop/start systems are pushing demand for AGMs.
 
Originally Posted By: y_p_w

I remember reading in engineering publications that there was a push for something like 40V electrical systems in cars to run things that would be less efficient at 12V.


That was "news" 16 years ago.
New cars were supposed to start using 48 volt systems.
Wonder what happened......
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: y_p_w

I remember reading in engineering publications that there was a push for something like 40V electrical systems in cars to run things that would be less efficient at 12V.


That was "news" 16 years ago.
New cars were supposed to start using 48 volt systems.
Wonder what happened......


The Bentley Bentayga uses a 48V system.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Some of you are forgetting that this is not about replacing a starting battery. It's about replacing the boot-up battery in a Prius, in which the greatest challenge facing the 12-V battery is vampire current while the car is stopped. That's especially true if the car isn't driven long enough and often enough to replace the charge lost between trips, so the battery ends up chronically undercharged.


And it is a small battery with JIS terminals. It is basically a GR51 battery as used in some Hondas but with the JIS terminals - I wasn't even aware Deka made the correct battery, though by changing the cables people use a regular GR51. If the car is an earlier car or a G2 with low options the battery can be even smaller than a GR51

The battery that Toyota is selling is a GS Yuasa rated at 325CCA, 45Ah@20hr and the true start label carries an RC of 67. The Optima is a yellow top rated at 425CCA, 38AH and 66RC, though mine when new exceeded that on a Solar tester.
 
What about Duracell car batteries that are MADE by East Penn Deka?

Priced at Sams wholesale for the AGM H7 167ish bucks.

Good Deka quality or not?
 
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
What about Duracell car batteries that are MADE by East Penn Deka?

Priced at Sams wholesale for the AGM H7 167ish bucks.

Good Deka quality or not?


As solid as any other East Penn.

Available at Sam's and Batteries Plus, they're the best balance of price and availability you can find for an East Penn/Deka. Second choice would be Napa, but they're a little more expensive.

The label is the only difference, near as I can tell.
 
Oreilly is also Deka. I used one on a diesel garden tractor for about 6 years. Size 51 IIRC. Common Honda size.

I believe AAP is Deka for at least some sizes or depending on the region. I was at a huge car show in Ohio last year and saw an AAP battery (Autocraft) dated 6/16 that was a Deka. They are easily identified by their oval-ish side vent holes. Locally, I believe they are or use to be JCI.

Only battery I bought from AAP was for her Volvo and I have no clue what it is. Very odd thing with a vent/ drain hole that attaches to a hose and runs through the floor of the trunk.
 
Auto Value (formerly Federated Auto parts) carry Deka batteries, got one for the XJ for a $100 a few weeks ago. Seems good! Have AGM Deka made batteries in the LR3 and Liberty too.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
What about Duracell car batteries that are MADE by East Penn Deka?

Priced at Sams wholesale for the AGM H7 167ish bucks.

Good Deka quality or not?


Yes, good quality. I've been using them for a few years now in my vehicles and tractor.
 
I have heard plenty of negative things about East Penn Deka batteries. Generally from folks that purchased from big box stores or auto part stores that do not properly care for their inventory. This past spring (2016) East Penn had an issue where they took their batteries off their initial charge cycle too early leaving the batteries with really low voltages within 10-20 days of leaving the factory. We are talking 11.8 to 12.3V ... normal voltage should be 12.7-13.0V depending on manufacturer. But with that said, once we charged them, those low voltage batteries load tested fine. But they never really seemed to maintain a higher voltage and hung out around 12.4 to 12.7V which is atypical.

Most of our work is in the ETX motorcycle line from East Penn. The East Penn is a solid American brand with decent cost posts. For the larger automotive batteries I have really come to love the Northstar batteries. These pure lead AGM batteries hold their voltage well and have strong CCA, RC and AH numbers. Perhaps the best AGM battery ever made.
 
A North Star agm 94R for my ram 1/2 ton should last 10yrs with a price tag of THREE HUNDRED AND twenty four dollars.


Are they really worth it?
The CA AND CCA is astoundingly high which is great.
 
I have a group 27 Northstar AGM that I deeply cycle regularly overnight, and recharge properly with 3 different charging sources, all of which have adjustable voltage setpoints.
It is now 38 months old, and has ~465 deep cycles on it.

Many of these deep cycles, about 4 or 5 dozen are well below 50% state of charge. Several hundred are to 50%, a hundresd or to to 65% or so, and the rest are to 80% or less depth of discharge.

It is rated at 90Amp hour capacity, and 930CCA. I can take 65 amp hours from it and it easily starts my engine. I can barely tell that it cranks any slower when it is depleted to this very low level, which I find astounding after monitoring the life and times of many batteries with the tools and interest to do so.

Having cycled many batteries to death over the years, none have even come close to the ability of this Northstar AGM.

When it was new, its ability to fire my engine to life was scary fast and violent.

Now at 465 deep cycles and 38 months of use, it has lost some of that violent fast engine cranking Ooomph, but is by no means slow.

The Key to keeping any Lead acid battery happy is a proper recharge after any depletion of it

If one simply thinks a high $$ AGM battery is immune to being kept at partial state of charge, then they are wasting their money.

