My 87 Toy truck has a spark plug that pretty much is welded in there. I tried to remove that plug but couldn't, not even with a 3 foot breaker bar on the ratchet. I almost put my weight on it but didn't,since I did not have the repair kit. Is it an easy thing to do? Here's the plug specs according to O'Reilly's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search...amp;make=Toyota . This is the kit that I think I need. Is this the kit I need? Thanks
Ever fix a stripped spark plug hole?
- Thread starter daves66nova
- Start date
- Status
I had to time-sert #2 on my '87 BMW. When I went to remove the plug it turned real easy but didn't come out... Thanks, previous owner!
50-50 mix some acetone and ATF and let that soak on the plug for a day before you try to remove it again. You can also run the engine for a few minutes and then hit the plug with some CRC freeze off. Instead of using progressive force, give the handle of your breaker bar a couple of smart raps with a hammer.
If it's stuck, you probably still have threads.
50-50 mix some acetone and ATF and let that soak on the plug for a day before you try to remove it again. You can also run the engine for a few minutes and then hit the plug with some CRC freeze off. Instead of using progressive force, give the handle of your breaker bar a couple of smart raps with a hammer.
If it's stuck, you probably still have threads.
Since the damage may not have been done- I suggest going to a professional. I bet he could remove it with his special assortment of tools.
Let it idle. Turn off. Ensure engine isn't not.
Spray with Aero Kroil
Spray with Aero Kroil
An impact is less likely to snap a bolt or spark plug than Superman force. I would also try PB-Blaster before you try and remove it.
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
Last edited:
Pretty much what Roofless said. Bring the engine close to operating temp, shut it off and put some kroil, liquid wrench, etc at the plugs base, take canned air but turn the can upside down and blast the metal part of the plug for about half a cans worth, the plastic wand will get it right where you need it.
Repeat then immediately using an old ratchet hit it with short sharp raps with a dead blow hammer. Don't beat the $hit out of it, short sharp raps and patience is all it needs. Chase the threads before installing the new ones with Never Seize.
Repeat then immediately using an old ratchet hit it with short sharp raps with a dead blow hammer. Don't beat the $hit out of it, short sharp raps and patience is all it needs. Chase the threads before installing the new ones with Never Seize.
Originally Posted By: Donald
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
Hook the hose of a shop vac to the exhaust (blow) port, then tape it well to the tailpipe. Rotate the engine so the exhaust valve on that cylinder opens, and the chips will all blow back out of the hole & none will fall in.
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
Hook the hose of a shop vac to the exhaust (blow) port, then tape it well to the tailpipe. Rotate the engine so the exhaust valve on that cylinder opens, and the chips will all blow back out of the hole & none will fall in.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If that spark plug is still working, leave it alone! I know of nobody who intentionally strips spark plug threads just because they feel like doing it.
Yes. Plugs only need to be changed at 100k mi intervals. If pressed, they could survive the life of the engine. The gap will wear larger but hei systems can fire across some large gaps.
If that spark plug is still working, leave it alone! I know of nobody who intentionally strips spark plug threads just because they feel like doing it.
Yes. Plugs only need to be changed at 100k mi intervals. If pressed, they could survive the life of the engine. The gap will wear larger but hei systems can fire across some large gaps.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If that spark plug is still working, leave it alone! I know of nobody who intentionally strips spark plug threads just because they feel like doing it.
Yes. Plugs only need to be changed at 100k mi intervals. If pressed, they could survive the life of the engine. The gap will wear larger but hei systems can fire across some large gaps.
100k miles change interval for a 1987 year carbed engine?!?
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If that spark plug is still working, leave it alone! I know of nobody who intentionally strips spark plug threads just because they feel like doing it.
Yes. Plugs only need to be changed at 100k mi intervals. If pressed, they could survive the life of the engine. The gap will wear larger but hei systems can fire across some large gaps.
100k miles change interval for a 1987 year carbed engine?!?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The best way to get it out without breaking/stripping it is using an impact on it after letting it soak in some penetrating fluid.