While the inability to stick a hydrometer into the cells and take specific gravity readings makes it harder to determine when the battery is fully charged, an Ammeter and a voltmeter make it easy.

When the Northstar AGM battery is brought to and held at the proper Absorption voltage( 14.46v @77f), and when amperage tapers to 0.5% of the capacity( 20 hour rate,screw RC ratings) the battery can be considered fully charged. The amps will actually taper to near zero with enought time.

These thin plate pure lead AGMS need to be high amp recharged when deeply cycled. grandpa's put it on a tricke charger recommendation which has been passed down through the generations on these AGMS does not apply. AGMS can be tickled to death with too little charging current when deeply cycled.

A few weeks ago my 90AH AGM battery accepted 65 amps for nearly a half hour before reaching absorption voltage.

I can't say that someone should buy one of these as a Starting battery, unless they simply want bragging rights. But if someone wants an extremely capacble battery, for bragging rights, the Odyssey or Northstar are downright impressive.

BUT they have to be recharged fully, and at a high rate when they are deeply cycled, inadvertently or not.

The problem, in an automotive application, is the vehicle's voltage regulator. It will not seek and hold 14.4 to 14.7 volts, and it will not hold it for the subsequent 4 hours required after attaining it, to reach full charge after a deep cycle, and this is very important to get good to great performance from them. It is a prerequisite.

It is also not easy to achieve a high amp recharge or find a automatic charging source which can meet these requirements.

It is ONLY because I can achieve these rather specific recharge requirements that I have achieved such impressive performance from a Northstar AGM.

If I could not, No way would I spend 320$ on a AGM battery, but since I can it it is by far the best lead acid battery I have ever used.

Its full charge resting voltage is 13.06v

Northstar Documentation leaves a lot to be desired, but Odyssey is more detailed. As the two manufacturers make many of the same performance claims I have largely been using Odyssey charge recommendations on my Northstar.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM-002_1214.pdf

If the battery is deeply cycled, Odyssey says to apply no less than a 40% charging rate. 40 amps for their group 31 pc2150 100AH agm battery until 14.7v is achieved at the battery terminals, at a battery temperature of 77F, then hold 14.7v for 4 more hours.

One does not need to make the battery 77f for proper recharging, I include the temperature as proper absorption and float voltage is temperature dependent and 14.7v at 77F is what Odyssey recommends, high battery temperatures should lower voltagr, lower battery temps require higher voltages.

No Automotive vehicle regulator, is going to seek 14.7v then hold it for 4 more hours, and the 100% recharge should not occur in stages, but all in one cycle until full.

While the 4 hour figure is written, the time it takes for amps to taper to 0.5% of capacity at absorption voltage increases as the battery ages.

Also as the battery ages, when rechargin at a high rate, it will reach absorption voltage earlier using less amperage.

So at 465 deep cycles, I have three yardsticks to be able to see that the battery is indeed losing performance.

1. it has lost some of the violently fast engine cranking ability
2. When high amp recharging, it rises to absorption voltage faster at lesser amperages than when it was new
3. When holding absorption voltage during recharge, it now takes about 5.5 hours instead of the 4 hours it took when it was new, for amps to taper to 0.5% of capacity. With many cycles accuulated since the last true full charge, or if the recharge was much slower, then this time has taken as long as 14 hours, but after the true full charge, performance that next cycle returns.

Very surprisingly, When I deeply cycle it, the voltage it maintains during discharge, with a certain amount of AMP hours removed, under X amount of amperage load, the battery performs as it did when new.

Every other battery I have cycled to death, the voltage fell faster and faster as the battery aged when the loads for the AH removed were compared and observed.

If not for the 3 yardssticks above, I would be able to falsly claim that this battery is just like new. Which of course would be impossible. Not at this age and this number of deep cycles.

Its really all about a full and proper recharge.

One other thing to note, is while the fully charged resting voltage is now 13.06v, when it was new, I could not get it to rest fully charged above 12.8v, until I deeply cycled it and then high amp recharged it until full. So I believe somebody dropping one of these TPPL agms into their vehicle and never deep cycling it nor recharging it at a high rate until amps taper to 0.5% at the correct temperature adjusted absorption voltage, I do not believe their battery will be performing to its full capability.

One of these high$$ AGMS would be a waste of money if the user could not properly recharge it, at least occassionally, in my opinion. Expecting the vehicle's voltage regulator and alternator to achieve the proper recharge after a deep cycle, inadvertant or not, is extremly ignorant. Also factor in the time required. One might be able to achieve 40 to 80% carged in less than an hour, but 80% to 100% basically takes no less than 3.5 hours, and that is under ideal absorption voltages, which ones vehicle has no hope of maintaining, even if driven for those 4.5 hours.

But If kept fully charged and never deeply cycled, but for that initial break in deep cycle, it should be an impressive bragging rights battery that could yield that extra Ooomph to start a engine when super cold after an inadvertent deep discharge.

But it is not immune to chronic undercharging, it is not immune to high vehicle parasitic loads, and is likely much much less tolerant than a much cheaper battery to improper charging, especially when deeply cycled, inadvertently or not.

Keep that in mind.

Lead acid batery longevity is directly related to how it is treated. Those variables are more important than who made it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top