I have done a lot of Kent engines over the years that had the plug broke off by someone using a impact, at that point the head has to come off.
A small low power rattler might be fine but a high powered impact can do a lot of damage on an aluminum head. IMO a little finessed brutality does better.
A small low power rattler might be fine but a high powered impact can do a lot of damage on an aluminum head. IMO a little finessed brutality does better.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Trav
I have done a lot of Kent engines over the years that had the plug broke off by someone using a impact, at that point the head has to come off.
A small low power rattler might be fine but a high powered impact can do a lot of damage on an aluminum head. IMO a little finessed brutality does better.
Yeah, I wasn't thinking like a big IR or anything but probably should have clarified that
I have done a lot of Kent engines over the years that had the plug broke off by someone using a impact, at that point the head has to come off.
A small low power rattler might be fine but a high powered impact can do a lot of damage on an aluminum head. IMO a little finessed brutality does better.
Yeah, I wasn't thinking like a big IR or anything but probably should have clarified that
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You do all that only after you have determined that the plug is dead. If it is stuck and still functioning why in the world do you want to invite trouble?
Do you take shortcuts in all aspects of your life?
Or do you just suggest that others take shortcuts regarding vehicle maintenance on a vehicle maintenance website?
If his plugs are due for a change and one is stuck now, it isn't going to be less stuck later when "the plug is dead." Maybe he has the time and inclination to properly deal with it now. Or would you rather he wait until the bed is full, he's 20 miles from home, it's raining, and he starts running on three cylinders? Would THAT be a better time to perform routine maintenance?
You do all that only after you have determined that the plug is dead. If it is stuck and still functioning why in the world do you want to invite trouble?
Do you take shortcuts in all aspects of your life?
Or do you just suggest that others take shortcuts regarding vehicle maintenance on a vehicle maintenance website?
If his plugs are due for a change and one is stuck now, it isn't going to be less stuck later when "the plug is dead." Maybe he has the time and inclination to properly deal with it now. Or would you rather he wait until the bed is full, he's 20 miles from home, it's raining, and he starts running on three cylinders? Would THAT be a better time to perform routine maintenance?
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You do all that only after you have determined that the plug is dead. If it is stuck and still functioning why in the world do you want to invite trouble?
WHY?!? Because gas mileage would go down, emissions will probably be higher when I go for a smog test,and it will probably fail,then it would probably be classified as a gross polluter and then I would have to go to a state smog inspection now and take time off of working to verify that it passes ,AFTER i had to replace the bad spark plug. A lot of time and money spent, just to have it "still functioning", when all this time I could just take it out,rethread it,and insert a brand new plug!
You do all that only after you have determined that the plug is dead. If it is stuck and still functioning why in the world do you want to invite trouble?
WHY?!? Because gas mileage would go down, emissions will probably be higher when I go for a smog test,and it will probably fail,then it would probably be classified as a gross polluter and then I would have to go to a state smog inspection now and take time off of working to verify that it passes ,AFTER i had to replace the bad spark plug. A lot of time and money spent, just to have it "still functioning", when all this time I could just take it out,rethread it,and insert a brand new plug!
Last edited:
I never do any maintenance if there is more than 50% chance that things would get worse than I start from.
If this is the first time you are going to fix the stripped threads in a spark plug hole, in my opinion you are making a mistake.
If this is the first time you are going to fix the stripped threads in a spark plug hole, in my opinion you are making a mistake.
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Donald
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
Hook the hose of a shop vac to the exhaust (blow) port, then tape it well to the tailpipe. Rotate the engine so the exhaust valve on that cylinder opens, and the chips will all blow back out of the hole & none will fall in.
Clever.
Originally Posted By: Donald
A Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap the hole which will get metal chips in the cylinder. Most will blow out but it would be best with head off.
Hook the hose of a shop vac to the exhaust (blow) port, then tape it well to the tailpipe. Rotate the engine so the exhaust valve on that cylinder opens, and the chips will all blow back out of the hole & none will fall in.
Clever.
- Status
Similar threads
